rev. 1/25/93
Index Town Wall guide

Compiled by Clint Cummins.  All routes are listed left to right.
Crags are also mostly left to right, but some are listed by approach.
Split pitch ratings are used when pitches are often done in isolation or
combined with other routes (when higher pitch is ~2 letter grades harder
than lower one, or when ledges connect to other pitches).  A few crags
have been given provisional names which can be changed later if the FA
parties come up with their own names.  [rating changes for 93+ guide included]
Notation:
  x   = bolt  (3x = 3 bolts on pitch, not counting belay bolts)
  P   = fixed piton
  Fr. = Friend
  ch. = cheater stick  (use stick to clip first bolt)
  qds = number of quickdraws for multipitch sport route (+ more for belays)
  LAs = Lost Arrow pitons may be needed
  tr  = toprope (route has not been led; use an upper belay)
  p2  = pitch 2 (p1 = pitch 1, etc.)
  2p  = 2 pitches (2P = 2 fixed pitons)
  pr. = project (unfinished/route in progress)
  un  = unnamed route
  <*  = negative starred route -- dirty, loose, etc. (worse than no stars)
 chipped = holds enhanced/crack enlarged deliberately by FFA party to make
           the moves easier (or harder).  [see below]
Protection ratings (apply to crux of route, not to easy sections):
  (from Jim Erikson's "Boulder Climbs" 1980)
  PD  = protection difficult/tricky to place, skill/time/care required, hastily
        placed gear will pull, often flaring pin scars or dirty/friable rock.
        Examples:  Virgin' on the Ridiculous, Sagittarius p2
  R   = runout, 20' fall onto good pro, shorter fall with gear pulling,
        fair chance of being hurt.  Examples:  24-Hour Buccaneer, Wham!
  X   = chance of extremely long fall, ripping many pieces,
        good chance of being very hurt.
        Examples:  Strength Through Bowling, Fiction (when wet)
---------------------------
This guide is constructed to be cheaply distributed and easily updated;
please feel free to make copies for your friends.  Please send any
corrections to:  Clint Cummins, 204 Junipero Serra Blvd., Stanford CA 94305.
New route book:  Vertical Club, 1111 Elliot Ave. West, Seattle WA 98119.
Index General Store:   1-800-551-4583 (weather info, bakery, deli, etc.)
---------------------------
Nailing and chipping are two practices which damage the climbing potential
at Index.  If you are considering doing these things, please read the
suggestions near the end of the guide.



Lower Lump - Beetle Bailey Arch

1. Confetti p1 5.7, L side of arch
2. Confetti p2 5.11b *, roof, P
3. Confetti Arch 5.9+, L side of arch
4. Lying Lycra Piggies 5.10c, 3x
5. Beetle Bailey p1 5.10+ *, 3x, #1.5 Fr.
6. old solo 5.8, 2x (retrobolted)
7. Village Idiot 5.7, RFC
8. Racer-X 5.10a/b ***, 6x, 2P, #3 Fr. (opt.), L slab route
9. Metal 5.11c *, 7x, 4P, middle slab route
10. Beetle Bailey p2 5.11a **, R-leaning crack, 1x, 6P, RPs, Frs
11. Beetle Bailey p2 finish var. 5.11a, 2x
12. Larry's Gaily Colored Lycra 5.10c, 1x
13. Beetle Bailey p3 A3
14. Congolindination p1 5.8, LF arch
15. Congolindination p2 A3

Lower Lump - Top of The Wart

16. Crispy Bacon 5.10d PD, LFC and face L of Cupcake
17. Cupcake 5.10c *, LFC to 2x belay, p2: R to thin crack

Lower Lump - Right of The Wart

18. Walking Back to Happiness 5.12a, 4x, dirty/R start

Lower Lump - Right Side

19. nailing practice A1, blocky/loose roofs L of Snowdonia
20. Snowdonia 5.10c <*, ramp L from fir to gulley/chimney
21. Billy's Corner 5.10c, LFC, contrived
22. Sentry Box 5.10a *, LFC to roof
23. Fang Overhang 5.10d *, L under overhang above fir, pro to 4", looks loose
24. No Hobby 5.11a, start at fir, shallow corner to face w/ loose blocks
25. Parole 5.11a, largest of blocky roofs on R side, bolts, loose rock
 (not shown)

Inner Wall Trail (L from Great Northern Slab trail)

Garden Wall

26. Short but Dirty 5.10+, LFC above ATtM start
27. A Touch too Much 5.11b R *, P, curving crack, very mossy now
28. Weed-B-Gone 5.10d R, 4x, steep slab, mossy + runout
29. Knob Job 5.10d *, 1x, 20' knobby face above trail

The Lip (right fork from Inner Wall trail)

30. Cried Trying 5.10a **, hand crack to small roof w/ arete
31. A Stick and a Gun 5.12b ***, 6x, ch.
32. crumbly 5.12 tr
33. Head 5.11c, 6x,.f ch., direct start to First Offence
34. First Offence 5.10c ***, 5x, small nuts + TCUs at start, reach

Winkie Dinkie Cliff
 (Take care to avoid knocking rocks onto G.N. Slab area below!)
 (one minute approach to Dihedral Wall + The Shield from here)

