Smith Rock Guide

compiled by Clint Cummins, rev. 11/1/89
(somewhat outdated, but includes all the 80s classics...)

Based on:  Grullich topos, Oregon Rock (Thomas), many Climbing mags,
Metolius Dihedrals topo (Watts), Red Point guide (Staub), Harlin guide,
A5 Graphics (McMullen).  A new Smith Rock guide may be coming from
Chockstone Press -- check it out.  Uncited quotes are from Oregon Rock.
Thanks to Bob Palais and Marc Jensen for supplying some of these sources.

Notation:
  pr.   = project -- bolts placed but has not been redpointed (or TRd?)
  ch.   = cheaterstick -- advised for clipping first bolt
  R     = runout -- long fall potential
  L     = loose/bad rock (on some or all pitches)
  *     = good/recommended route (better than worthwhile)
  L *   = loose approach pitches, but good higher pitches
  5x    = 5 bolts protect the climb, usually no nuts required
  TR    = toprope
  5.11d/5.12b = opinion varies on the rating; min/max ratings given

Note:  ratings on topos may not be at actual crux location -- I have not
done many of the routes here.  This is just an interim guide until a
local climber makes a real guidebook; feel free to distribute copies.


Monkey Face East Face  (topos p.3)

1. Monkey Space 5.11b/c *, nuts to 1"
2. Pioneer Route 5.7 C1, nuts to 2.5"
3. Pioneer Route Variation 5.12d, __x
4. Close Shave 5.12c/d R, arete, __x
5. Rising Expectations 5.11d/5.12a *, nuts to 2", fingers
6. East Face 5.13c/d *, nuts to 2", 5.13a if done as 2 pitches
7. Spank the Monkey 5.12a, arete, double ropes recommended
8. North Face 5.5 C3, nuts to 1.5"

Monkey Face West Face  (p.4)

9. Northwest Passage 5.12a A0 *, nuts to 1.5", 5.7 C3 * if aided
10. West Face 5.7 C3, nuts to 1.5"
11. Pose Down 5.12c, 8x
12. Astro Monkey 5.11c/d *, nuts to 1.5", 5.6 C4 * if aided
13. Moving in Stereo 5.11d/5.12a, 6x, ch.
14. Dean's Dream 5.11c, 7x, crumbly
15. West Face Variation 5.9, nuts to 2"
16. Monkey Farce 5.10b, nuts to 1"
17. Smaug 5.10b, nuts to 2.5"
18. Godzilla 5.8, nuts to 3"
19. King Kong 5.10a, nuts to 4"
20. pr., 3x
21. Flex Your Head 5.11c, 5x, direct face start to Potential Energy
22. Potential Energy 5.10b, nuts to 4"
23. Dolf's Dihedral 5.9 *, nuts to 2", 25' hand crack on pitch 2
24. Perpetual Motion 5.9, nuts to 2"
25. Diamonds and Rust 5.8, nuts to 2"

Mesa Verde Wall (faces West)  (p.5)

26. Lichens Persuasion 5.7, nuts to 2", 2nd corner left of Trezlar
27. Trezlar 5.10a *, nuts to 2.5", hand crack in large corner, always shaded
28. Cosmos 5.10b, 6x
29. Screaming Yellow Zonkers 5.10a/b, 12x, 100' face
30. Moons of Pluto 5.10c/d, 8x, 100' arete
31. Bad Moon Rising 5.11b, 11x
32. Minas Morgul 5.11d, nuts to 2"
33. Down Syndrome 5.10a *, nuts to 1.5"
34. Tale of Two Shities 5.10a, nuts to 2"
35. Reason To Be 5.10c/d, 4x, arete
36. Reason To Be Right Wall 5.12a, __x, short face
37. Desolation Row 5.11a, nuts, solid
38. Chimney de Chelly 5.10a L, nuts to 2"
39. Unnamed Crack A 5.8, nuts
40. Cows in Agony 5.11a, 6x
41. Unnamed Crack B 5.7, nuts
42. Palo Verde 5.4 A4, rack to 1.5"
43. Western Chimneys 5.5
44. Captain Fingers 5.10a, nuts to 1"

Spiderman Buttress (faces West)  (p.6.1)

