New Routes at the Pinnacles

(rev. 12/4/05)

This list uses route numbers from the 1991 or 1995 Rubine guides; for example, route 24.9 is left of route 25 (and closer to route 25 than to route 24). Most unfinished routes (projects) and new anchor bolts are generally not mentioned here (FP is the notation for a project, "First Prepared" by ...). Notation: 3x = 3 bolts, LFC = left facing corner, tr = toprope, p = fixed piton, Fr. = Friend.

Sources. The sources of information on the new routes listed here are usually fairly obvious from the First Ascent information. However, many of the comments/corrections on the older routes have come directly from several different people. Their initials are listed in [brackets] to indicate the source of the information.

Please send any additions/corrections to (Clint Cummins).

New Routes:

Ignorable Cliffs - Far Left End

Just off the main (hiking) trail to The Slot (right end of Discovery Wall), where the climber trail turns off right to approach Bat Cave and the top of the Rat Race area. The Exhibitionist is the route closest to the main trail; the others are up to its left.

0.2 Spanky 5.6, short hand crack far left of formation, by itself.
Directions: This is a 25' wavey finger crack/seam that faces due south (directly towards the main trail). It is obvious from a point on the main trail 50' above where the climbers' trail exits. [BY]
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Andy Gardner, 6/99

0.3 Trailside Tramp Corner 5.7
Directions: starts 6' left of Are You OK. Climb up to a small grassy terrace which is obvious from the main trail. From the terrace, turn 90 degrees to the right and climb the obvious deep corner. [BY]
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Andy Gardner, 6/99

0.4 Are You OK 5.7, loose corner at top of slope; goes up large groove between formations.
Directions: starts in the black water streak left of The Exhibitionist. Finish up a chimney at the top of the black water streak. [BY]
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Andy Gardner, 6/99

0.5 The Exhibitionist 5.10a, obvious corner then escape out left using hand crack.
Directions: from the point on the main trail where the climbers' trail exits right, one can see a Digger pine on top of the cliff with several small, bush-like scrub oaks to the left, on top of a buttress. The Exhibitionist ends at the scrub oaks. Climb the crack left of the face with black patina. Exit via a crack up and left to the oaks at the top. [BY]
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Andy Gardner, 6/99

0.7 Half Dollar Dihedral 5.8, a curved left facing corner, well right of The Exhibitionist.
Directions: starts about 60' left of the leftmost full sized Digger pine on top of the cliff. Traverse in from the right (across green rock), or bushwhack from the bottom to a large block sitting 20' below the curved corner. This dihedral makes an hourglass shape with the right facing corner to its left, and has a bush in the middle. From the block, climb up an obvious corner and up the left facing corner. [BY]
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, ~1992

Ignorable Cliffs - Bat Cave Face

0.9 Heavens to Murgatroid 5.11c, 2x, pro: many thin to 2.5". Faint waterstreak to thin crack, about 50' left of Bat Cave.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, 3/02

1.1 Beasto 5.8/5.9, dark black waterstreak to chimney, on right margin of the overhanging Bat Cave face
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, David Wood, 3/02

Ignorable Cliffs - Central

Above Rat Race, to the left of obvious thin corner

1.5 Bushwackin' Dave 5.8, go up chimney, turn corner to left to get on top of ledge. Past large bush, then up face to large chimney.
Directions: This can best be seen from the main trail, where the trail exits to the base of the Tourist Trap. It is on the cliff directly behind Rat Race, below and left of a huge Digger pine, which is on the skyline. Below the pine is an obvious arete with a crack to its left and a chimney left of the crack. The chimney does not go all the way to the ground, and it has some bushes at its base, halfway up the cliff. Climb to below the bushes and then , using a blind bucket, up and left onto a ledge. Enter the chimney by whackin' through the bush. Finish up the chimney. [BY]
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, David Wood, 6/99

2. Contraband Crack 5.9, "The photo shows it going right but that is real thin and I did not see any pin scars so I went left up the wide crack. Almost got Andy with a large loose rock on this one."
FFA - Dennis Erik Strom, Andy Gardner, 6/99

Tourist Trap

7.2 Pickpocket 5.11b, 7x
Starts on the slab directly behind and facing the same direction as Angstroms Away. Start just left of the small tree. Climb past two bolts and traverse to the crack on the right. Clip two bolts on the arete, traverse to the other side of the arete. Climb past three bolts to the anchor. As you approach Angstroms, the arete is visible above and behind the main Tourist Trap wall.
The rock is very solid, but some loose stuff still might come down on the moves just before the anchors. The crux is between bolts 5 & 6.
FA - Chris Kurrle, Karl Aguilar, 1/03

7.5 The Plummers Crack 5.7, much loose rock, no bolts.
Start in the rotten flake/book eight or ten feet to the left of Wee Little One. Place a piece in the crack which will take an upward pull. Careful (choose wisely, my son) lie-backing and stem moves take you above a bulge. A #4 Camalot goes in well high in the crack just before stepping up. Keep well to the left of the bolts on Wee Little One and place pieces in the crack as the mood strikes. A sloping ledge to the left of the final wall is reached. A pink Lowe tri-cam in a horizontal crack is bomber. Continue up and place other pieces (long runners, or rope drag will kill you) in the continuing crack. A good #2 Camalot can be the highest piece. Step around the arete and climb the final face to the top. It looks horrendous, but it can be truly fun.
Camalots 1 to 4. Small to medium aliens and flex friends are helpful, too. Lowe tri-cams are essential. [BW]
FA - probably in the 60s or 70s. An early ascent was done by Peter Carrick and Keay Edwards in May 1983 (with no cams), and the crack already looked relatively clean at that time. The route had 2 fixed pitons in 1999 when climbed by Jen Foo and Steve Dalleske, but they have since disappeared. The original route may have avoided the upper corner and traversed right across the horizontal crack on Wee Little One.

7.7 Wee Little One 5.8, 3x, between Angstroms Away and Rat Race, 30' high. It is a bit contrived, since it climbs a narrow band between 2 easier crack systems; if you climb the face without using either crack, the start is more like 5.9 or 5.10a. The rock is solid and the final moves in particular are fun. 2x on top for a belay/rappel anchor, and its chains do not reach to the edge (fine for rappelling, though).
FA - Steve and Chris Dalleske, 10/98

Unfortunately, the bolts are not really needed, and constitute "bolting next to a crack". The route has been led without clipping the bolts, by placing cams/nuts in the crack on the right and in the horizontal cracks near the top. Recently some dangerously loose blocks next to the second bolt were trundled, so the cam/nut placement there should be even easier to use. Perhaps the route was intended for leaders with no experience in placing cams or for people who do not own any. Note: the last bolt is below your feet on the crux, so it may not be a good lead for climbers who are not solid on 5.8. There are a couple of Pinnacles routes which have bolts next to a crack, such as Ordeal, but generally these routes are quite old and the bolts were used instead of pitons which may have been rather dangerous in the soft rock.

