Stanford Alpine Club Calendar Archive

See [some of] what you missed! Also, see the Trip Reports.

January 2013
January 22 (Tuesday), 7:15pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Kyle Dempster - The 2012 Pakistan Double Header
During the summer of 2012, American alpinists Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy managed two first ascent's on two different 7000 meter peaks in the Pakistani Karakoram. Come join Dempster as he shares the story of the east face of K7 and their new route on the Ogre 1.
  • http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12f/newswire-k7-ogre-full-report
  • First ascent of K7's East Face
  • New route on the South Face of the Ogre
    Location: Mitchell 350 NOTE: DIFFERENT LOCATION THAN USUAL map / directions
  • January 14 (Monday), 7:15pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Eric Trautmann - Men in Tights - Exploring the Limestone in Kalymnos Greece
    In September 2012, I assembled my personal dream team of climbing friends from around the US to investigate the rumors and legends of recently-developed sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece. The two week adventure exceeded our wildest expectations, providing the most challenging and incredible climbing that any of us had experienced on a small island off the Turkish coast in the Aegean sea. We set out with a primary goal of spreading 1980's day-glo spandex climbing fashion to the contemporary Euro crowd, along the way exploring a 300' Sinkhole cave, 50 meter / 50 degree overhung sport routes, the terrifying dangers of two-person scootering, and bioluminescent ocean water at the base of the climbs.
    Location: Mitchell 350 (*** NOTE the DIFFERENT location (this time only) ***)
    November 2012
    November 26 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Pamela Levine - Scenes from the high life: Three climbs over 17,000 feet
    Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse
    During her service in the Peace Corps in Tanzania, Pamela Levine made two ascents of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa's tallest mountain. This adventure sparked a taste for high altitude mountain climbing that has taken her around the world. In a presentation that ends (until next climb!) at Kala Patthar mountain and Everest Base Camp in Nepal, she will share stories and pictures of how climbing Kilimanjaro lead her to the Himalayas.
    Location: Clark S360
    November 12 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - James Lucas - Yosemite's Next Top Idol
    Minitraxing the 5.13 "Athletic 5.12c" lieback corner, pitch 12 on Father Time, Middle Cathedral Rock. photo by Mikey Schaefer
    Every year, hundreds of hopeful climbers enter the contest to become Yosemite's Next Top Idol. In 2001, James Lucas left his Vermont life for the tall walls of the National Park. Armed with 50 feet of webbing and grand plans to top rope El Capitan, Lucas fumbled his way into becoming Yosemite's next Top Idol. From surviving a 100 foot free solo fall in Joshua Tree to establishing a Grade V 5.13 free route on Washington's Column, Lucas tells the highly entertaining story of becoming the Ferror Rocher of Yosemite dirtbags. John Long said, "In many ways, James is an incarnation of the Stonemasters of old." Lucas' writings have appeared in Alpinist, Climbing, Rock and Ice, California Climber and other outdoor adventure periodicals.
    http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/10/mikey-schaefer-makes-first-free-ascent-of-father-time-on-yosemites-middle-cathedral.html
    www.jamesclucas.blogspot.com
    Location: Clark S360
    November 9-10 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite Valley
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Both Friday and Saturday nights.
    Sites are for SAC member use. Please contact Anthony or Norbert for the campground and site number.
    NOTE: This is our last campsite of the season.
    October 2012
    November 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Marshall Kuypers - Illinois Altitude: Learning to climb in a flat state
    Central Illinois is a desolate place for a climber. Against all odds, my climbing career developed and grew in place far from altitude of any kind. Since Illinois doesn't have much rock to offer, I crisscrossed the US before spending a year in New Mexico. I'll take you through road trips in every cardinal direction and highlight a few crags that you may not have heard of. I'll share some stories about summiting, bailing, rock fall, and everything in between.
    Location: Clark S360
    November 2-3 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite Valley
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Both Friday and Saturday nights.
    Sites are for SAC member use. Please contact Anthony or Norbert for the campground and site number.
    October 2012
    October 29 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Vitaliy Musiyenkio - Bugaboos: Second Heaven on Earth
    Sunset on Bugaboo, Snowpatch and Pigeon Spires after finishing raps down from South Howser Tower
    After a year of dreaming and training, Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower appeared to be within our grasp. However, after just one climb 'the happy ending' to our fantasy resembled true lunacy. Under pressure I was able to find the definition for the word "success," create a stronger bond with my partner, take a few (hundred) photos, and climb a few peaks.
    PS: watching this slide show may be hazardous for preserving your GPA!
    Location: Clark S360
    October 27 (Saturday) Intro to outdoor climbing class
    Note: this class was announced by email, and is full with a waiting list. We hope to offer more classes soon.
    October 26-27 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite Valley
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Both Friday and Saturday nights.
    Sites are for SAC member use. Please contact Anthony or Norbert for the campground and site number.
    October 22 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Justin Briggs - Dolomiti Dance Party
    Climbing in the Cinque Torri
    My Pops hanging in the Sella Group
    Last year I was lucky enough to travel to the Dolomites in Northern Italy. This beautiful mountain range is brimming with immense limestone towers that rise from idyllic rolling meadows - a veritable climber's paradise. The colorful, sculpted rock is full of ancient climbing artifacts that one is often forced to use for protection, making the climbing experience a lesson in both European climbing history and sketchy runouts. After big days on the wall we retreated to the refugios, mountain huts nestled on green hillsides just beneath the rock, where we were revived by the delicious local food and wine!
    Location: Clark S360
    October 19-20 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite Valley
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Both Friday and Saturday nights.
    Sites are for SAC member use. Please contact Anthony or Norbert for the campground and site number.
    October 18 (Thursday), 7:00pm Reel Rock 7 - film
    If you want to see the most talked-about climbing film series of the year, you should come to this! Here is a trailer to get you psyched about it: youtube trailer
    reelrocktour.com

