(click on photos for larger versions)
Composition (8 3/4" across):
Firing Schedule:
The slump was as per normal, but topped out at 1485F.
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Composition: (9" square):
Full fuse to 1500F.
Tried an experiment - did both pre-fusings at the same time, via two levels in the kiln: on the floor and on the shelf. The piece on the floor showed all the earmarks of a cooler cook, maybe 40-50F.
Composition (9"x6"):
First attempt at using a floral former. Interestingly the large asymmetry in dimensions caused it to fold into a "U" first.
Fuse to 1500F; slump to 1265. Only needed about 1/2 hr.
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Composition (10" square):
2nd attempt with the former mould.
Fuse to 1485F (so as not to mush out the stringers too much); slump to 1265.
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Composition (8')
Full fuse to 1500F; slump to 1250.
Composition (10"):
Full fuse to 1500F; slump over floral former to 1265F.
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Composition (8"):
Black rim, a la Patty Gray; red center circle, clear back.
Relief fuse to 1465F; normal slump schedule.
The bowl edge seems to have devitrified slightly. Don't know why. The rim seams show. Drat.
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A test to complete experiments on how things slump on the former.
Composition (10"):
Full fuse to 1500. Slump to 1265.
The rim breaks did not 'heal'. I suspect this is due to something I read on the Warm Glass Bulletin board - glass contracts before it can flow. So I suspect that the "Patty Gray perfect rim" depends on the single break, which is essentially held together by spring action of the rest of the rim - ie it has nowhere to contract to. So, if it is not a single break on the rim, they will all show.
There was a small amount of devit on the upper border of the black stripe. Not the lower. Odd.
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The current issue (#181) of Glass Craftsman had an article on making pattern bars using a black iron pipe. I found a 2.5 H x 1.5" ID copper tube instead (finding black iron bigger than 1" seems hard) and tried that. The idea is to make a cylinder of glass that one can slice, something like millefiori, to go in other pieces..
I followed the instructions of lining the inside with fiber paper (cutting to length p*ID; could have been a hair shorter), and using a glue gun to attach a piece of fiber paper on the bottom. I filled the tube with ~1/4" x 2.75" strips of S96 cathedral yellow, blue and red; and clear and black strips.
I did a full fuse to 1500F with the usual annealing cycle.
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Another attempt at stack fusing.
Composition (9"):
Layers 1 & 2 get full fuse as individual layers. I relief-fused (to 1465F) a clear layer on top and added "sculptural" clear glass over the blue waves and orange sun. Bubbles were from small amounts of baking soda between layers 1 and 2.
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Last modified: 01/06/04 18:55:16 -0800