35. House of Happiness 5.11d **, 3x, nuts to 2", 6" to chimney
 5.10 when dry
36. Timberjack 5.8+ *, 2x, nuts to 4",.l flake to RFC, 60'
37. Gorilla My Dreams 5.10a **, 8x, athletic but not very technical
38. pr., 8x

K Cliff (recent rockfall)

39. K dihedral 5.8, R-leaning RFC
40. new route 5.8, corner then straight up, 20' L of B+S
41. new route 5.7, corner to R-slanting ramp
42. Bend + Stretch 5.10b, 1x, arete, crosses dike
43. Comes in Quartz 5.10a, 2x, L-slanting dike to face
44. Spring Fall 5.9, 10' thin crack + ramps
45. Turkish Heels 5.11a, 2P, crux start, R ramp descent, mossy now

Sam Hill (E of stream)

46. Siderinder 5.10a PD **, 4x, nuts to #2 Fr.
47. slab pr., 5.11c

Hush Hush, Bush of Slugs (300' E of Notch/Toxic Shock, just S of stream)

48. new route 5.9, 2x, L side of pillar R of RFC
49. new route 5.10?, 2x, R side of pillar
50. pr., upper R side of face

Inner Wall - Left of Cave (north face, shady/cool in summer)

51. View from the Bridge 5.10d, stem RFC, mossy (** if rescrubbed)
52. Toxic Shock 5.9 **, lieback to hand crack
53. Slapshot (lower) 5.12a *, 3x, arete, 1 hanger missing
54. Slapshot (upper) 5.11c **, 5x, hangers missing
55. Even Steven (lower left) 5.8 *, hand to fist
56. Even Steven (lower right) 5.8 *, hand to fist
57. Even Steven (full) 5.11b ***, twin thin cracks
58. Geek Corners 5.10b PD, LFCs, often wet
59. Stinkbug 5.12b **, 3x, P, ch., hanger + bolt missing
60. pr.
61. Roadside Floral Curtain 5.12a ***, 10x, ch., 1 hanger + 3 bolts missing
62. Tang 5.11c, thin crack/face on L wall of cave entrance
63. Tang p2 A2

Inner Wall - Right of Cave

64. route/pr. 5.9?, P, 25' RFC
65. Foodbar 5.11b, 20' overhanging thin corner crack, 60' R of cave
66. seam A3, 1x
67. Repo Man 5.10a, dark RFC, P, 90' R of cave, 25'
68. Behind the Eight Ball 5.10a, ow in LFC, 2 pitches, at upper notch

69. Leather Lung pr., 5.11a/b, 200' W of upper notch on S side (not shown)

North Side of Canyon - Far West End

70. Tie Me to a Length of That 5.12a ***, #1.5 Fr., 300' W of upper notch

Grandeur Buttress (opposite main Inner Wall)

71. Delusions of Grandeur 5.10c PD *, steep face past overhangs
72. Agent Orange 5.11a *, P, defoliated slabby face, traverse into RFC,
 first pin missing = currently R, doesn't climb arete
73. Agent Orange arete 5.11d tr
74. Corner Flash 5.7, hand to fist

Trap Balls Buttress - South Face

75. XL - Extra Large 5.8+, L-leaning LFC
76. Trap Balls 5.10d *, short arch crack R of cave to ledge, p2: up crack
77. Tom's Traverse 5.9+, traverse R on Trap Balls ledge to short crack

Trap Balls Buttress - East Face (W of stream)

78. thin crack 5.10+ ?
79. new route/pr. 5.11 ?, 4x

Great Northern Slab

80. Leo Chimney 5.6 <*
81. Velvasheen 5.6 *, LF arch
82. Archies 5.6, RF arch
83. Ramp Approach 5.2
84. Gulley Approach 5.0
85. Sandy Corner 5.10, 15' boulder problem
86. Smooth Arete 5.10d, 2x, 20'
87. Great Northern Slab 5.6 ***, twin cracks
88. Libra Crack 5.10a **, 1.25" crack
89. Pisces 5.6 *, hand, then crosses to L
90. Let's Go Bowling 5.11b, 2x, contrived face R of Pisces crack
91. Taurus 5.7 **
92. Sickle Crack 5.7 *
93. Blockbuster var. 5.9, fist
94. The Lizard 5.8 ***, fist, LFC, flare, roof/hand, aka Aries
95. A.O.A (Air Over Aries) 5.11a, 5x, L over Aries roof to blunt arete
96. Nick o'Time 5.10a *
97. Slanting Crack 5.8
98. Voyage to the Bottom of the Verge 5.10d *, 2x, P, #2.5/#3 Fr.,
 crux is R/X if top pin is missing, aka On the Virgin
99. On the Verge 5.11b/c *, 4x
100. Crystalline 5.9+, bouldering arete to crack
101. Walkin' the Dog 5.10c A0, 4x, friable rock
102. Sonic Reducer 5.12a ***, 7x, bad bolts
103. Terminal Preppie 5.11c ***, 4x, wires
104. Strength Through Bowling 5.11a X, wires, Fr., old anchors stolen
105. Roger's Corner 5.9 *, dry on wet days
106. Sugar Bear 5.10c *, loose, friable rock
107. Breakfast of Champions 5.10a ***, loose block
108. Marginal Karma 5.11b **
109. Virgin' on the Ridiculous 5.12a PD, loose/friable rock

