rev. 1/18/08
Calaveras Domes rock climbing


Ghetto Wall  (approach from above, down left side of wall)
topo: Felton  (needs directions to top of crag)

1. Shattered Sole 5.9 *, pro to 3", 75', up and left from other routes,
    visible NW from approach gully.
2. Ghetto B 5.10c R, 3x, small pro at horizontal crack (cams + Lowe Balls)
3. Ghetto C 5.10a, 3x, small pro
4. Ghetto C right start 5.6?, 3x, small pro
5. Bitch Botch the Bolt 5.9, 2x, small pro
6. Guy-N-I 5.8, 3x
7. In-Out/Up-Down 5.8, 3x, 2p (2 pitches), one 1.5-2" piece for p2

Sargent Rock
topo: Smith/CC

8. finger crack 5.11c/d *, finger crack in 30' 100-degree boulder,
   200' below Sargent Rock
9. R-diagonalling 5.11+?, 1x, 1fp (fixed pin), 2x anch., 100' L of Starting Line
10. Starting Line 5.11c
11. Sargent flake L side 5.7, bolts on top now?, 30' high
12. Sargent flake R side 5.5
13. Panic at the Pumps 5.10a *, hand traverse, some fist

Silver Streak Slab
Approach:  cross aqueduct on wooden bridge left of center.
Descent from top right side:  105?/125?' rappel, 165' rappel.
topo: Smith/RF

14. SS V 5.9+, 4x
15. SS W 5.10c, 6x
16. Riptide 5.10b, 2p, small wires, Friends #1-3, 1x on p2
17. SS U 5.10a, 5x
18. SS Y 5.10a, 7x, small to medium cam for initial bulge or clip 2nd x of Z
19. SS Z 5.10d, 9x
20. Captain's Paradise var. 5.10c, 1x, wires, 2fp, stays in corner
21. Captain's Paradise 5.9, 3x, wires
22. On the Beach 5.9, 4x, 2p, starting from upper ramp
23. Silver Streak 5.8, 4x, 2p, starting from upper ramp
24. SS H 5.9+, 4x, up lower slab to start of Captain's Paradise
25. Hang Nail 5.9, 1x
26. Fickle Finger Crack var. 5.10b R
27. Fickle Finger Crack 5.9, 2p to upper ramp
28. Get Over It 5.10b, 4x, ("P" on topo)
29. Sendero Blanco 5.10d, 8x, white streak, ("Q" on topo)
30. Silver Streak direct start 5.10a, 2x
31. SS T 5.10d, 6x
32. SS S 5.8, climb under right-facing flake, 2p
33. SS R 5.10?, bolts to flake
34. Picolo Pete 5.10?, ?x, right of the other climbs

Hammer Dome
topo: Smith Gulley Cat to Wings and Stings

35. Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun 5.11 *, 3p, 20x replaced
    p1: 5.11 with 5.10a R mantle (25' out), p2: 5.10 2x, p3: 5.9 1x
36. Welcome to My Nightmare 5.11b, Friends at roof, 13x replaced
37. Stage Fright 5.9 *, poison oak?, 3-4p, first 2p *
38. Travelin' Man 5.10d, 3p, p1: 5.10d 6x, RPs, Friends #2,3, p2: 5.9 3x, ...
39. Corn Cob (aka Gully Cat) 5.8, 4p
40. Pressure Wave 5.10c, 3p, p1: 7x, p2: 5x, p3: 6x
41. Gemini Cracks 5.8 *, 3-5p
42. Gemini flake var. 5.8/9, p2
43. Gemini direct start
44. Smoke Screen 5.10c *, 5-6p, p1: 5.10a 2x, p2: 5.10c 7x, p3: 5.10a 3x, ...
45. Itsy Bitsy Variation 5.10a, 4x, p7 added to Smoke Screen
46. Free Wheelin' 5.10c, 3x, small wires, 1" cam, joins Smoke Screen
47. Bad News 5.11a, 1x, 165+', best belay at tree
48. Good News 5.10 ?
49. Too Bad 5.11a, __x
50. Red Eye Express 5.10a
51. Wings and Stings 5.7 *, 3-5p
52. "death route" 5.10c R
53. Razor Face 5.10b, 3p, p1: 4 #4 Friends, p2: 5.10b, 3x, wires
54. Tom Slick 5.10a, 2p, 2x
55. Psycho Killer 5.11a, 3p, p1: Sea of Holes, p2: 5.10d thin, p3: 5.11a, 3x
56. Sea of Holes 5.10a *, 4p, new 5.10c? crux at 2nd bolt of p2 (broken flake)
57. new route(s?) 5.10 ?

