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Glacier Bay National Park! We were dropped off on the East arm near Mt. Wright and paddled over 80 miles of the East arm up & back. |
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From Juneau we took a small plane to Gustavus where we were transported by car to Bartlett Cove, the gateway to Glacier Bay! |
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Veronika embarks upon her first small plane ride from Juneau to Gustavus, AK. |
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From our plane, Juneau airport sits in the Mendenhall valley dominated by the great Mendenhall glacier which flows 13 miles to its terminus. |
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At Bartlett Cove, we get our orientation, our rain coats (invaluable!) and organize ALL our goods for the week... |
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All packed & loaded to go - all we need for the week! |
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Veronika and our kayak loaded onto our drop-off boat, the Baranoff Wind. |
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Our drop-off below Mt. Wright... here is where we begin! It was rainy and windy -- all the other tourists thought we were nuts. |
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From now, we're on our own for the next 7 days... |
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On day #1, we see our first two humpback whales... Later they were breaching fully from the water. |
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When a humpback whale raises its tail-fin it typically begins a deep dive. |
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Glacier Bay - a place of great beauty & a good place for rain gear! |
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Day #1. Two bear canisters, rain-gear and a really handy hat. |
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A gorgeous spot north of Adams Inlet for our first breakfast. Note that we arrived at, high-tide at the bottom of the frame, 22 vertical feet higher! |
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Glacier Bay... it's warmer than it looks! |
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Veronika, ready to begin the day, with Mt. Wright in the background. |
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Not easy to see, but just in front of the mountain is one of many Bald Eagles that we saw in Alaska. |
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Topher, sunny day paddling! |
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We stopped for an afternoon nap this field of natural strawberries. The snaking row of mussel shells reveals the storm-level high-tide mark. |
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Veronika demonstrates the change in the tide. Our kayak is anchored by rocks which was necessary just a few hours before! |
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In the distance on the beach at breakfast we spy a visitor heading our way along the shore! |
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Our first brown bear (grizzly) sighting. This smaller bear was more interested in breakfast found under the rocks than the kayakers watching him. |
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This brown (grizzly) bear arrived just as we finished packing up our camp. Brown bears are very good swimmers... |
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Riggs glacier in the East arm of the Bay. This was formerly a tide-water glacier but has since receded and grounded out. Now one can hike beside it. |
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Entering Muir Inlet at the north end of the east arm. Overcast skies bring beautifully calm mornings in Glacier Bay. |
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The Muir Glacier was a tidewater glacier & a major attraction for cruise ships in the 1930's. Now it's a mile's walk behind hills of glacial morraine. |
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The glacial run-off is vast at Muir glacier on this gray afternoon. |
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Veronika does the dishes as the morning light shines on the White Thunder Cliffs. We later saw many mountain goats on these cliffs from our kayak! |
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This brown (grizzly) bear footprint with claws and all certainly seemed pretty big compared to Veronika's boot-size. |
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A brown bear comes our way! We were instructed to stand our ground... brown bears commonly make a "bluff charge" to see if you are prey. |
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The brown (grizzly) bear, distinguished from the black bear by the hump on its back. |
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Lunch! The inter-tidal zone is full of food for the brown bear. They feast for the few months of summer and hibernate through the winter. |
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In the distance, the dorsal fin of the quick-moving porpoise. We were often surprised when pods surfaced just yards from our kayak to breath together. |
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The dorsal fin of the mighty humpback whale at the mouth of the Wachusett inlet! |
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Size is distorted in this picture of Riggs glacier. The waterfall at the left is actually about 50 feet high. |
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Topher stands in front of an ice-cave at the side of Riggs glacier. |
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When light shines through the very compressed ice of the glacier, it emits a blue hue. This ice-cave shows the amazing blue color! |
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Veronika strolls about the Riggs glacier. It's an immense body of ice! |
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Veronika sits at the river that flows out from under the Riggs glacier caused by the melting of this grounded-out body of ice. Note the blue color. |
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Seals pup their young on the safe icebergs of McBride lagoon. Here, their major predator, orca (killer whale) has sonar obscured by the glacial silt. |
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Entering the McBride lagoon...the icebergs are only 10% above water -- just the tip. Often assymetric, they may melt underneath and roll unexpectedly. |
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The intrepid kayakers amid the icebergs of McBride lagoon. The McBride glacier sits about 75-100feet high off the water 1.5 miles in the background. |
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Sun & ice. Summer in Alaska! |
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Blue & dirty ice that has been grounded out in McBride lagoon waiting to melt enough to be swept out by the tide into glacier bay. |
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A sea of bergs at McBride lagoon, low tide. |
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Veronika takes a walk through the magical beached bergs at McBride lagoon. |
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Topher, dwarfed by more than the tip of the iceberg. |
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A dirty berg that came from the base of the glacier. |
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McBride glacier makes a great spot for lunch. |
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Pupping seals in McBride lagoon cannot be approached because if startled the pups may be lost from their parents. Orphaned seal pups are not adopted. |
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The harbor seal -- a "true" seal with no ears and no opposing tail unlike sea lions. Great swimmers but bad on land, they only haul out on icebergs. |
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This "interstadial stump" is thousands of years old. It was preserved when covered by glacial silt as a new glacier cut off the top before receding. |
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Topher floats among the slowly circulating bergs of McBride lagoon. |
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The most common animal we encountered was the mosqito! These rain-proof, sun-proof and bug-proof hats were our best investment... |
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Dinner and warmth in the inter-tidal zone at 11:30pm at our camp in Hunter Cove. |
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Sunset as we finish desert. The days were 18hours long... this was about 11:00pm ! |
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The finish of another long and beautiful day... |
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