Lower Town Wall - Left Side

110. All-Purpose Duck 5.11c PD, LAs, tieoffs opt.
111. Snow White p1 5.6 A3, 1x, loose flake
112. Princely Ambitions 5.9+ **, 2 pitches
113. Snow White p2 left A3+?, rivet
114. Doctor Sniff and the Tuna Boaters 5.11a ***
115. Snow White p2 right (free start) 5.11d R A2 pr., 2x
116. Snow White p2 right (aid) 5.10c A2
117. P.A. Direct 5.10b, RPs, 2x
118. Go For a Soda 5.9+, traverse L from 1st bolt on Model Worker, 5.6 R
119. Model Worker (short) 5.11b **, 2x, P, Fr., 40'
120. Model Worker (full) 5.11c ***, 5x, P, Fr., 140', 5.11d if short
121. Frog Pond p1 5.12d *, 2x, gear
122. Frog Pond p2 A3
123. Tadpole 5.11c **, 5P, flare, dirty
124. Numbah Ten p1 (free version) 5.12a/b **, 10x
125. Numbah Ten (original) 5.12a/b A3, copperhead seam in corner
126. Amandla 5.13b/c ***, right arete of original Numbah Ten corner, 11x
127. Numbah Ten p2 A2 X, nails under huge loose block
128. Iron Horse (to flake) 5.11d ***
129. Iron Horse (full) 5.12a, slot and roof, unrepeated?
130. Arachnid Arch 5.11d tr *
131. Sagittarius (arch) 5.9+ **
132. Sagittarius (to flake or roof) 5.10 **
133. Sagittarius (full) 5.11b ***, 5.11d if short
134. Sagittarius p2 5.10 PD, tricky RPs in pin scars
135. Tantric Bazooka 5.11d PD, good RPs but hard to place, Balls/Rollers
136. Ten Percent ... (original) p1 A2 ***, [Meterological Vinculation]
137. Ten Percent ... p1 (free version) 5.12a ***, crux: clipping 2nd bolt
138. Ten Percent ... p2 5.8 A2 or 5.10 tr <*, one 5.10 move, tree bushwhack

Dihedral Wall

(approach via trail, GN Slab, or Princely Ambitions)

139. Terminator 5.10b **, 2x, reachy knobs, 5.10d if short
140. Defoliator 5.7, crack to corner + face
141. Instigator 5.8, block arete to corner, 10' var. to Defoliator
142. Cup and Saucer 5.11c/d ***, stemming RFC, 1x, 6P
143. Julie's Roof 5.11a/b **, middle corner, finishes to L
144. Julie's Roof right finish 5.11a/b R, dirty/mossy
145. Gogum 5.11a/b *

The Shield (R past gulley from Dihedrals)

146. Lamar's Trust 5.9+ *, 3x
147. Beak Beak Beak 5.9 *, RFC to left exit crack
148. Newest Industry 5.11a ***, 5x, steep slab to roof
149. Ten Percent ... p4 5.11b ***, 7x
150. Ten Percent ... p5 5.10d **, 2-4x
151. Journey to Pitar 5.12a *, 3x
152. Cheeseburgers on Trial 5.11b, LFC flake/rib, 2x
153. Stiff Kittens 5.11d **, 50' diagonal crack undercling, x, p

Lower Town Wall - Center - lower pitches

154. Japanese Gardens to upper Ten Percent 5.11c/d ****, a classic combo
155. Japanese Gardens p1 (short) 5.10a ***, hand, bad belay anchor
156. Japanese Gardens p1 (full) 5.11c/d ***, thin crux, pro to 4"
157. It's a Dog's Life ... 5.11c *, LAs, [but you can Picnic with us]
158. If God Wrote ... A2, [you a letter, would you read it?]
159. Japanese Gardens p2 5.11b **, thin
160. Trout Farm Massacre 5.11b, thin
161. Stern Farmer p1 (free version) 5.12a **
162. Stern Farmer p1 (original) A2 **
163. Stern Farmer p2 A3+ *
164. Bwana Dick 5.11c PD R, face, RPs, 1x
165. Artifice p1 A4, copperhead seam
166. Bat Skins p1 (short) 5.11a *, x, p
167. Bat Skins p1 (full) 5.12b *, sustained pure stem
168. Bat Skins p2 5.11b or 5.11d *, 3-4x, P, RFC
169. Artifice p2 A2, loose roof to thin crack, 5.10b tr to City Park ledge
170. City Park p1 5.13c or C1 ***, unrepeated free by anyone with real feet?
171. Godzilla 5.9+ ****
172. Gold Bar Girls 5.9+ *, flake L of City Park p2, long runners
173. City Park p2 5.10b **, 3x, 5.10c if short
174. Leapin' Lizards 5.10a/b, dirty, p2 of Godzilla
175. Deal with it Ranger 5.11b/c PD **, 2P, corner to flare, #2-2.5 Fr.
176. Natural Log Cabin 5.11c/d **, above DwiR, 2 ropes, unrepeated?
177. NA Overhang Far Left A3+, seam to Natural Log Cabin
178. Narrow Arrow Overhang p1 Left 5.11b **, 4x
179. Narrow Arrow Overhang p1 Center A4 *, copperhead seam var.
180. Narrow Arrow Overhang p1 Right 5.11b C3 **
181. Narrow Arrow Overhang p2 (direct start) 5.12d ***
182. Narrow Arrow Overhang p2 (traverse start) 5.12a ***, trav. from NA Direct

