Roy Naasz accident, Lost Arrow Direct, Yosemite, April 1970

from Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1971, p.13:
  California, Yosemite National Park, Lost Arrow Direct. On 6 April
Roy Naasz (20) and Andrew Embick (19) were climbing the Lost
Arrow.  Naasz was leading the last pitch of the South Face.  He later
described the nailing as very difficult and his third pin as A4.  The crack
was unusual for Yosemite.  It was built as if one had inserted a bottle-shape
into the granite and run it vertically up the cliff.  A pin enters the
narrow portion, then passes through a void before it touches bottom.
The granite was weathered and friable in the crack.  The third pin, a two-inch
bong appeared to seat fairly well, but when Naasz put his weight
on it, it rotated out of the crack.  He fell about 25 feet, zippering the
remaining pins to the bolt at Second Terror.  He struck the ledge at Second
Terror and broke his femur.  His companion Embick, after securing
Naasz, went for help.  Rescue party returned to Naasz for night bivouac.
Rescue accomplished the next day.
  Source:  Peter Thompson, YNP Ranger, Kimbrick, and Naasz.
  Analysis:  A3 or A4 nailing in a rotten crack on a Grade VI route is
difficult for anyone.

Additional notes

The topo of Lost Arrow Spire, Direct in the Yosemite Climbs, George Meyers, 1982 shows that the Second Terror is on pitch 14, which reaches the left side of Salathe' Ledge. The crack above Second Terror is shown as 5.7, while an A3 crack is shown on pitch 12, and a rotten A1 crack is shown on pitch 11.

Andy Embick told Clint Cummins about this accident in the late 70s. He said Naasz was not properly tying off his bongs, which caused them to rotate and zipper out. They tried yelling for help, but the noise from Yosemite Falls was too much. Next they tried making a HELP sign with white cloth tape on the wall, but realized the rock was also white, so it was not very visible.

Wendell Smith has recalled that Naasz was secured on Salathe' Ledge, and Andy rappelled to the notch between the spire and main wall, then self-belayed the aid pitches out of the notch to the rim. Finally, Andy ran down the trail to initiate the rescue.