7.9 Rat Face 5.10+ tr, face and roof 10' left of Rat Race
FA(tr) - Mike Morley, Jon Hanlon, 2/05
Rat Face begins 10 feet left of Rat Race.  Face climb past a single Star Dryvin bolt (origin unknown), then continue straight up and through the intimidating roof above to finish at the Rat Race anchors.

left Heffalump buttress

On furthest L buttress of the Heffalump formation; approach from Discovery Wall trail. (this buttress has 2 clusters of 3 x 1/4" bolts on top, not very close to the edge).

15.7 [57c] lower Bat Crack 5.10a, crack to walk-off ledge. Upper crack is full of bats. Just R of Dismemberment Gorge. Comparable to Jorgie's Crack.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, David Wood, 5/95

15.6 [57d] mossy waterstreak 5.10b tr, #3-#4 Fr. for anchors, has mantles
FA(tr) - Clint Cummins, David Wood, 4/95

main Heffalump buttress

15.4 Lemmings 5.8 tr, starts on left side of nose of buttress, then out right to faint streak on the main face, which finishes at the summit.

15.3 Denied 5.10d *, 8x, solid waterstreak to notch in summit ridge, Crux is the reachy bulge at 2/3 height.
FA(tr) - Clint Cummins, David Wood, 4/95
FA(lead) - Dennis Erik Strom, David Wood, 3/96

15.2 M.E. and You 5.10a, 5x project just left of Heffalump (mentioned here, so it won't be confused with Denied).
FP - Chris Bellizzi, et al, ~1990

15.1 Woozle 5.8 tr, extension to Heffalump on upper wall past 2 old pins, loose finish.
FA(tr) - Clint Cummins, 4/95

Discovery Wall

24b. Melvin Direct Start 5.10b, 1x
Melvin has a new direct start, so it can now be done independently of Racing Stripes. The overall grade (5.11a) is unchanged.
FA - Kelly Rich, 3/05

24.7 The Embarassment of Rich's, 5.9+, This route follows the right-hand of two discontinuous crack systems between Melvin and "Between a Rock and a Hard Place". There are three distinct discontinuous wide sections.
"It uses all clean pro; this route goes hammerless to the top! While some might describe the first moves as chossy and run-out, you quickly run into surprisingly good pro. Past the overhanging hands, continue up the thin crack, then exit left to a chimney that you follow to the top. You can minimize your time dealing with horrendous rope drag by bailing out to the anchors of Melvin, but then you'll forsake your clean ascent of Discovery Wall. Either way, this is a tick you won't soon forget. On your rack, be sure to include several extra-large cams, and a set of large nuts!" [FoP]
FA - Kelly Rich, 12/97

26.3 Portent Right Finish 5.6 *, from the second set of double bolts, climb up and mostly right along a crack for 25', to a left-flaring groove. Climb up the groove to a small ledge on top, and from there to the rim. Pro to 4". [John Barbella/BY]

27.3 Big Pucker Direct 5.10c, at the horizontal crack above the first bolt, go right 2 feet, and straight over the big bulge (the final crux of Big Pucker above is 5.10d). This was led in 1994 or earlier.

27.4 Lounge Lizard Arete 5.10d tr, start on The Big Pucker; up arete to right, between Big Pucker and Wet Kiss. Pumpy with some interesting pockets.
FA(tr) - Clint Cummins, 4/96

37.2 Jorgie's On Crack (original aid finish to Jorgie's Crack) 5.11a, overhung corner/face straight up and then heading right from top of Jorgie's Crack. Protection is 3 updated 1/2" (formerly 1/4") bolts which diagonal right from the regular anchor chains. Above this face, follow a clean corner up and left, where some small cams and nuts can be placed in a flake to protect the second. Then traverse left to belay on top of Swallow Crack. It is also possible to go up and right across February Fools after the crux, but your rope will run directly through a large poison oak bush.
FA - Tom Rohrer, 12/67. FFA - Greg Barnes, Kris Hulvey, 3/5/99

39.9 Holiday Ordeal 5.10a tr, climbs the face just left of the Ordeal corner, to the chains halfway up Ordeal. Can start by stemming left from the pedestal (start of Ordeal), or can be extended lower by starting with a high reach to a pocket with the right hand, and a bulbous edge with the left.
FA(tr) - Robert Behrens, 1/01

50.9 Horizon Line Variation 5.10a, Traverse right under rooflets where the popular Lost Horizons exit cuts left to the Stupendous Man anchors. Pull the small roofs with a finger crack about six feet into the traverse (5.9+ PG). Climb large knobs until you reach the fat crack above. Follow the crack to the no hands stance at the top of a pillar, clip the bolt over your head and do the 5.10a boulder exit or skip the bolt and walk off left. Use the obvious oak tree for an anchor. Judicious use of long runners and pro placement creates a moderately straight rope line of approximately 130 feet.
FA - Steve Dalleske and Sharon Marquedtson, 4/01

51. Lost Horizons 5.8 *, the original second pitch of this route does not go up the face above the Stupendous Man anchors, but goes out right below an overhang to a bolt and a ledge. Then up the left-leaning wide crack and ramp above to belay on top at a large oak. [BY]

51.5 Horizon Line Direct 5.10c PG+, Climb the hand crack on the left wall of the cave to the right of Mammary Pump's start (.9). Jam and layback the small roof crack to reach a flared right leaning finger crack. Pull the roof (.10c) and climb cobbles to the alcove above. Ascend the flared squeeze above to a stance at the foot of the Lost Horizons book. Climb the book and continue to the top on Horizon Line or exit left to Stupendous Man's anchors.
A.K.A. Fried Chicken (in reference to both the awesome lunch and the poor sap who was delivered to Stupendous Man's anchors after his ordeal)
* Words of warning* Protecting this route is extremely difficult. It leaves behind the scope of expert and enters the realm of suicidal.
story / trip report
FA - Steve Dalleske and Kelly Rich, 5/01

The Back Door

70.9 The Behr-ens of Sanity 5.5 R, left of Limp at Last. There are three distinct knobs that can be slung at 1/2 height, a few feet below the baby-roof. However, none are stellar tie-offs. Continue straight up past the baby roof and right angling ramp to finish by the bush, left of the anchors. Anchor off of the same bolts as Limp at Last. Be very careful not to drop or knock anything off onto the trail below.
First Lead - Robert Behrens, 11/00

The Monolith

79.6 Gorillas in the Moss 5.12d, 8x, 25' L of Ape Index, possibly 5.13a for people under 5'10".
Pull the balancey crux at the second bolt. Be careful not to step on the delicate micro crimp that makes the crux possible (between 2nd and 3rd bolt). Fun 5.11 pockets and knobs take you to the sixth bolt. Two more bolts of 5.12 climbing take you to the lip. Be careful not to step on those important handholds (even with the sixth bolt) as you pull yourself over the lip. Easy climbing on good holds takes you to the top of the Monolith.
This route stays wet much longer than normal, so it shouldn't be climbed for at least 4 days after a rain.
FA - Karl Aguilar, 4/8/04, all bolts placed on lead from stance and aid.