45. Necromancer 5.8, nuts to 2", L of 2 parallel cracks
46. Dr. Doom 5.9 R, nuts to 6", ow, right side of pillar
47. Death Takes a Holiday 5.12a *, 5x, overhanging
48. Cornerstone 5.11d/5.12a, 4x, arete
49. Little Feat 5.10b *, nuts 2.5", hand, loose rock below, RF corner
50. In Harm's Way 5.7, nuts to 1", 4x
51. Out of Harm's Way 5.8, nuts, 6x
52. Explosive Energy Child 5.10c/5.11a, 7x, RPs, small nuts, 40' pebbles
53. Widow Maker 5.9, nuts to 1.5"
54. Spiderman 5.7, nuts to 2.5"
55. Tarantula 5.11d, nuts to 2.5"

L black lichen buttress

56. High Sage 5.9/5.10a R, nuts to 2", 1 bolt, starts from low point of buttress

R black lichen buttress

57. Angel Flight Buttress 5.8, nuts to 1.5", 4x, starts on left side
58. Heaven Can Wait 5.7, starts on S face of buttress

Snake Buttress

59. Strung Out 5.9, nuts to 3", overhanging crack with 2 roofs, N facing
60. A Desperate Man 5.9, crack to 2 bolt belay
61. Cling On 5.9, nuts to 3.5", LFC forming Split Image
62. pr., 6x
63. Split Image 5.12d, 4x, ch., arete
64. The Golden Road 5.11b/5.12a, 3x
65. Snake 5.9, nuts to 4"

Christian Brothers West Face

66. Midriff Bulge 5.9/5.10a, nuts to 2.5", roof crack
67. Fallen Angel 5.10c, __x
68. Christian Brothers Traverse 5.6, nuts to 2.5", 3/8" bolt kit, 9 pitches

The Awl

69. Inside Corner 5.10c, nuts to .5"

Smith Rock Group, West Side

70. Skylight 5.10c L *, nuts to 2.5", overhanging hand crack on pitch 3
71. Bits and Pieces 5.6, nuts to 2", standard rappel route (2 ropes)
72. Tears of Rage 5.12a A0, nuts to 2", crux pitch 3 joins No Pain No Gain
73. No Brain No Pain 5.10d L *, nuts to 2", hand crack on pitch 3
74. No Pain No Gain 5.11d, finish for No Brain No Pain, overhanging finger crack
75. Smith West Summit A2, "bow and arrow, thin line," jumars
76. Platform South Arete 4
77. Shaft 5.9, nuts to 1.5", thin crack on N face of Arrowpoint
78. Arrowpoint 3
79. Culls in Space 5.10c, nuts to 2.5", diagonal hand crack under large roof
80. Cod Rock West Face Sunset Boulevard 5.8 L, nuts, obvious crack

Smith Rock Group, South Side

81. The Wave of Bliss 5.11d, long arete left of Kunza Corner
82. Kunza Corner 5.10c *, nuts to 1.5", 100' stem, southernmost point

Phoenix Area (faces Northeast)  (p.6.1)

83. Fred on Air 5.10d *, 6x, pocketed wall
84. License to Bolt 5.11a/b *, 5x
85. JBGHSL 5.11c TR
86. Phoenix 5.9, 5x, nuts to 2", sound red rock, 2-rope rappel
87. Drill 'em and Fill 'em 5.10a, 4x
88. Carabid 5.6, nuts to 2.5", crack system on left wall

Smith Rock Group, Northeast Side

89. Condor 5.10c, nuts, grunge crack 150' right of Phoenix ?
90. Smith Summit East Wall 5.8, nuts to 2.5", "a true Oregon death tour"
91. Snibble Tower 5.9 L *, nuts to 2", good corner on pitch 5
92. Black Velcro 5.9, nuts to 2.5"
93. White Satin 5.8 *, nuts to 2", "incredibly good rock on pitch 3"
94. Sky Chimney 5.7 L, nuts to 2.5"
95. Byways 5.8, nuts, upward traversing crack joining Skyways and Sky Chimney
96. Skyways 5.10a L, nuts to 6", dangerous loose boulders
97. Sky Ridge 5.8 *, nuts to 2"
98. Skydiver 5.10c *, nuts, ridge crest above first belay on Sky Ridge
99. The Asterisk 5.6, southwest side

Christian Brothers (faces East)  (p.9)