Lower Town Wall - Center - upper pitches

(usual approach via Godzilla + City Park p2)

183. Japanese Gardens p3 5.11a, corner, thin, now dirty
184. Japanese Gardens p4 5.11c, corner, arch
185. Klaus von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love 5.10c PD **, thin
186. Trapped by a Hamster 5.10c
187. Stern Jr. A2
188. Giant Size Baby Thing 5.11b, 5.10a R
189. Slow Children 5.10d ****, flared corner/thin
190. City Park p3 5.8 A1, LFC

Lower Town Wall - Right Side - lower pitches

191. Narrow Arrow Direct p1 5.9 C2 **
192. Narrow Arrow Direct p2 5.10b **
193. I'd Rather be Golfing 5.11b *, L crack from fork
194. Clubhouse Scene 5.11b, R crack from fork
195. Buried Treasure (lower) 5.11c ***, arch + stemming, aka Shirley
196. Freedom Fighter p1 5.10d, dirty flake
197. Buried Treasure (upper) 5.10b
198. 24-Hour Buccaneer 5.11b R **, P, RPs
199. Thin Fingers approach 5.10a, thin LFC
200. Tatoosh p1 5.9 *, shallow flare
201. Thin Fingers 5.11a ****, 80' parallel cracks
202. Big Toes 5.11b **, RPs, 2 ropes
203. Free at Last 5.10b R, loose, dangerous
204. Tatoosh p2 5.9, squeeze
205. Just Say NO2 5.12a/b tr or 5.12a A0, arete w/ 5x, hard clips, bad falls
206. With Apologies to Walter B. 5.11b PD **, short crux face past bolt
 to thin 5.10+ corner, bottom dirty + friable
207. Quarry Crack 5.9 *, ow or lieback, dirty
208. Narrow Arrow Standard 5.7 <*, very loose blocks
209. Preying Mantle 5.10c, arch, dirty, no real anchor (2" sapling)

Lower Town Wall - Right Side - upper pitches

210. Narrow Arrow Left Side 5.7, LFC
211. Narrow Arrow Upper 5.7, 2p
212. Narrow Arrow Direct p3 5.10d ***, thin crux, fist in flare, 1x
213. Narrow Arrow Direct p4 5.9 *, ow, 6" Fr., aka The Cleft,
 entrance move is 5.10 for people shorter than 6'
214. Social Vacuum 5.11c, traverse crack R to avoid ow
215. Death to Zeke 5.11a **, strenuous layback to face
216. Freedom Fighter p2 5.9, ow
217. Hard as Hell 5.10, arch, ow
218. Tatoosh (full) 5.10a *, p4 is *, 2x on p5
219. Tatoosh finish var. A2
220. Slam 5.11c <*, thin, dirty, contrived, loose blocks
221. Let's Barbecue 5.11b ***, P, thin corner on prow
222. Tai and Randy Memorial 5.10d, corner and roof,
     very very dirty
223. Bob and Doris 5.10c ***, RFC, steep, clean,
     hard to get to, but worth it

Patrick's Area (The Country - upper left side)

224. Whipnatize 5.10+ *, 3x, 100' L of Steel Monkey
225. Steel Monkey 5.12a *, short thin crack + face
226. Baboon 5.11b, dirty, grabbed branch then broke it...
227. Crowbar 5.11b/c *, 3x, thin crack, 2 roofs
228. Ted Nugent in a Basket 5.11c/d *, 8x to tree, crux at 3rd x
229. Patrick's Flake 5.10d PD, p1 of Orc Tower
230. Total Seawash Calypso 5.11d **, roof, ch. for 2nd x
231. Willing Slave 5.11d PD <*, 30' R of TSC, joins SG for 20', dirty top
232. Savage Garden 5.11b R *, tiny RPs
233. Blackberries Connection 5.7 tr <*, loose, R from SG belay to join E-N

Orc Tower (approach via Patrick's Flake)

234. Orc Wall A3
235. Orc Wall Right var. A3
236. Orc Tower aid route 5.8 A3, above Patrick's Flake, up L corner/chimney
237. Rubble Without a Cause 5.11b

The Country - Center - lower pitches

238. The Fifth Force (boulder) 5.10c tr, 15' SE steep slab on large boulder,
 70' S of The Fly in talus field
239. The Fly 5.10+ tr *, small roof, 25', just L of E-N
240. Elvis-Nixon 5.11a, 9x, aka p1 of Kite Flying Blind
241. Elvis-Nixon var. 5.11a, 10' R of E-N, 1x, stoppers
242. Just Say No to Frank Sinatra 5.11c/d, 1x, 3' L of MS
243. Just Say Yo var. 5.10, start on Mourning Star, finish on JSNtFS
244. Mourning Star 5.8+, corner crack to chimney
245. Longlife 5.12a R <*, 7x, dirty top, some hard clips/skips
246. Zoom p1 5.10d PD ***, knobby face, 3x, above concrete well
247. Wham! 5.11b/c R **, 2x, 2P, #3 Fr.
248. Little Jupiter (short) 5.11d **, 6x, short RFC, face, pinch knobs
249. Little Jupiter (full) 5.13a *, 10x, unrepeated?, one very hard move
250. Big Science 5.12b **, 3x, wires + TCUs, pinch knobs
251. Scientific Americans 5.12c chipped *, p2 of Big Science
252. Little Science 5.11b *, var. start to Big Science, tie off bolt
253. one more start 5.10+
254. Ultrabrutal, SS 5.7 *, R-leaning LFC, dirty L traverse, 1p, 2P
255. Tunnel Vision 5.11a/b **, 3x, TCUs, start on Ultrabrutal
256. Climax Control 5.11c R, L finish to Cunning Stunt, 3x, 1 stopper
257. Cunning Stunt 5.11a **, 2x, 2 pitches
258. Cunning var. 5.12 tr
259. Fifth Force 5.12b/c ***, 7x
260. Force Fed 5.11d **, ramp from Fifth Force to Spooner, avoids cruxes
261. Spooner 5.11d *, 6x, tricky, ch.
262. Heironymous Bosch 5.11b R, 4x