Quarry

58. Quarry thin crack 5.11c/d tr, 2 ropes, middle of central buttress

Calaveras Dome
topo: Smith left side overview, King of Fools
topo: Smith War Lord, Rainbow's End, Rastaman Vibrations

59. King of Fools 5.8 A4, ~10p, steep nailing for the first few
pitches.  The traverse through the big arch is spectacular - probably a lot
like the KB traverse on Iron Hawk before it got beat out from lots of
ascents.  There is some free climbing and walking up ramps higher on the
wall, with aid in between.  There is a sort of heads-up pitch midway on the
wall, with some hard aid above one of the ramps.  Shares the last pitch
and a half with Banzai.
60. Fine Line 5.11, vertical dike, protrudes 4-5", bolted
61. Totally Buzzed 5.9, LFC
62. Banzai V 5.10 A3, 10p
 topo: Bindner
63. arch 5.11a?
64. War Lord p1 5.10b, 1x, face past bolt to left-facing corner
65. War Lord (full) 5.10b A4, 9p
66. Rainbow center 5.10c, left facing flake
67. Rainbow's End p1 5.10d, thin
68. Rainbow's End p1-3 5.11a *, 3p
  p1: 5.10d thin
  p2: 5.10d nice left leaning arch, squeeze at end
  p3: 5.11a severely left leaning arch, squeeze at start, to thin undercling
69. Rainbow's End (full) 5.11+? *, 5p, progressively harder pitches
70. Trick of the Tail
71. Carville's Carnage pr., overhanging gold wall above arch
72. rivets
73. knobs 5.10?, __x
74. Hyenas p1 5.10b
75. Laughing Hyenas 5.11c, 2p?
76. Rastaman Vibrations 5.12b A1 *, 14p, some are 5.11
77. Block Head 5.9 *
78. Silk Road p1 5.10c
79. Silk Road start 5.11, 2p
80. face R of Silk Road p1 5.10?, __x
81. Hightimes 5.10d *, 14p, starts with p1 of Sands of Time,
then up a series of left facing corners.  At the top of p8
in the topo, Hightimes goes to the right, and the Silk Road p9-11
variation goes up the thin left facing corner.
 topo: Cottrell/CC with Silk Road variations
82. Silk Road p9-11 var. 5.10d, var. to Hightimes
83. Silk Road p12 var. 5.10+, 2x
84. Silk Road p13 var. 5.12, thin crack/groove
85. Karakoram Highway 5.11, 4p, left finish to Hightimes,
joins last 3p of Rastaman Vibrations
86. Spice, short route between Silk Road and Sands of Time
87. Sands of Time 5.10a *, 12p
 topo: Smith/CC Sands of Time, Time Traveler
88. right wall crack 5.10?, crack on right wall of Sands of Time corner
89. Time Traveler 5.10b, 3p var. start to Sands of Time
90. Calaveras Dreamin' (aka Green Sponge) 5.11b *, 12p
 topo: Fox
91. Tsunami 5.11c *, 6p
92. Tits on a Ritz 5.10c, 8x
93. Shakin' All Over 5.12a *, 12p
94. Mad World, starts off upper ramp, L of Vaya Con Pollos
95. Wall of the Worlds (aka War of the Walls) 5.10c *, 11p
 topo: Smith
96. WotW p1 var. 5.11, thin
97. Vaya Con Pollos 5.11 *, branches left from p4 of Wall of the Worlds,
  steep dike with knobs
98. Lowe/Jones Variation 5.8 ?, leaves WotW in middle of p8, goes right
99. Fist Fight 5.10b, 4p, crux fist in RFC
100. Medicine Man 5.12d or 5.11 A0 *, 2+p, bolted face right of WotW
101. Fist Fight p1-p2 5.7, straight-in crack
102. Fist Fight var. start 5.7, RFC
103. Voton's Staircase 5.10c, 2p, p2: arch with gear to 2"
 topo: Smith Voton's Staircase, Beacons, Thunderbolt
104. Beacons from Mars 5.10d *, 9p
105. Beacons from Mars p1 5.10c
106. Sole Sacrifice 5.11a, 3p
107. Sole Sacrifice p1 5.10b
108. After the Gold Rush 5.10c, 3p, goes L, crossing Sole Sac. and Beacons
109. After the Gold Rush p1 5.10a
110. Bad Company 5.12a *, 7p, straight up, 11a, 11a, 10b, 12a, 10d, 11c, 5.9
111. Thunderbolt 5.10b *, 3p, dike on R margin of slab, 10x replaced
112. Old Smokey 5.9 *, 9p, gear to 2.5", first 2 belays replaced
 topo: Smith/RF/CC
113. Agent Orange 5.10d, traverses R to 1x, then up and L; joins Old Smokey p1

Hidden Wall  (5400', closed for bird nesting January 1 - June 30)
approach driving directions
topo: Scott

