How I'm spending a $100 donation

A Pinnacles climber (who prefers to remain anonymous) reported a broken bolt on the Son of Dawn Wall bolt ladder in the fall of 1999; I noticed his post on the FOP page. On 4/22/2000, I was in the area, and I replaced that broken bolt. The climber noticed the repair job on his next trip up the route, and he was kind enough to send me $100 to pay for materials for bolt replacement. At first I advised him to send the $ to Friends of Pinnacles or American Safe Climbing Association, but he insisted (and I caved). Thanks! So here is my accounting of what I have done with his donation on Son of Dawn Wall (all with 3/8" x 3" Rawlbolts and stainless steel Fixe or Metolius hangers):

The first 2 pitches now have all the important bolts upgraded. On aid, it is easy to combine both pitches in a single lead. I left several 1/4" bolts in place, with my goal being to upgrade all the bolts usually clipped for free climbing, which are subject to loads from leader falls. The 1/4" bolts are probably still fine for aid, especially with the frequent 3/8" bolts interspersed.

Note: I don't intend to solicit more donations. If other people want to donate $, please consider the Friends of Pinnacles or the ASCA. I know Bruce Hildenbrand of FoP has replaced a staggering number of bolts and installed many lap links/chains, and paid for all the materials himself. He and I both agree that the donation of time to do the work can be harder to come by than the $. If people want to donate their time, please contact Bruce or myself. We also accept donations occasionally.

In 2002, I bought another $95 worth of bolts and hangers from Greg Barnes of the ASCA at wholesale cost. I have been using these for small rebolting projects. I hope to work on Machete Direct soon.

In March 2003, Larry Arthur of Mountain Tools donated 2 nice prepainted (custom Pinnacles colors!) bolts and 4 hangers (2 Fixe Ring Anchor, suitable for vertical anchors, and 2 Bonier Clip-Safe, suitable for slabs and any angle). Thanks, Larry!