100. Jete 5.8, 3x, var. to Dancer
101. Dancer 5.8, nuts to 3", first pitch is 5.7, 5x
102. Toy Blocks 5.10a L, nuts to 2.5", diagonal hand crack, over blocks
103. Self-Preservation Variation 5.10a, nuts to 2.5", go R to Toys in the Attic
104. Ring of Fire 5.11c/d, 6x
105. Hesitation Blues 5.10b *, nuts to 2", thin
106. Attic Antics 5.11b, 2x
107. Child's Play 5.10c, nuts to 3.5", thin crack left shortcut to belay bolts
108. Toys in the Attic 5.9, nuts to 3.5", hand/fist crack 6' left of C. Blocks
109. The Bowling Alley 5.4, nuts to 3", left chimney behind Combination Blocks
110. Tinker Toy 5.8 R, nuts to 3", left outside edge of Combination Blocks
111. Two Dead Cats 5.9+ R, L arete, might be same as Tinker Toy
112. Overnight Sensation 5.11a/b, 5x, outside face
113. Charlie's Chimney 5.6, nuts to 3", right chimney
114. Private Trust 5.11b, 2x
115. Double Stain 5.13a/b, nuts, 4x, gently overhanging pin scarred crack
116. Last Gasp 5.9 R L, nuts, wide
117. Safety Valve 5.7, nuts, 30' up Last Gasp, escape right to sloping dihedral
118. Gothic Cathedral 5.8 L, nuts to 3", chimney
119. Old Testament 5.7 L, nuts to 2", crack on left side of pinnacle
120. Irreverence 5.10a, 4x, var. to Revelations
121. Revelations 5.9, 6x
122. New Testament 5.9/5.10a *, nuts to 2"
123. Barbecue the Pope 5.10b/c, 6x
124. Temptation 5.10a, bolt, traverse midway up Golgotha to New Testament
125. Golgotha 5.11a/c, nuts to 1", long reach
126. Heathen's Highway 5.10a L, nuts to 3", 4 pitches above New Testament
127. The Beard Left 5.6, nuts to 2"
128. Risk Shy 5.12a TR, right edge
129. The Beard Right 5.7, nuts to 2"
130. Wartley's Revenge 5.11b, nuts to 1.5", fingers, 4 pitches
131. Shoes of the Fisherman 5.11b, nuts to 3", very overhanging thin hand
132. Air to Spare 5.10a A5
133. Scar Face 5.14b, 11x, overhanging 1/2 finger pockets, sidepulls
134. Rude Femmes 5.13c/d, 10x, left side finish
135. Rude Boys 5.13b/c *, 7x, nuts, overhanging
136. Boy Prophet 5.11d/5.12b, 6x, nuts
137. Dreamin' 5.12a/b *, 9x
138. Choke on This 5.12d/5.13a, 7x
139. Rawhide 5.11d/5.12a, 4x

The Dihedrals (faces East)  (p.11-12)

140. Vision 5.12b, 7x, overhanging arete
141. Go Dog Go! 5.12c, 9x, overhanging wall right of Vision
142. Deteriorata 5.8, nuts to 1.5", last dihedral on left
143. Lycopodophyta 5.8, nuts to 2", small dihedral to chimney
144. Methuselah's Column 5.9, 6x, nuts to 2"
145. Bunny Face 5.6/5.7, above and right of M.C.
146. Bookworm 5.7, nuts to 3.5", 2" to 4" crack, hard initial moves
147. Ancylostoma 5.9, 3x
148. Rattlesnake Chimney 5.6, nuts to 3"
149. Chain Reaction 5.12c *, 5x, overhanging arete
150. Darkness at Noon 5.13a, 10x
151. Heinous Cling 5.12a, 2x, many #3-#4 RPs, Rocks, #3.5 Friend
152. Heinous Cling (complete) 5.12c R, 3x, rack + #4 Hex, #1.5, #3 Friends
153. Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 *, nuts to 2.5", finger/hand, stemming
154. Moonshine Start Var. 5.10b X, face right of dihedral to first bolt
155. Wedding Day 5.10b, 7x
156. Moondance 5.11b, #2-#5 RPs, #2.5 Friend, stemming
157. Last Waltz 5.12b/c, 8x, RPs, nuts, arete
158. Last Waltz Direct 5.12a R
159. To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a/b, 13x
160. French Connection 5.13b/d, 7x, many #2-#5 RPs, Rocks, TCUs, L at jug
161. Sunshine Dihedral 5.11d/5.12a *, 3x, same rack, pin scars, stemming
162. Powder in the Eyes 5.12c/d, 9x, face/arete
163. Take a Powder 5.12a, 9x
164. Almost Nothing 5.11d/5.12b R, 5x
165. Lester Tots 5.10c, nuts to 2", mediocre crack
166. Upper Ceiling 5.7, nuts to 3.5", loose chimney
167. Upper Ceiling Finish Var. 5.7, goes left, avoids squeeze
168. Upper Ceiling Start Var. 5.8, wide
169. Latin Lover 5.12a, 6x, knobs
170. Peepshow 5.12a/b, 7x, above Latin Lover
171. Tator Tots 5.10a/b, 5.7 R above crux
172. Trivial Pursuit 5.10d/5.11a, 5x, face/arete, joins Tator Tots
173. Kilowatts 5.12a TR, leaves Watts Tots above first bolt
174. Watts Tots 5.12b *, 8x
175. Latest Rage 5.12b *, 6x, arete, joins Watts Tots
176. Firing Line 5.12b/c, #3-#4 RPs, 2x.75" TCUs, joins Karot Tots at crack
177. Karate Face 5.12b/c, do Firing Line and Power Dive in one pitch
178. Low Profile 5.12b/c R, rack for Firing Line, joins Karot Tots at bolt
179. Karot Tots 5.11b/c, #4-#5 RPs, Rocks, fingers, leaves Karate Crack
180. Power Dive 5.12a/b, 4x, #1.5, 2x#2, #2.5-#4 Friends
181. Crossfire 5.12a/b, 2x, #4 Rock, 1" TCU, 2x#2, 2x#4 Friends
182. Slow Burn 5.11d/5.12a, 5.10+ R, 4x, 2x#4 Friends
183. Karate Crack 5.10a *, nuts to 3", hand
184. Math Test 5.9, large nuts
185. Peapod Cave 5.10a, nuts to 3.5", hand/chimney
186. Cinnamon Toast 5.7, 3x, loose nubbin face left of upper Cinnamon Slab
187. Cinnamon Slab 5.6, nuts to 3"
188. Ginger Snap 5.8, 4x, short face right of Cinnamon Slab
189. Unnamed Slab A 5.4
190. Unnamed Slab B 5.4