The Country - Center - upper pitches

263. Wipe p2 5.11a ***, face to crack, RPs
264. Kite Flying Blind 5.11b/c ***, 4x, TCUs, a very good pitch
265. Wipe p1 5.9, from top of Zoom p1: 5.7 hand traverse, 5.9 face
266. Leave my Face Alone 5.11a **, 4x, juggy final face just R of KFB
267. Hairway to Stephan 5.11a *, 5x, __P, nuts, #2.5-3 Fr.
268. Zoom upper 5.10 *, chimney, hand, and fist
269. Superstition pr., 6x, face to arete/LFC, above SA
270. Conditioned Response 5.11b, 1x, starts 20' R of end of SA, R over roofs
271. Angora Grotto 5.11a *, 8x, RFC to face, gear to #2.5 Fr.
272. Big Big Fun 5.11c *, 4x, some bad bolts

The Country - Right Side

273. D is for Dictory 5.11b PD **, 3x
274. Fool's Gold 5.10a PD, 1x, #4 Fr., up LFC then down and R
275. Heart of the Country p1 5.10b R *
276. G-M p1 5.8 ***
277. Heart of the Country p2 5.11b **
278. G-M p2 5.9 **
279. Phone Calls from the Dead 5.11b **, 3x, small nuts useful
280. pr., R start to Phone Calls, 2 bolt holes drilled
281. G-M p3 5.9 **, 6" crack
282. Heart of the Country p3 (short) 5.10a ***, 1.25" to one fist move
283. Heart of the Country p3 (full) 5.11a **, thin
284. Whipped Cream over the Clothesline 5.12a, 4x, ch. (or use tree)
285. The Scoop 5.11d PD *, 7x, nuts to #1.5 Fr., face to RFC
286. pr., 30' RFC
287. Freeze Dried Lizard Antlers 5.10d, P, 1x
288. Dead Bobcats Travel West 5.10a, starts on wide flake, 1x (bad), RPs

Blues Cliff (at top of The Country, first real L fork from new trail)

289. Accidental Discharge 5.11c ***, 9x, arete
290. Black Cat Bone 5.11c/d **, thin crack and arete
291. Cry Baby 5.12a, 4x, L-diagonalling dike
292. Blue in the Face 5.12c **, 7x, RFC, arete stem, LFC
293. Written in Stone 5.11b **, 9x, black + white quartz face
294. Etch-a-Sketch 5.11b *, 8x, arching LFC, joins WiS for 15'
295. Blues Riff 5.11b **, 6x, facing corners
296. BB Cling 5.11d/5.12a, 9x, above BR, dirty R traverse
297. Rhythm and Bolts 5.11b **, 6x, slabby face
298. The Color of Pain 5.12a/b, 8x, orange corner past slight roof
299. pr., seam/thin crack

Rhythm Cliff (600' above Blues Cliff, trail branch hard R)

300. Stud Farm 5.11c **, 7x, L-leaning arete
301. Horseplay 5.11d *, joins Unnatural Act after crux of Stud Farm
302. Unnatural Act 5.11c ***, 11x, shares 4x, R at roofs

Trail to Middle Wall

303. Behind the Green Door 5.11c *, 8x, above west stairs
304. pr., 2 scrubbed seams

Middle Wall (above Lower Wall and Winkie Dinkie Cliff)
 (further W past Rhythm/Blues Cliffs on slight R branch)

305. Keith's Crack 5.11b ***, thin
306. Wild Boar 5.11c/d ***, 5x, dike, reachy
307. Stems and Leaves 5.10a
308. Dinky Twinkies 5.9 *, 3x
309. Flee Fly Flue 5.7 *, 2 pitches
310. pr., arete
311. pr., crack
312. pr., face
313. Hips and Valleys 5.8 *
314. pr., LFC
315. pr., RFC
316. MW crack 5.11a, 25', to RR
317. stem crack 5.8, 20', to RR
318. Robin's Ramp 5.7 **, 2x
319. pr., seam on arete
320. new route 5.9?, thin arching RFC
321. new route 5.10c?, thin cracks on arete

Little Elvis (second real left fork from from new trail)

322. Shark Bait 5.11b **, 5x, overhanging arete, #2.5 Fr.
323. Cornered 5.11d *, 4x, thin gear, stemming corner
324. Love Buttons (to roof) 5.11b ***, 4x, 2 #1 TCUs
325. Love Buttons (full) 5.12 *, 5x, crux is getting onto slab above roof
326. Dirty Laundry 5.11d ***, 6x, wild shallow stemming

