A Glassful of Rioja

    Logroňo , the capital of La Rioja, is but a few miles from the border with Navarra, yet a distinct culture onto itself. Destroyed by El Cid, the city now prospers on the wealth of the vineyards and farms of the Rio Oja valley. In the old town stands the the church of Santiago, with an image of Santiago Matamoros. It is a vibrant city, and one that holds many pleasant memories. It is where we learnt to appreciate the skill of the pincho. Beyond Logroňo, vineyards stretch for miles. We passed the old border town of Navarrete and spent the night in a lovely refuge in the little village of Ventosa (more pictures coming.) 

    The 15th century Franciscan monastery of Santa Maria la Real was a highlight of the Camino, hewn into the side of a sandstone cliff. It was there that Don Garcia of Navarra followed a dove "miraculously" into a small grotto that housed a statue of the Virgin Mary, surrounded by fresh lilies. The monastery was built around the shrine and for centuries, it housed the pantheon of the kings of Navarra.

    One of the most pleasant cities on the Camino was that of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Santo Domingo, rejected by the monasteries for his illiteracy, was one of the greatest supporters of the medieval Camino, building bridges and roads to speed the pilgrim's way. The city named in his honour continues this tradition of hospitality, making it one of the most pleasant stops on the route.

    Santo Domingo -- "donde la gallina canto despues de asar"-- is also famous for the legend of the "chicken that crowed after roasting." A young pilgrim, while travelling with his parents to Compostela, spurned the advances of a barmaid. True to form, she framed him for robbery and he was sentenced to hang. The parents left for Compostela, but on their return some months later found the pilgrim still alive, propped up by Santo Domingo. The magistrate, refusing to be disturbed from his dinner, remarked that the if the pilgrim was innocent, the fried chicken he was eating would get up and start crowing. And so it did. (more pictures here.)

    La Rioja was always a disputed territory between Navarra and the emergent kingdom of Castilla y Leon. The border town of Graňon, only seven kilometres from Santo Domingo,  is a lovely place. Once the home of many pilgrim hospitals, it now houses one of the most unique. Housed in the bell-tower of the parish church, the itinerant residents of the refuge cook and eat the food together. It was a great experience, one of those that makes the camino so special. Among our new friends were Boukje and Nicola.

    Beyond Graňon, we said farewell to the wine country and entered the heartland of Spain-- the territory of Castilla y Leon.

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