86.9 POD Eliminate Left 5.11b tr, i.e. tr just left of the POD holds

87.1 POD Eliminate Right 5.11a tr

88.5 Hawaiian Tango 5.10d tr, start on Hawaiian Noises, and follow Indirect Traverse a bit to the right, until you reach a big pocket. Go directly over the bulge above the pocket, avoiding a large (loose?) knob. Finish at the high chains for Subterranean Tango.

95.4 Identity Crisis 5.12d, links the crux of Hot Lava Lucy (5.12c) and second crux of Yo Mama.
FA - Chris Sharma, ~3/96

95.5 Yo Mama 5.12c, 5x, then join Cantaloupe Death. If you're tall, you can skip the initial crux move via a long step-across (there is still a 5.11+ thin move -- pulling up on a small sloping hold).
FA(tr) - Clint Cummins, 1993 (using step-across, placed 2nd bolt)
FL - Chris Sharma, ~3/96 (from lower down)

95.7 Uebermensch 5.14a, 5x, on arete just left of Lard Butt
FA - Chris Sharma, ~3/96

99.1 Why We Play Football 5.9 tr, center of face of block to the right of Future Shock. Starts with a powerful move off the lower block above the cave. Anchor from a tree rather far back from the edge. There is a hangerless 1/4" bolt near the top of the block which might be useful as a directional anchor.
FA - Darren and Brendon Finnecy, 8/96

99.2 Ally's Oop 5.8 tr, right side of face
FA - Darren and Brendon Finnecy, 8/96

99.6 La Lin~a Mas Natural 5.8 R/X, skip the last 2 bolts of The Pearl Sheath and finish up the mossy arete instead. (Unfortunately there is no protection).
FA - Robert Behrens, Doug Londgren, 11/00

Reservoir / The Sisters

117.1 Backside Route 4th class, the easy chute on the south face of The Love Handles makes a fun family outing. The crux is the approach -- the trail on the north side of the Sisters is quite steep/eroded, while the trail along the south side of the Sisters has a dicey 3rd class ramp.

123.2 Heaven's Gate 5.9, 7x. South arete of Little Sister Spire. Starts on big ledge above 3rd class approach on left (beware of poison oak in the crack between this ledge and the face). Loose between 3rd and 5th bolts. Sling horn above 5th bolt, then stand on horn and reach way left to clip 6th bolt. Descent: 80' rappel down the west face. A little runout, with a few loose holds that should stablize after a little traffic. The position is nice, but the rock quality is disappointing (this statement applies to many Pinnacles routes...).
FA - Brad Young, Jim Lundeen 3/97

formation NW of Hatchet

127.8 Jingus 5.8 A2, aid up crack on right side of east face, then free climb past bulge with slung knobs for protection. No anchors on top; descend 4th class south ridge past old bolts. The rock was too crumbly to encourage a serious free climbing attempt. Gear: Lowe balls to #4.5 Camalot.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins 2/2000

Gertie's Pinnacle

128.4 new route 5.7, 3x, one move, on South Face [BY]

128.5 new route 5.10a, 5x, mantle. 5th bolt is on the low angle ridge near the anchors [BY]

128.6 new route 5.8, 5x, roofs [BY]

129.5 Gertie's Direct East Face 5.9 tr, 2 good pumpy bulges
FA(tr) - Clint Cummins, Nancy Kerrebrock, 11/95

130.5 old route 5.9, 1x, on South face of small knob 150' E of Gertie's Pinnacle, 80' downhill from the highest clump of rocks above Gertie's.

Crud and Mud

137.5 new route 5.7? 1x. On NW corner of formation (near lowest point, behind big pine tree). 1 bolt 8' off ground, then 60' of soloing to 2 bolt belay. Recently bolted; perhaps it's a route in progress. Not worth the approach.

The Frog

approach map (55KB)
141.5 old route 5.8 *, 8x, 1 fixed pin. Between Atlas Shrugs and MaGootchey Bird Chimney is a moss-filled, shallow crack/trough. Start just left of the trough; up 20' to the first bolt. Climb more in the trough on cleaner rock past a second bolt in a large knob to a fixed pin. Three bolts protect a headwall, and another 3x protect easier ground to the Atlas Shrugs anchors. [BY]

143.5 Volcanic Panic 5.10d *, 6x. Start in the shallow dihedral of Fear and Perspiration, up to where some 3/4-1" TCUs can be placed. F+P traverses right here to a groove. Instead of traversing, go straight up/left six feet to the first bolt, then up to a ledge. Climb up through the bulge overhead, on great jugs and incut holds. A final headwall leads to a long 4th class slab. You can clip an old "RK" bolt on top of a ramp on the right (part of Dirty Bird Crack). Then up a final 5.4 headwall to a notch, with the shared ring bolt belay of Ski Jump and Lonesome Dove. A 150' rappel reaches the ground.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins, 1/2000

144.5 Ten Percent Inspiration (90% Perspiration) 5.10a R *, 6x. Direct start to Fear and Perspiration on arete (4 new bolts for start).
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins, 6/96

145.9 Get a Grip 5.10a ***, 6x, 80'. Clip first bolt on Pinch Gripped, and continue straight up (instead of diagonalling right). Second bolt is slightly hidden up and left, above huge knob. A few nuts and TCUs are useful for protecting the moderate final section to the anchor. Steep and sustained on knobby solid rock.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins, 4/96

The Hand

150.8 Love Line 5.10c R. This invigorating route ascends the steep East Face of The Hand. The line starts at the base of the same water chute that emerges from the top of the regular Salathe' route.
Pitch 1: Climb the left side of the water chute past 8 bolts to a comfy two-bolt belay in an alcove, the Love Seat. 5.10c PG, 80'.
Pitch 2: Climb past 8 bolts and a fixed stopper to the top of the wall and two-bolt belay. 5.10c R, 90'. The second pitch joins Wilts Bolt Variation for the last few moves. This pitch traverses quite a bit; the last four or five bolts need full-length runners. From the fourth bolt, go straight up to find the hidden fifth bolt (1 1/2 foot runner on this bolt helps). Straight left from the fifth brings you over to the sixth bolt, also a bit hidden. Some knobs can be slung on your way through this most amazing pitch.
FA - Steve Dalleske, Kelly Rich, and Lou Renner (on Pitch 1), 4/01 [FoP]
story / trip report