Trail to Upper Wall

One Bobcat Rock (steep, short crag with anchor tree above trail, SW of SL)

327. Acceptance Speech Impediment ... 5.10 tr, large holds
 [Left Much Rugosity]

Shady Lane (below Dana's Arch on new trail)

328. Class Action 5.11b **, 4x, 50'
329. Relevez 5.9 *, 1x, ramp + horizontal cracks

The Icelicker Wall (below trail, E of Shady Lane)

330. Rocketing Lemonade Hawk is my Name 5.10 tr, jams and laybacks
331. The Icelicker Crack pr., looks hard, up for grabs
332. Pad in Hand ... 5.10 tr, thin fragile flake which thickens at top
 [, the Milk flows oh so freely, every Sphinxter holiday]

Upper Town Wall - Far Left

333. Sportfishing 5.10c *, 3p, R of gully, steep flake to bubbly white crack
334. Vanessa Del Rio 5.12c *, 10x, gear to #2.5 Fr.
335. Everest Without Lycra 5.11b/c *, arete w/ only 2x
336. Squeeze It 5.11c, short arete, 4x, #2.5 Fr.

Earwax Wall

337. Friends in Holy Places p1 5.11a *, 1x, thin RFC to flake traverse
338. Friends in Holy Places p2 5.10 A2
339. Sweatshop 5.12a/b *, 7x, face to flake
340. Domestic Violence 5.11c/d ***, left/straight crack, 1x, 2P
341. Killslug 5.12b **, 9x, middle crack (L start)
342. Sideshow 5.10d ****, 7x (L start), 5.11b if short
343. Thrillslug 5.12b **, 9x, R start to Killslug
344. Slugshow 5.11c/d **, R start to Sideshow
345. Earwax 5.11c ***, right/slanting RP crack, 1x, 2P, aka Gold Crack,
 3 each #2-#3 RPs
346. Young Cynics (short) 5.11c **, 7x (lower from Metolius bolt below crux)
347. Young Cynics (full) 5.13a ***, 9x, reachy crux, crux often wet
348. Raggedy Andy 5.12b/c ***, L from 3rd x of Soul on Ice
349. Raggedy Ann 5.11d, L from 4th x
350. Soul on Ice 5.12b/c **, 8x, #2.5 Fr.
351. The Antidote 5.13a **, 8x
352. The Biology of Small Appliances 5.12c ***, 7x, arete

Upper Wall - Left

353. The Back Road 5.8, 3p
354. pr., 4x
355. aid corner A4, short, 2 fixed heads, free pr.
356. Dana's Arch 5.8 A3 *, 5p, please don't nail p1
357. Dana's Arch p1 (short) 5.11b **, 7x, please don't nail this
358. aid route A4, 2 fixed heads in initial corner, at least 2 pitches
359. Prominent ow 5.10+, L of 2 cracks (R crack is 5.9+ Lamplighter)
360. Lamplighter 5.8 A3, 5p
361. Lamplighter p1 (full) 5.11b tr
362. Sobriety Test chipped pr., 11x

Sport Wall

363. Scatterlings 5.12b **, 10x, crux start off wet ledge
364. Quiet Lands 5.12b ***, 7x, short L-leaning face
365. Iron Eyes 5.12b A1, 5x, above Quiet Lands belay
366. Heart's Desire 5.12c ***, 9x
367. Calling Wolfgang 5.12b **, 7x, #6 Rock, #1.5, #2 Fr.
368. Child Abuse 5.12d **, 13x, #4 Rock
369. Child's Play 5.11c *, 6x, #4 Rock, RPs

Upper Wall - Center

370. Davis-Holland 5.10c ****, 3-6p
371. Lovin' Arms (high trav.) 5.10c ****, 3p finish to D-H, 5.9 R
372. Lovin' Arms (low trav.) 5.11b or 5.10c A0 ****, 1x
373. Rise and Fall 5.12a ***, 5p, 15+ qds
374. Green Dragon p1 5.11a *, 5.9 C2+ for entire route
375. Green Dragon p2 C2
376. The Green Dragon p3-5 5.4 C2+ *
377. Town Crier 5.8+ C2+ ***
378. 12 Angry Bees 5.11c **, 10x
379. Swim 5.11c/d A1 ***, 7p, nuts to 3.5"
380. aid route R of Swim A3+?, 3p
381. Madsen Ledge Traverse 5.5?
382. Swim start pr.
383. Non-Local Bark House 5.11c ***, copperhead for pro
384. Steel Pole Bathtub 5.11a *

Waterfall Area (free routes Technicians ... through Sisu wet except in summer)

385. Waterway Left Route 5.7 A3 **
386. Waterway Crossing Var. 5.7 A3
387. Technicians of the Sacred 5.12b ***, 6p, 11+ qds
388. pr., LFC, 2x, free pr.
389. Abraxas 5.7 A4 **, bad bolts, current free pr.
390. Klewin Route A4, probably goes up Abraxas and then L
391. The Golden Arch p1 5.11b *, bad bolt
392. The Golden Arch (upper) 5.7 A3+ ***
393. Sisu 5.11d ***, 7p, 16+ qds, belay seat, dirty in early spring
394. Geritol 5.12a *, 13x, dirty in early spring
395. Over 40 5.11b, 15x, dirty in early spring
396. The Ave p1 5.8
397. Good Girls Like Bad Boys 5.12a ****, 6p, between Abraxas and Sisu,
 up The Ave, out left at roofs, just qds, easiest pitch is 5.11c/d
398. The Ave (upper) 5.8 A4 **
399. Electromatic Mark IV 5.11d *, 8x, #.75-#2 Fr., unrepeated?