The Fourth Horseman  (p.14)

191. Headless Horseman 5.10d/5.11a, __x, 90'
192. Pack Animal 5.8, nuts to 2"
193. Confront Trouble 5.10b, nuts to 2"
194. Sun Dancer 5.10a, 6x
195. Sandbag 5.10d, short direct start to Calamity Jam
196. Catastrophe Crack 5.12a
197. Calamity Jam 5.10c *, nuts to 1.5"
198. Equis 5.11b, 4x, summit block
199. Crack of Infinity 5.10a, nuts to 2"
200. Friday's Var A 5.10a
201. Friday's Jinx 5.7 R, nuts to 1.5"
202. Friday's Var B 5.7
203. Peanut Brittle 5.8 R, 2x
204. Pop Goes the Nubbin 5.9 R, 2x

Morning Glory Wall  (p.14-15)

205. Tammy Baker's Face 5.10b/c L, 7+6x, 2 pitches, ugly, first pitch 5.9
206. Lion's Squeeze 5.7
207. Lion's Jaw 5.8, nuts to 1.5"
208. Zebra 5.10a, 2x, nuts to 2.5"
209. Zion 5.10a, nuts to 2.5", connects from Zebra to Lion's Chair
210. Light on the Path 5.10a L, 7x, (first 2/9 chopped), start on Zebra
211. Cat Scan 5.11a, 9x
212. Gumby 5.10a, 4x
213. Zebra Direct 5.10d/5.11a, 3x
214. Zebra Seam 5.11d/5.12a, lead version, a.k.a. Original Start
215. pr., 4x
216. Night Train Express 5.12c, 5x
217. Dandy Line 5.12d, __x, seam 20' left of Lion's Chair
218. Lion's Chair 5.11a *, 2x, nuts to 2.5", mostly small
219. Lion's Escape 5.7
220. Mane Line 5.12b/5.13a, 5x, face/crack var to Lion's Chair
221. pr., 14x
222. Energy Crisis 5.12c/d, 13x, 15' left of Overboard, hard start
223. Sketch Pad 5.12c/5.13a, finish to Energy Crisis
224. Magic Light 5.12b, 17x
225. Overboard 5.11b/c, 14x
226. Sunspot 5.11a, 9x, chopped or hangers missing, ugly potholed wall
227. ? bolts chopped
228. Taco Chips 5.12d/5.13a, 10x
229. Sign of the Times 5.12d, 9x, crumbly
230. Churning in the Wake Original Finish 5.13a *, 11x, overhanging
231. Churning in the Wake 5.13b, 14x, overhanging, Craig Smith's finish
232. Churning in the Ozone 5.13b/c, Geoff Weigand's complete finish
233. Vicious Fish 5.13d, 11x, shallow arete
234. Waste Case 5.13a/b, 11x
235. Kings of Rap 5.12d, 11x, overhanging 2 finger pockets
236. White Heat 5.13b/c, 5x, seam
237. Da Kine Corner 5.12c *, 4x, ch., arete
238. Oxygene 5.13a/c, 5x, overhanging, 45'
239. Jam Master J 5.13d, bouldery direct start to Oxygen