The Outcast

171.5 Rock Naked 5.8 R/X, 70'. On the fan-shaped SouthWest face. This face is in shadow in the photo on p.71 of the 1991 guidebook. Climb up the center of the face. Above is a large block with a water streak to the right. Climb up right side of water streak, and traverse left when level with top of block. Gain ledge, then sunbathe. Lead protection is skimpy - slung knobs.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, 9/97

Knuckle Ridge

175.2 [175a.5] Aqua Cruda 5.10d, 5x, thin corner system (gear), left side of a bulge, to a short headwall/streak. (just left of Edge of Sundown)
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, David Wood, 3/96

Marmot Rock Area

185.5 newly found route 5.6, 4x, 30' left of On a Pale Horse. 65' high, 2x on top. [BY]

189.1 newly found route 5.8 R, 3x, just right of Only a Lad, left of the dirty/wide diagonal crack. Chain anchors on top. [BY]

189.4 newly found route 5.8 R, 3x, right of the dirty/wide diagonal crack. 75' high, 2x on top. [BY]

Yaks Wall

199. White Punks on Rope 5.11a, 11x
FA - James McConachie, Dennis Erik Strom, 12/01

203.7 Ashes to Ashes, Dust to Dust 5.10b, 3 pitches, 9x, 1 fixed pin. Route is just left of Naked Lunge.
p1: Goes up a short undulating water streak (1x) to a right facing corner/chimney scramble (1 fixed pin) to belay on top of a large block (2x).
p2: Up a steep, thin, gray water streak past 3x to a narrow ledge with a 2x belay.
p3: Up steep head wall past 2x, move up and left past another bolt, then up water water streak past one more bolt and then a 35' funout to the top (2x belay).
FA(p1, p2, part of p3) - James McConachie, Karl McConachie, Jon McConachie, 1/1/94
FA(entire route) - James McConachie, Dennis Erik Strom, Brad Young, 12/28/00

207.5 Terminal Buttress - Lost Again variation 5.9, goes roughtly up the line shown for 207a in the guidebook - up a left facing corner, left of a chimney, and then back right to the chimney at a fixed pin and 7' x 3' hole right of the chimney. At a small tree in the chimney, it goes up a crack in the left wall of the chimney to the top. The crux is on the first pitch (regular Terminal Buttress route).
Note: The McConachie-Barbella variation (route 207a) leaves the first pitch of the Terminal Buttress after the 3rd fixed pin and fixed stopper, and goes up the face to the right of the chimney system, using cams in pockets for protection. It goes into the chimney at the fixed pin by the 7' x 3' hole mentioned above, and finishes in the chimney.
FA (Lost Again) - Brad Young, Dennis Erik Strom, 11/00

Chalone Peak Trail - Cortadura Wall

Hike south on the Chalone Peak Trail, uphill past Gertie's Pinnacle, about 10 minutes to a ridge trail that leads north towards the Yaks. This ridge trail is a better approach to Kasparek's and Yaks than the trail shown in the guidebook. Just south past this trail junction is an east-facing wall with a midway ledge. This is Cortadura Wall. If you hike even further on the Chalone Peak Trail, you will find the best approach to the Rubble Wall (routes 158-162 topo).

220.5 Carpet Cleaner 5.1 R, thick moss but clean rock. Left of Armed with Madness is a boulder choked chimney. This is the gully/waterstreak left of the chimney.
FA - Robert Behrens (solo), 3/12/99

220.6 Armed with Madness 5.10d, starts at the left side in the bottom of a groove with a bush at the top. Start off the trail boulder up past the bush and gain ledge. Up above there is a waterchute that splits in two. go up the right side to the right hand waterchute. 10c. Pro thin #0 TCU to 1.5 Friend plus 4.5 Friend (or #4 Camalot) for bottom of wide crack. It is possible to get an armbar and cut loose with both feet and wave at the belayer with the other hand.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Matt Eastman, Robert Behrens, 12/19/99

220.7 Stone Crazy 5.9 or 5.10a, To the right of Armed with Madness is a right facing corner this is Stone Crazy. Go up corner to ledge to the right is a short steep groove. 5.9 or 5.10a thin (steep) to chimney.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Robert Behrens, 3/12/99

East Side trail to High Peaks

222.2 Fallout 5.8?, moderate boulder problem, right of Mushroom Cloud [FoP]

Pipsqueak Pinnacle

overview map and topo
225.2 Scragglepuss 5.7, 4x, right of Rightfoot on Pipsqueak Pinnacle
FA - Robert Behrens, Brad Young, David Sawaya, Doug Londgren, 3/01

226.5 The Bazaar 5.9+, the crack can easily be seen from the start of the Unmentionable approach trail. It is directly across the trail and up the hill 100yds. The start is about 50' up and left from the lowest point on the formation. Climb face up and right to a pocket that takes a 4.5 Camalot then climb up to a left facing corner crack. Then climb a face to the summit.

226.9 The Unmentionable - Erectile Dysfunction 5.10a, 4x
Left of the regular route, up the line of the rappel from the anchors.
Could it have been bolted on lead?
FL(bolts placed on rappel) - R.J. La Lumiere, Chris Sheldon, 2/02

231.2 Pinched and Lynched 5.6, 3x, Pinch or Lynch Wall, ten meters or so before and above the start of Pinch or Lynch. One pitch, some loose rock, runout. 3 bolts (rawl 3/8's) placed from stance. Small to medium flex friends and aliens are essential after the 2nd bolt. A #2 or #3 Camalot can be placed six feet below the highest bolt.
FA - Bob Walton and Geoff Wycoff, 1/1/2000

Sew What Needles

This is a group of 3 small pinnacles about 100' up the trail from the small tunnel, with tops 10' above and 30' east of the trail. The rock is rotten; they are listed here just as a record of what has (apparently) been climbed.

The southern pinnacle has a see-through "Eye" chimney, easily visible in the lower left corner of the photo of Salathe's Sliver.

231.4 Needle's Eye 5.7, up somewhat loose chimney on S side of southern pinnacle. When the chimney curves left, go out right on a ramp to a 2x belay (1 hangerless). (No need to stop here; the whole route can be done in a single pitch). Then roughly straight up. It might also be possible to follow the chimney to its end, and then go straight up the face, but this face is very loose and probably 5.7.

231.5 Needle's Edge 5.7, on the face/arete right of the chimney on the southern pinnacle. Starts from a bolt just right of the base of the chimney, above an ominous poison oak bush. The face can be protected by medium cams in pockets. Eventually, reach the ramp to the old 2x belay (1 hangerless), as in the previous route.

231.6 Needless 5.7 R, up chimney on N side of the middle pinnacle. Past a hangerless 1/4" bolt, then step across to the runout mossy slab. 1x (poor) on top.

231.7 Threadbare 5.7? X?, the northern pinnacle. No bolts on top (anchor a rope to a tree at the base, and rappel off the opposite side). The route may be up the Needless chimney on the S side, but no protection bolts are visible, and the rock is rotten. (update in progress).

