Hard rock climbs - First routes of each grade

bold = first route of that grade or higher. Other well-known routes (or hardest in the US or Yosemite) are listed for reference.
6a (5.9, DDR VIIb) 1906 Teufelsturm Elbsandstein Oliver Perry-Smith, W. Huenig, Rudolf Fehrmann
Note: another grade VIIb was done a few days earlier, but this is the more famous route.
6a+ (5.10a, DDR VIIc) 9/1910 Kreutzturm, Suedriss Elbsandstein Max Matthaeus
6a+ (5.10a), E1 5b 1914 Cave Crack Direct Laddow Rocks, Western Grit Ivar Berg
4A or 4B (5.8/5.9) 1914 Prestat Fontainbleau Jacque de Lepiney
highball boulder problem
6b (5.10c) 1918 The Wilder Kopf, Westkante Elbsandstein Emanuel Strubich
6a+ (5.10a), E1 5b 1930 Hollytree Wall, Javelin Blade Idwal Jack Longland
5c (5.8) 1933 Wiessner Corner Ragged (CT) Fritz Wiessner
6c+ (5.11c) 1934 south wall Torre Trieste, Dolomites Raffaele Carlesso, barefoot
6a (5.9) 1935 Vector Ragged (CT) Fritz Wiessner
6a (5.9, toprope) 1936 PhD or Coffin Climb Cupid's Bower (Great Falls, VA) Marshall Wood
5c (5.8) 1937 Mechanic's Route Tahquitz Dick Jones, Glen Dawson
6b (5.10b/c/d) 1938 L'Angle Allain Cuvier Rempart, Fontainbleau Pierre Allain
6a+ (5.10, toprope) 1943 Leonard's Lunacy Carderock (MD) Donald Hubbard
6a+ (5.10, led) 1945 Leonard's Lunacy Carderock (MD) Herb Conn
6b (5.10c) 1949 Goodro's Crack Wasatch (UT) Harold Goodro
6a (5.9) 1952 Open Book Tahquitz Royal Robbins, Don Wilson
6a+ (5.10b) [rated 6b in guide] 1954 Aiguille de Balitiere, West Face including Fissure Brown Alps Joe Brown, Don Whillans
V8 1957 John Gill
6a+ (5.10a) 1958 Repentence Cathedral Ledge (NH) John Turner, with point of aid lower on the pitch
7C (5.13d?, V9) 1959 Red Cross Overhang (original dynamic style) Jenny Lake, Tetons John Gill
maybe too short to be considered (3-4 moves).
6b+ (5.10d) 1959 Bastille Direct Start Eldorado Ray Northcutt
6b+ (5.10d) 1959 Gill's Crack Devil's Lake (WI) John Gill
6b (5.10c) 1959 Split Pinnacle Lieback Yosemite Dave Rearick
6a+ (5.10a) 1960 The Blank Tahquitz Tom Frost, Bob Kamps
6a+ (5.10a) 1960 Rixon's East Chimney Yosemite Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick
6a+ (5.10a) 1961 Crack of Doom Yosemite Chuck Pratt, Mort Hempel
7a+ (5.12a/b, V5) 1961 Thimble, North Face Needles (SD) John Gill
30' high.
6c (5.11b) 1964 Frienstein, Konigshangel Elbsandstein Fritz Eske
6c (5.11) 1964 bouldering? Shawangunks (NY) Larsen, Williams
6c+ (5.11c) 1965 Crack of Doom City of Rocks (ID) Greg Lowe
6c (5.11) 1965 Son of Great Chimney Devil's Lake (WI) Pete Cleveland
6b+ (5.10d) 1965 Twilight Zone Yosemite Chuck Pratt
6c/6c+ (5.11b/c) 1966 Supremacy Crack Eldorado Pat Ament
led clean after toprope in 1965, and led with rest on rope earlier in 1966
7b+ (5.12c) 1967 Macabre Roof Ogden, UT Greg Lowe
6c/7a (5.11d R) 1967 Superpin Needles Pete Cleveland
6c+ (5.11c) 1967 Foops Shawangunks John Stannard
6c (5.11) 1967 Slack Center Yosemite Pat Ament
flake removed shortly after and is now 5.10d
7a (5.11d) 1968 Pilastro di Mezzo, Messner Slab Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites Reinhold Messner
7c (5.12d, toprope) 1969 Bagatelle Devil's Lake Pete Cleveland
7b (5.12b) ca 1970 English Hanging Gardens Big Rock (CA) John Gosling
7a (5.11d) 1970 Schwager, North Face Elbsandstein Bernd Arnold
7a (5.11d) 1971 Persistence Shawangunks John Stannard
7b+ (5.12c) 1973 Paisano Overhang Suicide Rock John Long
7b (5.12b) 1973 Kansas City Shawangunks John Bragg
6c+ (5.11c) 1973 Butterballs Yosemite Henry Barber
7b+ (5.12c) 1974 Supercrack Shawangunks Steve Wunsch
7a (5.11d) 1974 Overhang Overpass Yosemite Jim Donini
8B (5.14?, V13) 1975 Trice (AHR) Flagstaff Mtn. (CO) Jim Holloway
maybe too short to be considered.