114. Haunt of the Grizzly 5.12a, bolted crack past roof
115. Loaded for Bear 5.13a, 3p
  p1: 5.11d, thin corner crack to roof, mixed bolts and gear.
  p2: 5.13a, overhanging, left-leaning corner.  Technical liebacking until
      the crack pinches down, then a sequential arete.
  p3: 5.12a, consistently thin corner, mixed bolts and gear.
 p1 was originally climbed free as "Out of Sight", 5.10.
 Perhaps it ended below the roof at that time, or it may have gone up
 a different corner nearby.
116. Quiet Mind 5.12c
117. Treasure Chest gully 5.4?, approach gully with fixed ropes

Hidden Wall - Center
Start the following routes by scrambling up from the Quiet Mind tree and
traversing right, or traverse left from the approach gully with fixed ropes:

118. pr., probably 5.13b
119. Gold Finger 5.12d, same start, right finish over a roof - awesome
120. Treasure Chest 5.12b, one move wonder - hand jam out a roof to
same anchors as Gold Finger
121. Golden Medallion 5.12a, good warmup, gear required in the middle
122. Hidden Treasure 5.12c *, 3p
  p1: 5.12c, bolted corner through broken features, into a shallow
      flaring groove.  Stemming and chimneying to roof with 2-finger
      slot for clip.  Reach into pumpy layback corner, protected by gear.
  p2: 5.12a, open book, bolt protected.  Climbs more like a slappy
      steep arete than a stemming corner.
  p3: 5.12a, thin crack and flake system.
123. Treasure Chest right side 5.8?, mossy crack/corner?
124. Mephistopheles Throne 5.12d, 2p
  p1: 5.12a
  p2: 5.12d, layback flake up overhanging headwall, 8+x
125. Millenium Falcon 5.13b, 3p
  p1: 5.13b, knobby face
  p2: 5.13a, 65m rope to lower and a trail line to get back in. Be careful!
  p3: pr., 5.12
126. Ginsu start to Millenium anchors pr.
127. Ginsu 5.12b A0 *, 19x, thin flake to knobs, cover photo of Climbing #194
128. Falcon Gods 5.12c, 3p
  p1: 5.11a, thin crack/corner on arete R of knobby slab, to ledge and corner
  p2: 5.12c, corner, two cruxes, can stop after the 1st crux at Pipeline
      belay, or lower back down to it from the p2 anchor.
  p3: 5.10d, LF corner right of Pipeline
 p1-2 were first climbed with some aid as "The Great Gig in the Sky"
129. Pipeline 5.12b, 100' 1"-2", left leaning corner, alt. to p3 of Falcon Gods
130. The Great Gig in the Sky p4? A2?, left-leaning arch A2, left of Pipeline
 (or this route might possibly have finished by aiding Pipeline; a recon
  will clear this up)
 This arch has been aided by Roxanne and Graham from Tahoe
131. mossy lower face 5.9?, 1x belay at lip
132. offwidth to flare 5.10a?, corner with mossy bulge directly below Falcon God
133. knobby slab 5.10a X, climb near the fixed line from the bolt belay
 at the base of Falcon Gods to bolt anchor at the small corner below Ginsu.
134. tube corner 5.10b?, overhanging left-leaning LFC on R side of knobby slab
135. overhanging corner 5.10c?, overhanging mossy hand crack
136. another corner 5.10c?, just right of p1 of Falcon Gods, joins it
137. chimney switch 5.8, 2p
  p1: 5.8, up easy chimney below ow, up wide crack or 5.9 lieback on right
    wall to belay at oak tree
  p2: 5.8, traverse R to R chimney system, up outside face, then
    dirty chimney to belay ledge.  Move belay up and over left (3rd class)
    to bolt belay at start of Falcon Gods.  (or could continue upwards)

Hidden Wall - West Buttress ("Rattlesnake Buttress")

138. Finders Keepers 5.11, steep chimney system on L side of West Buttress.
One pitch of face to a pyramid type block that sits at the bottom of a
nice hand crack to ow. Belay under a giant roof that actually turns to
left and forms a ow undercling. The lower section is probably 5.9.
The undercling is in the 5.11 range.
139. Thin Lizzy 5.10+, in center of NE face of West Buttress.  One pitch.
   Direct start.  Has some thin sections, but also dikes to rest on.
140. more Rattlesnake routes 5.9?, more possibilities further right?

route names to match up
Below are some route names, mostly from the safeclimbing.org web page.
They are listed as rebolted routes, and the names may match some
of the routes above whose names I don't know.  Bolt counts
are given to help in the process....  Probably a lot of them
are on Silver Streak Slab.

141. Original Sin 5.12, Calaveras Dome, gear, photo p.101 of Climbing #194
142. Over the Edge, 6x
143. Solar Panel, 5x, 2p
144. Walking on the Moon, 5x
145. West of Venus, 21x
146. Whyamea, 4x
147. Tuck and Roll, 6x on p1
148. Access Fun