233.1 Generation Gap Pinnacle - Quick Route 5.9 tr, a simple 1 move boulder problem on the SW face gains the summit, avoiding the long scramble to the base of 232. If you're tall enough, you can toprope it by clipping the rappel slings. Could be considered the summit finish for Thin Man.

235.1 Nelson's Needle - Tree Route 5.5? X, climbing the face "behind the tree" (between 235 and 235.2) was listed as an alternative route in old guidebooks. Be prepared for no pro up high, and a good backscratching from the tree, if you want to try it.

235.2 Nelson's Needle - West Face 5.5 X, the "rappel route" has been soloed, and was listed in older guidebooks as an alternative lead route. A bolt kit is recommended if you are considering leading it.

Condor Gulch

map of Hippopotamus areas

Hate & Discontent

This crag is 100 yards SE of the Hippopotamus, and faces Hip Hip Hooray and Hippo Stomp. topo

243.2 Hate 5.10b, 5.10b bouldering start to 5.8 lieback
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Andy Gardner, 11/98

243.3 Discontent 5.10c, sustained crack. gear: #4 stopper, 2x 1.5 cam, 1-2, 1-2.5 or 1-2.5 and one #1 camalot, 1-3, 1-4, plus more thin pieces
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Kelly Rich, 2/01

Carrion Wall

This crag is immediately left (S) of the Hippopotamus. topo

243.6 Raven Rot 5.6, left facing corner, right traverse
FA - Robert Behrens, Mark Abbott, 2/99

243.7 Buzzard Bile 5.6, right facing arch/crack, roof, face. TCU, #1 Camalot, or maybe stopper.
FA - Robert Behrens, Mark Abbott, 2/99

243.8 Vulture Vomit 5.10 tr, face
FA - Robert Behrens, Mark Abbott, 2/99


246.4 Holmgren route 5.10?, on the Hippopotamus north face, up and right from the start of "Hippopotamus", and just right of 2 old pins and 2 old bolts on a yellow lichen wall. p1: "lightning bolt" crack 5.9, 80'. p2: 3x in face above (2 are 5/16" rawl with brown painted hangers). Third bolt has been replaced (now 3/8" Rawlbolt). This is the high point (pitch is unfinished). We are checking with Holmgren to see if he's still working on it.
FA - (likely) Jack Holmgren (he has used this type of bolt and hangers)

246.6 Crazy Quail 5.8 *, up and left of the Wild Turkey flake, on a large boulder/rock formation there is a water chute with a crack in it about 40-50 feet long. It takes good gear.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Robert Behrens, 2/99

Dutch Goose crag


246.7 Tom Turkey 5.4, crack or arete on left side of Wild Turkey flake. 30' long.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Robert Behrens, 2/99

246.8 Wild Turkey 5.10b R, left of Dutch Goose, and just off the photo. A right-leaning thin crack which eventually widens to a lieback flake. From near the top of the flake, diagonal out right up the 5.5 face. No bolts - a cool head is needed to carefully place the gear and to avoid falling. Starts from a narrow grassy terrace with a small (2" diameter) belay tree.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins, 1/99

247.5 new route 5.9, 8x, slab right of Dutch Goose, which starts from the right side, at the ledge area above the initial chimney of Don Genaro's Waterfall (approach from the trail above and right). The last 7 bolts are in a straight line above the number "248" on the photo of Dutch Goose in the guidebook, starting above the left end of a horizontal crack. Starting from the ledge, place a cam in a big pocket, and traverse left to a black waterstreak with a bolt. Up the streak and out left at the horizontal crack to the line of bolts. Ends at a 2 bolt anchor on top of the formation; easy to set up a toprope.
FA - unknown, 90s

West Side

261.8 The Big Bad West 5.4, 5x
FA: Jon Cochran, Kurt Cochran, Rose Cochran, 1/99
This short route follows the water streak 20 ft to the left of Passion Play to a 3x belay. The rock is solid and due to the bolt placed every 5 or 6 feet it would make an excellent beginner lead. Initially established in 1999 with removable bolts for use with beginners, permanent bolts were added later in response to demand.

West Split Boulder

Just north of the high point of the trail, north of The Shepherd. Routes are on the north side.
These routes were established first as boulder problems, and then bolted on aid.

262.4 No Plan B 5.9/5.10a, 4x, to 2x anchor shared with Leprechaun + Rumple.
FA: Josh Carter, Jon Cochran, 1/03

262.5 Leprechaun 5.10d, 4x
FA: Jon Cochran, Josh Carter, 1/03

262.6 Rumplestiltskin 5.9/5.10a, 4x
FA: Jon Cochran, David Cochran, 1/00

262.7 middle problem 5.10?
FA(boulder pad): Jeff Lane, Robert Behrens, 3/03

262.8 Curvature 5.9/5.10a, 2x, 20' high
FA: Jon Cochran, Geoff Norris, Caleb Rightbottom, David Cochran, 1/00
Ascend the NW face of a boulder directly next to a large Bull Pine tree. Solo some 5.9 moves off the ground, until the 2 bolts are reached on easy ground near the top. 2x on top. Downclimb off the south side.


274.9 Hand Tools 5.8/5.10a, 1x. An alternate start to Power Corrupts, from the left side. It reduces the grade of that pitch to 5.10a. (5.10a at the end of the pitch, if you go out right of the last bolt, vs. 5.10b if you go up the arete above the bolt). More bolts could be placed, to make it a separate pitch, but it's so close to Power Corrupts that it does not seem worth it.
FA - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins, 4/2000

back on main trail

277.5 Big Nixon 5.9, 4x. Begins in the creekbed 50 meters upstream from the bouldering rock. Climb the south facing wall past four 3/8" bolts to the top, then anchoring from the large pine tree. To avoid the 5.9 crux above the last bolt, move right for the Little Richard variation (5.7).
FA - Craig Seelig, Robert Bechtol, 3/00 [FoP]

282.8 Stretch Seven 5.7, 7x, climbs the south face of the formation above and right (south) of the Game Show. Can approach via the Machete Ridge trail, by going to between the Son of Dawn Wall and Desperado Chute-out, then dropping down. But would be shorter to approach from the main trail if there is no fence blocking the way. topo

Flumes Formation, SE face

288.2 Romper Room 5.10+, 7x, 75' right of Drizzly Drain
1st crux: in runout between 1st and 2nd bolts - overhanging and technical on big holds.
2nd crux: in runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts - thin, reachy and steep on small holds, leading to a tough clip.
Bolted entirely from free stances. Some loose rock. 2 bolts with rappel hangers at a mossy overhang are the end of the pitch. [BW]
FA - Jon Cochran, Bob Walton, 3/29/03

Flumes Formation, NE face

topo color photo
288.4 Wet Paranoia 5.9 tr, 90' high. Begin 15-20 left of start of Bits n' Pieces and climb to anchors for Bits n' Pieces Direct Finish. Lots of loose rock on middle third of climb (scary). Belayer should be way right of start; good idea to have helmet.
FA - Robert Zambetti, 1/2000