Rolling Stone Wall  (p.15)

240. Exile on Main Street 5.11a/b, 3+x
241. Gimme Shelter 5.11d, 3+x, arete

Cocaine Wall / Wooden Ships (faces West)  (p.17)

242. Adam's Wall of Power 5.12d, __x, ch., on left side of Cocaine Gully
243. Rabid 5.12a/b, 5x, short face with hard start
244. Shake 'N Flake 5.11a/b, 4x
245. Powder in the Nose 5.10d, 6x, knobs up yellow streak
246. Freebase 5.12a, 7x
247. Vomit Launch 5.11b/c *, 8x
248. Cocaine Crack 5.11b *, bolt, nuts to 2.5", "wild Kung Fu stemming"
249. The Blade 5.12a *, 4x, arete, 40' right of Cocaine Crack
250. Skeleton Surfer 5.11b, 5x
251. Slit Your Wrists 5.13b, 7x, overhanging arete
252. Time's Up 5.13a/b, 10x
253. Solar 5.9, nuts to 2.5"
254. Power 5.13b/c, 7x
255. Toxic 5.11b, 5x, jugs
256. Up for Grabs 5.11c/d, __x

Hall of Horrors / Wooden Ships (faces West)  (p.18)

257. Aggro Monkey 5.13b/c, 14x, 105-degree wall
258. pr., 4x
259. White Wedding 5.14a, 11x, overhanging
260. Highway to Hell 5.12a, 6/9x, overhanging mud wall
261. Ghost Rider 5.12a/b, 7/8x
262. Shipwreck 5.9 L, nuts to 2.5"

Table Scraps Wall  (p.14)

263. Waste Land 5.8, nuts to 4", RFC
264. Vanishing Uncertainty 5.9, nuts to 1.5", obvious face crack
265. City Dump 5.7, nuts to 2.5"

Ship Rock / Red Fin  (p.20)

266. West Gully 5.6 L, nuts to 1", "wear a suit of armor"
267. East Chimney 5.6 L, "worst rock at Smith Rock"

Picnic Lunch Wall  (p.20)

268. Journey to Ixtlan 5.10a A4, hooks to #4 Friends
269. Touch 5.11b/c, 8x
270. Suicidal Tendancies 5.11c/d, 10x, 15' left of P.L.W. route
271. Picnic Lunch Wall 5.6 A4
272. Soft Shoe Ballet 5.10a A5
273. Snack Crack 5.13b, 5x, ch., very thin pin scars
274. Midnight Snack 5.12c, 3x, nuts
275. Pubic Luau direct 5.12a, nuts
276. Pubic Luau 5.12a, 2x, nuts
277. Coleslaw and Chemicals 5.12d, 6x, just right of Pubic Luau
278. Unfinished Symphony 5.12b A3, 4x
279. Free Lunch 5.10a, nuts to 2"
280. Farmer's Var 5.10a
281. No Picnic 5.10d, nuts to 3"
282. Spartacus 5.12a, 6x, ch.
283. The Appian Way 5.12a, 5x
284. La Siesta 5.12a, 5x
285. Highway 97 5.11c, 4x
286. Fool's Overture 5.9, nuts to 1.5"
287. Scorpio 5.8 L, nuts to 2.5"
288. I Lost My Lunch 5.9 R L

Red Wall  (p.20)

289. Bill's Flake 5.10a, nuts to 3", small circular flake
290. Finger Puppet 5.10a, 3x
291. Paper Tiger 5.10a *, nuts to 2.5"
292. Super Slab 5.7 *, nuts to 2"
293. Panama Express 5.8
294. Panama Red 5.8
295. Amphetamine Grip 5.7 R *
296. Helter Traverse 5.8
297. Iron Curtain 5.9, nuts to 1"
298. Helter Skelter 5.10c R, nuts to 2.5"
299. If Six Were Nine 5.10a
300. Chairman Mao's Little Red Book 5.11a, nuts to .5"
301. Fingers of Fate 5.10d, nuts to 1.5"
302. Sole Survivor 5.11b/c, 8x, 5.10a R to 2nd bolt, crux at last, 75'
303. Gone with the Flake 5.9, nuts to 4"
304. Ho Chi Minh Trail 5.7 A2
305. Shanghai 5.10a, nuts to 3"
306. Peking 5.8, nuts to 1.5"
307. Mongolians 5.10a, 10' left of Moscow
308. Moscow 5.6, nuts to 2", crowded
309. Havana 5.6, nuts to 2"