Crags on/below trail to Cheeks

Pressure Drop Wall (W of trail to Lower Cheeks)
 (the routes here are usually toproped)

400. Green is Here 5.10c, double thin cracks, very dirty
401. Broken Disk 5.10c tr, starts on Green is Here, right to face
402. Pressure Drop 5.11a **, thin
403. Blame it on Cain 5.11c R *, very thin
404. Errol Flynn on Piano 5.12a PD *, lieback pocketed seam, RPs

Self-flagellating Window Inspector (E of trail, 40' R of Pressure Drop Wall)

405. Brain Cramps 5.10b, left-leaning groove + face, pro to 1.5", loose flake
406. Universal Language 5.11+ R, leaning corner on slab, B1-/B5.12 start
407. Let's Go Crazy 5.11c PD, very thin crack on slab
(wall continues to E with Lower Cheeks)

The Rabbit (top is 60' S of S.-f.W.E., below Black Planet)

408. Concrete Lawn Critters 5.11d ***, 9x, steep face, 70'

Left Cheek

409. Jesters of Chaos p1 5.10d *, 2x, p
410. Jesters of Chaos p2 5.12a *, many #1.5, #2 Fr.
411. The Incision A2, straight seam
412. Direct Delivery 5.11+, direct start to Sedan Delivery
413. Sedan Delivery 5.11c/d **, or var to p2 of WW, thin crack, 1x, p
414. Wilmon's Walkabout 5.11c **
415. Perverse Traverse 5.5, belly crawl move

The Beach

416. Heaven's Rear Entry Vehicle ... 5.10 A0 <*, (temporary name)
 (grabbed nut at dirty fist jam), [, parked out back, tow away zone]
417. pr., 5.8 face in chimney
418. Undermedicated chipped pr., 7x
419. Zipper p3-p4 5.8 A2
420. Stock Options 5.10d **, 2p, 2 sets (RPs to #4 Fr.), aka Apes&Ballerinas
421. Terry-Michael 5.11c *, 2p, 2 ropes

Lower Cheeks - Left Side

422. Ted, Ted Nugent 5.11b tr, face and crack just L of Black Planet
423. Hello, my name is Ted pr., direct finish to TTN
424. Black Planet 5.9+ PD, knobs to corner, 1x
425. The Green Room 5.11+, LFC to L anchors
426. Heat Seeker 5.12 tr **, RFC to L anchors
427. tr pr., RF, R-leaning flake to R anchors
428. Friendly Fire 5.10b/c *, 7x, slab to RFC
429. Engines of Archimedes 5.12a *, 11x, slab to face
430. pr., 2x L to ramp
431. The Boneyard 5.12c/d chipped, 10x

Eliminator Cliff (down gully below Boneyard)


Lower Cheeks - Right Side

432. Clay 5.11d ****, overhanging white LFC, p2: 5.10+ PD ** slab w/ pins
433. All Dogs go to Heaven 5.12d **, 9x, LFC w/ roof to chains
434. Fiction 5.11a R *, 4x, P, L slab, possible X groundfall in 2 places
435. Zipper p1 5.10a ***, flared corner and thin crack
436. Zipper p2 A2 *, "Ice Cream Scoop" roof
437. un Zip 5.10a/b, 3x
438. Tango for Two 5.10c, LFC to knobby face

The Bowels

439. Attractive Nuisance 5.13a chipped ***, 7x, bombay LFC, always dry
440. Not Sheer Strength 5.12c chipped ***, 5x, always dry except last 2 holds
441. Extended Play 5.13a/b *, 7x total, links NSS to AN, always dry
442. Peer Pressure pr., 2-4x, R-leaning arete
443. chipped pr., 6x to lip, bolt-on hold at anchors
444. Danny Boy 5.12a *, 3x to lip
445. Pedal to the Metal 5.12b *, 3x to chains

446. Less than Zero (original) 5.11b, LF chimney to arch
447. Less than Zero (full) 5.11c, to face on R
448. pr., 8x, P, gear, arete
449. pr., crack to 4x, P
450. Bravo Jean Marc 5.11a **, L-leaning thin crack L of arete, 80'
451. pr., brown dike crack, 40'
(easy approach to The Dark Crystal from here)

Trail to Diamond

Private Idaho (lower cliff band below and R of Diamond)