288.6 Bits n' Pieces Direct Finish 5.8, 2x plus 2 Fixe ring anchors. Go directly up and slightly left of the 6th bolt of "Bits n' Pieces", before it traverses right. The anchors are 90' from ground.
FA - Robert Zambetti, 1/2000

288.7 Kibbles and Bits 5.9, 5x, starts 20 feet to the right of Bits 'N Pieces, which it joins at the its traverse bolt.
FA - Danny Mckeever, Eric Ishikawa, 1/2000 [FoP]

288.8 Jumangi 5.10a, 5x, starts 30 feet left of Tilting Terrace. It has a commiting start in a short flared crack and continues up a steep face to the crux between the forth and fifth bolt.
FA - Danny Mckeever, Eric Ishikawa, 2/2000 [FoP]

288.9 Rebecca's Sailing 5.9 **, 6x to chains, extension to Bits 'n Pieces. Well protected, on nice solid rock. Possible to avoid final crux overhang with 5.4 traverse. 3x placed on lead from stance, 3x on rappel. Originally rated 5.9+; a later ascent thought both it and Bits 'n Pieces were about 5.8.
FA - Michael Brodesky, Inez Drixelius, 12/95

289.1 new route 5.7/5.8, 4-5x. From the top of the first pitch of Tilting Terrace, go straight up the 60' face above (between p2 of Tilting Terrace, and Adam's Apple).
FA - Danny McKeever, Dan ____?, 2/03

289.2 Nipples and Knobs 5.10a, 7x. Start at the base of Tilting Terrace and continue directly up the steep face. Clip the first bolt on Tilting Terrace and then follow six more bolts to a two bolt anchor with chain. Steep exciting climbing on prominent features makes for a fun lead. The first four bolts were placed off of hooks and the route completed on lead and the last two were later added for safety.
FA - Danny McKeever, Andy Shillabeer and Eric Ishikawa, 4/2000 [FoP]

289.3 new route (Just Knobs?) 5.7/5.8 R *, 3x. Starts with 2 new bolts right of Tilting Terrace, then joins Nipples and Knobs at its last bolt. Fun, with solid good knobs if you traverse low enough.
FA - Jon Cochran, Bob Walton, 8/2003
photo Jon Cochran climbing above the second bolt

289.5 Lichen to Lead 5.6 R Starts 20' right of Tilting Terrace. There is a single old bolt which can be used to belay the first pitch. Climb up a slab just right of a chimney about 40' to a small ledge with 1 bolt. Climb 15' further to a second bolt and then move left into a groove (pro to 2"). Climb up the groove to a 2 bolt belay at an obvious low angle section. p2: climb up and right onto big knobs (slings). From the highest knob climb up past 1 bolt to a ledge with 2 newer belay bolts. 3rd class up and off from here. [BY]

289.6 new route 5.5? Use the first 2 bolts of Lichen to Lead (the second bolt was replaced by Cochran), and continue straight up 20' to a new 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor (the rappel should be about 75').
FA - Jon Cochran, Bob Walton, 8/2003


300. Conduit to the Cosmos 5.11 A1 or A4+, 3rd pitch now completed to the top of the Balconies, 11x, 115' to rap anchors. 5.11 to the 4th bolt, then A1 with stick clip or A4+ (technical dif) with hooks for 15 or so feet past 3 bolts, and 5.10 for the remaining 60 feet.
more details
FA(p3) - James McConachie, John Barbella, Karl McConachie, Jon McConachie, Bill McConachie, 5 days of work spread over 14 years, finished 9/2002.

312.5 Stiletto 5.10d, 8x, climbs the SE arete of Knifeblade. The first pitch starts on S face, L of arete. Up bulge at bolt, then diagonal left past a second bolt and a small ledge to a groove. The groove is a 5.10a hand crack, dirty and somewhat crumbly; #4.5 Camalot useful. The groove ends at a grassy ledge with a 2 bolt belay. The second pitch goes up a finger crack (large stoppers) to the arete, then up huecos on the east (right) side of the arete past 7x. The second pitch is quite nice (** or ***) - well protected on excellent rock. The first pitch is rather unpleasant.
FA - Norman Boles, John Gotti, 1988

Machete Ridge

339.2 Barber's Backside 5.6, 2x. It is possible to reverse the rappel and gully descent from below the Middle Tower on Old Original. That is, take the caves trail to the north end of Machete Ridge and scramble south up the descent gully and up the grassy area to below the 80' rappel. Climb up this unprotected pitch (east face). This route was described in Roper's guide (1965), and was not recommended because it was so short (relative to Old Original). A belay bolt and 2 protection bolts were added to pitch in 1970 by Kent Barber, during work after a fatal accident which had occurred on an attempted rappel of the west face.

topo of Machete Ridge NE descent

Instructions could be improved (in the Guide Book) regarding the descent from the Gulley to the Caves. "Continue NE from the bottom of the gulley across a small meadow to the base of a rock wall (short hand traverse) until it is possible to follow boulders down to the eastern entrance to the Caves."

348.4 Trident 5.8, just left of Alias Bandits Bench (at the top of the knoll), a direct start to the Bandits Bench belay. It is protected with a Stopper, a TriCam and slinging a big knob (just before mantling it).
FA - Larry Arthur and partner, Spring/81

348.5 newly bolted route 5.9 *, 13x. Starts the same as Trident, just left of Alias Bandit Bench. Ends at the anchors for Alias Bandit Bench. Fairly nice. Probably is a retrobolted version of Trident. [FoP, RB, BY]

350.5 Bandits in Bondage - second pitch 5.11, 6x to a 2x chained belay.
Good, hard moves. A #1.5 or #2 Friend is recommended in the pocket below the 3rd bolt.
FA - James McConachie, Dennis Erik Strom, 3/30/02
The first 3 bolts were placed by McConachies in the late 80s

354.1 new route 5.5, 8x. Ten feet right of the base of Dos Equis (aka "Destiny"), just left of a Digger pine. Camouflaged hangers. [RB]

354.2 Beyond Destiny 5.7, 8x. Just right of the Digger pine, 30' right of the base of Dos Equis, is a line of rusty bolts. Climb up to the 3rd bolt, and then straight up past 5 more (newer) bolts. 2x, walk off to descend. This is a direct version of Triple X. TCUs and FCUs can be used to supplement protection in three separate spots.
FA - Craig Seelig, 6/00. Placed bolts #6-8. [FoP, BY]

354.3 Triple X 5.7, 8x, climb as for Beyond Destiny, but from the 3rd bolt, continue up and right, paralleling a seam that is obvious from the ground. At the 7th bolt, continue straight up past one more bolt to the same anchors as for Beyond Destiny. Gear to 2". [BY]