7c (5.12d) 1975 Psycho Roof Eldorado Steve Wunsch
7b+ (5.12c) 1975 City Limits Giant City (So. IL) Joseph Healy
7b (5.12b) 1975 Fish Crack Yosemite Henry Barber
7a+ (5.12a) 1975 Split Pinnacle, Left Side Squamish Chief Nick Taylor, Peter Peart
7a+ (5.12a) 1975 Hot Line Yosemite Ron Kauk, John Bachar
7c+ (5.13a) 1977 The Phoenix Yosemite Ray Jardine
7c+/8a (5.13a/b) 1977 Phlogiston Devil's Lake Pete Cleveland
7c+ (5.13a) 1978 Hangover Tahquitz John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Rob Muir, Mike Lechlinski
8a/8a+ (5.13b/c) 1979 Grand Illusion Sugarloaf (CA) Tony Yaniro
7c+ (5.13a) 1979 Hells Wall Bowderstone Crag, Lake District, UK Ron Fawcett
7c+ (5.13a) about 1979 Yasha Hai Vedauwoo Japanese climber
8a (5.13b) 1980 Cosmic Debris Yosemite Bill Price
8a (5.13b) 1981 Sphinx Crack South Platte (CO) Steve Hong
7c (5.12d) 1981 Chasin' the Trane Frankenjura John Bachar
8a+ (5.13c) 1984 Maniac Quoddy Head (ME) Dan Goodwin
8b (5.13d) 1984 Kanal im Rucken Altmuehltal Wolfgang Gullich
8b+/8c (5.14a/b) 1985 Punks in the Gym Mt. Arapiles Wolfgang Gullich
8b+ (5.14a) 1986 Ghetto Blaster Frankenjura Wolfgang Gullich
8b+ (5.14a) 1986 La Rage de Vivre Buoux Antoine Le Menestral
8b+ (5.14a) 1986 Ultimo Movimento Totoga Manolo
8b+ (5.14a) 1986 To Bolt or Not to Be Smith Rock Jean Baptiste Tribout
8c (5.14b) 1987 Wallstreet Frankenjura Wolfgang Gullich
8b/8b+ (5.13d/5.14a) 1987 Tour de Jour Yellow Bluff (AL) Jesse Guthrie
8c+ (5.14c) 1990 Hubble Raven Tor Ben Moon
9a (5.14d) 1991 Action Directe Frankenjura Wolfgang Gullich
8c+ (5.14c) 1992 Just Do It Smith Rock Jean Baptiste Tribout
8c (5.14b) 1994 Super Tweak Logan Canyon (UT) Boone Speed
9b (5.15b) 1995 Akira Charente Fred Rouhling (unrepeated)
8c+ (5.14c) 1996 Necessary Evil Virgin River Gorge Chris Sharma
8c (5.14b) 1996 Magic Line Yosemite Ron Kauk (unrepeated)
9a+ (5.15a) 1998 Orujo Malaga Bernabe Fernandes (unrepeated)
9a+ (5.15a) 2001 Realization/Biographie Ceuse Chris Sharma
9b (5.15b) 2008 Jumbo Love Clark Mountain (CA/NV) Chris Sharma
8c+ (5.14c) 2008 Meltdown Yosemite Beth Rodden (unrepeated)


rev. 5/2012, 5/2009, orig. 2/2003, Clint Cummins clint@stanford.edu