452. Brad Driscol ... 5.10d, 30', normally tr, 150' L of 3 Trucks,
 [Outnumbered his Guests, but a good time was had by all]
453. Brad Driscol Right Side 5.10d, 2x, 30', normally tr
454. Three Trucks ... 5.11c *, 4x, reachy, [Stacked on Top of Each Other]
455. Teabag 5.12d, 3x, thin 40' face
456. 900 Oil-Stricken Waterfowl ... 5.11a, 4x, [Taken to Ocean Shores]
457. Waterfowl direct start 5.11a R, 2x, HB nuts
458. Imagine Your Best Student Here 5.11a, 4x, over R side of roof
459. Imagine var. 5.11 tr, over L side of roof next to groove
460. Short and Stupid 5.8, arch to dirty RFC
461. Eraserhead 5.11c *, 4x, knobby steep slab
462. Wet Dream 5.9 *, LFC, some bushes
463. Curious Poses p1 5.11a *, seam in LFC
464. Magic Fern p1 5.9, ow
465. Magic Fern p2 5.7/5.8 *
466. Curious Poses p2 5.9 *
467. Istanbul 5.9, hand, leaning RFC
468. Battered Sandwich 5.9 **, flaring LFC
469. pr., 7x
470. Senior Citizens in Space 5.7 **, RFC, needs more cleaning
471. Spineless 5.11a **, low-angled arete, 9x
472. Noodle 5.11a/b *, thin, 3x, 1st buttress R of Spineless
473. The Little Buttress 5.11a, 2x, 30'

Hag Crag (slab 200' R of Private Idaho)

474. End Run 5.10a **, 20' up trough, traverse R, 6x
475. End Run - Direct Start 5.11d, 7x
476. Please Speak Now ... 5.10a, large pro at top,
 [, the anticipation of tapping in rhythm makes me oh so light]
477. Hag Crag Crack 5.7, R-leaning RFC/chimney system, dirty
478. HCC var. 5.10a, traverse R past 3x to Free Cat belay
479. pr., 2-5x
480. Free Cat 5.10d ***, 5x
481. Hag Crack Crap 5.4, dirty

Lookout Point (upper cliff band below and R of Diamond)

482. Bowling for Biscuits 5.10d *, p1: flared LFC to roof, p2: R side roof
483. Peanuts to Serve You 5.8/5.9, thin flake to RFC, pro to 3.5"
484. Purple Kool-Aid 5.10c, arch to dirty left-leaning corner
485. pr., left-diagonalling ramp/seam
486. Bobcat Cringe 5.12b ***, overhanging thin crack, 3P, 1x
487. new route 5.6, 2x to ring bolts (or LFC?), dirty
488. Rice Krispies 5.10, short crack to RFC, P
489. Spit 5.11+ or 5.10c A0 ***, 7x, nice slab
490. Law and Order 5.10c *, 3p, 100' R of Rice Krispies
491. Law and Order p1 var. 5.11a, too dirty to climb now, small RPs
492. The Dukes of Stratosphere 5.11d ***, 2p
493. Steel Pulse 5.10c **, 3p, 5.6 R, 100' R of Law and Order past gully
494. Scratch and Claw 5.10b/c *, R start to Steel Pulse, 3x
495. Bad Reputation p1 direct 5.11b **, 30' R of Steel Pulse
496. Bad Reputation p1 right 5.8
497. Bad Reputation p2 5.10c *

Mayflower Wedding Bracket (terraced wall just R of Lookout Point gully trail)

498. Bone Daddy 5.11a *, 50', 1x, starts 80' R of Bad Reputation

Wall of 10,000 Insects (at base of Diamond Gully on R)

499. Index Air Force 5.10a *, lb flake, thin, to overhang
500. IAF R start 5.10a, RF arch + flake
501. Them 5.8, 4" crack, arch and RFC

Rattletale Wall (L from Diamond Gully Trail)

502. Non-Stop Erotic Cabaret p1 5.11c **, 6x, #3-5 Hex (or R), #2.5 Fr.
503. Non-Stop Erotic Cabaret p2 5.12a ***, arete, 6x (.25")
504. Rattletale 5.10a/b **, corners, 3 pitches
505. leaner 5.9 A1?, R-leaning thin crack to 1x

Ice Damage is Due to Growth, Not Expansion (E side of Diamond Gully)

506. Jingus Fling 5.11b **, thin crack through roof
507. Sweets for Manuel 5.10b R **, RFC, LFC

The Diamond

508. The Dark Crystal 5.11b **, LF arch and corners, 3p, dirty now
509. Dihedral Route 5.8 A4 **, LFC, unrepeated?, may be hardest Index aid route
510. Sliding Into First 5.11c **, 9x, 1st half avoids seasonally wet LFC
511. Centerfold 5.11a ***, 4p
512. Jack o' Diamonds 5.11a **, from p2 of Centerfold go 90' L, bulging crack
513. Hell Bent for Glory 5.10d A0 *, arches + dikes, 5p, double 2.5" to 4",
 A0 was hangs on rope, some .25" bolts

The Beyond (500' up and R of Centerfold)

514. Pork Chop Torpedo 5.10b **, L-leaning LFC, finger to fist
515. Just Give 'em Whiskey 5.12a ***, 85', 3x, RPs, very nice face climb
516. Nearly Naked Now 5.10+ **, 4x, arete
517. The Cad-Burd Seat 5.10a, crumbly crack on W face
518. The Last Barstool in Mecca 5.11a, 3x, 40' arete

Zappa Wall (low on far right, old approach from E end of town, but priv. prop.)
 (please do not cross private property; please wait until a new trail is found)
 (no public trail, hideous bushwhack has repulsed recent attempts to reach it)

519. Hot Curly Weenie 5.10+ **, from top of huge flake, straight crack:
  thin LFC to 1.25" face crack
520. Poop Chute 5.8 <*, gulley/chimney
521. Suck Me in Please pr., 5.12a