354.9 Robots of Dawn 5.11a, 7x, 15-20' left of Son of Dawn Wall. 65-70' to rap anchors. It is also possible to make a long, loose traverse right from the anchors to join Son of Dawn Wall.
Could it have been bolted on lead?
FL(bolts placed on rappel) - Robert Zambetti, Janice Hirata, 9/2000

355.2 Sons of the West 5.10d A1, obvious multipitch waterchute right of Son of Dawn Wall.
p1: 5.9, 50', crack system left of the aid line.
p2: A1, 40' bolt ladder, many bolts, 1 rivet.
p3: 5.10d, 110', crux at last 3x, many bolts.
p4: 5.9, 100', crux off belay, up face to chimney, many bolts, last bolt protects 5.8 bulge, up large water gorove to belay bolt at top.
p5: 5.?, 120' to summit, one bolt 6' above belay (highest new bolt), one old StarDryvin bolt with SMC hanger 40' up. Apparently continues to top via runout face.
Originally, it was called The Waterchute, and it traversed left to connect to the upper pitches of Son of Dawn Wall. This is according to the register entry by Al Swanson. Other folks are not sure if this traverse is feasible. Since 1984, it has been extended to reach the top.
FA(finish on Son of Dawn Wall) - Al Swanson, 1/28/1984
FA(direct finish) - Mark K. Howe, Dave Melrose, Seth Delis, Eric Berghold, 9/02

Western Front

364.6 Cat & Mouse 5.5, 2p, 6x
FA: Kate Cochran, Jon Cochran, 1/99
This route is located on the northern arete of the Western Front formation. Due to the lack of protection on the second pitch it is recommended that you rappel after pitch 1.
p1: 5.5, 6x, climb 50+ ft. on reasonably solid rock to a 2x belay.
p2: 5.0 X, climb 100 ft on loose rock to a 2x belay.
CAUTION! There is little or no pro on this pitch; a slip on loose rock would definitely result in serious injury or death.

364.8 Barry Beat Me To It A1, 3x
FA: Jon Cochran, 8/00
Two mushroom formations stand side by side at the north-western toe of Western Front. Just downhill from the start of I.C.B.M. The route ascends the rightmost mushroom (when looking uphill). Spiral up and left past 3 bolts to a double bolt anchor. (This formation was soloed by Barry Bates in 1968! Go Barry.)

Resurrection Wall

367.5 Le Petite Morte 5.10c, 4x
FA: Mei Xi, Dennis Erik Strom, Robert Behrens, 11/05
A waterstreak on the south face of Resurrection Wall.
Mei's trip report and photos

High Peaks

390.1 Punctuation Pinnacle 5.1 X, 40' SW of Possibility Pinnacle, 2x on top. [BY]

411.3 Angle Iron 5.10+, 5x, on West face of the Flatiron. Starts with a very difficult step across from the block at the NW corner; this move is well protected by a bolt. Runout at present above the fifth bolt; a bolt may be added here. Bolted free from stance.
FA: Jon Cochran, Bob Walton, 4/6/03 [BW]

The next few routes were mentioned in previous guides, but were left out of the Rubine guides (either because they were of marginal value, or by mistake (418.1)).

414.1 South Finger - NS Chimney 5.7? tr, difficult exit move

414.2 South Finger - Tyrolean Traverse A2, the first ascent route (from the North Finger)

414.3 South Finger - Leap 4th class R, (also from the North Finger) Perhaps this should be considered the FFA of the Tyrolean!

415.1 North Finger - NS Chimney 5.7? tr, difficult exit move

418.1 North Finger - North Side 5.7, Start 150' down from the trail on the north side. p1: 120' dirty crack (5.7) to a bolt at the shoulder. p2: 4th class up west ridge to the top. [BY]
FA - Gary Colliver, Glen Denny, 12/73

425.3 Condor Condom Condiment -- 3rd pitch var. 5.9+
The original 3rd pitch attains its crux to the left of the wall in a patch of fairly terrible rock. This variation goes well to the right of the original route and ascends somewhat better rock through an overhang. [BW]
FA - Jack Holmgren, Bob Walton, 9/95

440b. Got You 5.6, 2x (star dryvin 1/4"). An old route on the east face of the formation which has Catch Me. [RB]

445.5 Miss Piggy 5.5, 3x, pinnacle immediately to NE of Spike's Peak. Approach as for Spike's Peak, but bear right down the gully. Stop when you reach a medium-sized oak bush in front of a digger pine. Face the wall to the West and you should be able to spot the first bolt about six meters up. The rock is pretty good, though mossy in spots. Small to medium Lowe tricams (.5 to 1.5) or equivalent Aliens will greatly supplement the protection. A #1 Camalot about fifteen feet up protects to the first bolt. Two bolts and natural pro get you past a bulge. After one more bolt, scramble up and left to a two bolt belay. A rappel or downclimb gets you to the ground. [BW]
FA - Bob Walton, Audrey Miller, John Miller, 1/03

458.5 Frosted Flake 5.6, 3x, 2x anchor on top. The climb is located between Corn Flake to the west and Frothy Flake to the north. Begin in the cleft between Frothy Flake and Frosted Flake on the east side of the formations. Chimney sideways 25 feet to a bolt at the base of a water streak on the north face. Climb up 8 feet to another bolt which is hard to see from below. Continue straight up 30 feet to a bolt at the base of an arete. Climb the arete for 15 feet to the summit. A 50-foot rappel to the northeast returns one to the base of the climb.
FA - Bruce Hildenbrand, Frost Saufley 12/08/2003.

465.1 Squareblock Sock Hop 5.9+ R *, east face, 3x placed from stance. Place an Alien, Lowe tricam, or TCU in the pocket above the second bolt to protect the crux overhang. The best route on Squareblock. The original attempt featured the use of wool socks over climbing shoes (old British technique for wet rock). [BW]
FA - Jack Holmgren, Bob Walton, 1/90

465.2 new route 5.10a, 4 5/16" bolts on W face of 50' rock 150' NE of Squareblock Rock. The original attempt on this route was made a few months earlier, with snow on the ground, and failed due to verglas! One old bolt was found on top. [BW, BY]
FA - Jack Holmgren, Bob Walton, 4/14/90

468.5 old route 5.7, 4x, on a formation below the Ball Pinnacle. Starts up a right-diagonalling crack, then past 1 or 2x to a groove with 2 1/4" hangerless bolts. Finally traverse past 2 pitons in holes to a 2-bolt belay. Rappel 60' to the ground, as the rock deteriorates at this point.
FA - Norman Boles, Joe Thursten, 1981

Leads/major corrections to old routes:

3. Grand Delusion 5.11a, now free. (formerly named Delusion Overhang).
Climb the slab 75' left of Anchors Away to the obvious roof crack that is three feet right of Bridwells Delusion Overhangs. Avoiding the loose cinder blocks makes for an exciting .10a slab move into the crack where three stacked tiers push the roof about 8' out over your head.
Description of how it was toproped: Bomber underclings gain access to a giant and spooky jug that must be fully committed to in order to find the invisible holds in the second tier. The crux is pulling the second tier and due to a lack of footholds we both adopted an awkward move that required us to scum our whole body across a small sloping ramp and slap blindly over our heads for a purchase (PUMPY). The third tier is just a groveling race against a substantial pump, up and over large rounded bulge. Rock quality is surprisingly good and this is by far the steepest 5.11 in the park. It's like a tamer version of Forty Days Of Rain. Note: there may be 2 old aid routes in this area, judging from the fixed pins in place. It is not clear which route was the original Delusion Overhang.
FFA(tr) - Adam Long, Steve Dalleske, 11/01
FFL - Dennis Erik Strom, 12/01
Note on style of first free lead: Dennis first tried it several times onsight (although with the above written beta), but did not make it. He then toproped it. A week later, he led it free, using clean pro and not clipping the existing fixed pins. He did not clean off loose rock until after he had led it (although the people who toproped it first may have cleaned it some).
photos 1-3 photos 4-5 photos 6-8

247. Dutch Goose 5.10b, now free. Initial flake is 5.9, then 5.10b getting past a fixed pin in the main bulge. There is an old bolt in the chimney when it starts to widen.
FFA - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins 1/99

311. Better Without Bushes 5.9, now free. (formerly named Crack Climb). A bolt was added between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, since the rock was a bit loose and it was not possible to fix a piton. The former 3rd bolt was replaced. It now has 4 bolts and a fixed pin for the loose exit moves. The upper part of the route is 5.7 - 5.8. Gear: doubles on medium cams, a few small cams, and 4.5 and 5 camalot.
FFA - Dennis Erik Strom, Steve Wilcox 1/01

427. The Great Chimney 5.9, (on Condor Crags) now goes free at 5.9. Throw in a couple of TCUs #1-3, stoppers (for crux) and rack and good stemming skills, stretch out for this one. Formerly a single aid move.
FFA - Brad Young, Robert Behrens 1/12/97
Note: this route may have been freed in the mid 80s. Checking sources to confirm.

Other Guidebook Corrections

7a. Angstroms Away, has 2 bolts, not 3.

25a. Fat Lip 5.11, 2x is *left* of Portent

26a. Labor of Love 5.11b **, is *right* of Portent [Eric Brand's route]

99a. The Pearl Sheath 5.10b, is overstarred (contrived) [EB]

124. and 126a. are the same route. That is, Ghost of Tiburcio's is a rebolted version of the West Face of the 4th Sister. 3 bolts (there is a hole up high for the 4th bolt, but no bolt/hanger). Older guidebooks list 2 bolts for the West Face, so perhaps the bolts were gone for awhile but have now been replaced.

125. Fourth Sister - North Shoulder 5.1 X. There is one 4th class move down low, gaining the shoulder from a gully to the east. 4th class up the easy rib to where it steepens for the crux. At this point, you can traverse out right (S, 3rd class) to reach the notch to approach routes 122-124. If you stay on 125, there is a 1/4" hole below the crux which may have once housed a bolt, and a hangerless 3/8" bolt just above the crux.

132. Maniac's Delight - West Summit 4th class, note that the route is a separate (lower) summit from Maniac's Delight. A bolted piton is on top.

207. Terminal Buttress 5.9, route is filled with bushes, especially on the 2nd pitch. Could not find the 3rd bolt at the start of the 3rd pitch, which makes it scary. [BY]

215. Hidden Pinnacle 5.5?, tree has grown -- can step from tree directly onto summit. Not possible to bypass the tree. [BY]

236. Nelson's Needle - East Face 5.6 R+, a #1 or #2 TCU can be placed in a horizontal pocket above the bolt, which may help to protect the final loose moves.

246. The Hippopotamus 5.9 A1, the fixed stopper is likely the high point of this route. It is on the northeast face of the Hippopotamus, and is visible on the photo of The Hippopotamus formation. It starts below and slightly right of the high point of the formation (right of the low point of the formation, too). It ends about halfway up the formation, as viewed on the photo. On the topo, the length of the traverse from the last bolt to the fixed stopper is greatly exaggerated.

311. Crack Climb 5.9 A3, 180' pitch to belay at top of Hook and Drill. 3x (3rd is 45' up). [BY] (route has since been freed, see above)

351. Gary and Phyllis' Headwall 5.9, listed as "Upper Bandit Bench" in the guide. Originally led without any bolts, but Gary returned and placed them.
FA - Gary Fox, Phyllis Garcia, 1972

352b. Miller Time 5.6 R, listed as "Young in Deed" in the 1995 guide. Originally had no bolts.
FA - Art Miller and a gang of Bay Area Mtn Rescue guys, Spring/81.

354. Dos Equis 5.8 ***. This route originally had only 2 bolts, in the middle portion of the climb. The bottom was "protected" with a nut on the left sloping ledge and the top was protected at the hole with a Tri Cam. [Note: please do not remove the 2 added bolts; they see a lot of use. But do try leading the route with just the original bolts and protection.]
FA - Larry Arther, Bob Otter, 3/80

412. Long's Folly 5.8 *, the chimney can be well protected with a #2 and #3 Camalot, or 2 #3 Friends.

423. For M.E. 5.10b *, first pitch is 5.10b, second pitch is 5.10a, and has 2 more bolts than shown on the topo in the '91 guide. Due to an editing error, this topo (of routes 419-424) was left out of the '95 guide. For those who are curious, M.E. = Mary Elizabeth. [BY]

430. Sponge Direct Northeast Face has 5 bolts (not 3). The two additional (old) bolts are below the large indentation; between the first and second bolts shown on the topo.

438a. Prelude 5.10c R is a hell of lot harder than 438b Adagio 5.11a, leading or toproping. Maybe the difference is closer to 10c vs. 10d? [RB]

445a. Little Javelina, deserves 2-3 stars for its rock quality. [RB]


79.2 The second project R of Ranger Bolts is now "open" (was David Rubine's)

Changes to ratings due to broken holds

111. Cross Your Heart 5.10c [BY]

328. Even Coyotes Like it Doggie Style 5.10c (was 5.10a). Could use another bolt now, since crux is sustained thin slopers for 10' above last bolt.

368. Herchel Berchel 5.10c+ R. This route is [currently] much harder than 5.10c (crux at the bolt ladder - very hard to even get established). The very long runout above the last bolt is hard and dangerous climbing (potential 200' fall). [BY] topo

445. Spike's Peak 5.8 (was 5.6). The final headwall is a 5.8-5.9 boulder problem up flakes and a big pocket. The approach is also guarded by lush poison oak, but this can currently be avoided by a 5.5 traverse on a ledge from the right.