    Admission:

  • free - SAC members
  • $5 - non-member students
  • $10 - all other folks
    When: Thursday October 18, 7-9pm
    Location: Clark Center Auditorium (not S360); the auditorium is below ground level, see map link to left
  • October 15 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Hari Mix - Snow Leopard Peaks of the Pamir
    Peak Communism and it's lenticular cloud from Camp 2, Peak Korzhenevskaya.
    I descend Korzhenevksaya's summit ridge at ~22,000 ft during a 23-hour single push ascent
    The past few years, I've been perfecting the art of piggybacking mountaineering trips on my field research. This summer, following four weeks of paleoclimate fieldwork in Mongolia, I headed Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan to attempt the three 7000m "Snow Leopard" peaks of the Pamir Mountains. The trip began with Lenin Peak (23,406 ft), supposedly one of the world's easiest 7000ers. Lack of acclimatization, terrible snow conditions and tremendous storms made the ascent anything but straightforward. From Lenin, I traveled to remote and chaotic Tajikistan, which sees only 4000 visitors per year. After several days of waiting, a diverse group of international climbers and I hitched a ride on Tajikistan's only helicopter to the icy heart of the Pamir, home to the world's largest alpine glaciers. After waiting out a weeklong storm, I managed to pull off my biggest dream of the past year...climbing Peak Korzhenevskaya (23,311 ft) in a 23-hour round trip, over nine thousand feet above base camp. My final objective of the season was 24,590 ft Peak Communism. Shortly after impossibly deep snow conditions forced me to turn back, a major accident reminded me of the one true rule in the alpine...the mountain decides.
    When: Monday October 15, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark S360
    October 8 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Blase, Stephen - Bay Area Climbing
    Blase at Columbia Boulders
    New to Stanford and want to learn more about climbing around the Bay Area? Come to the slideshow next Monday! Blase and Stephen will be talking about some of the best local climbing spots within a few hours of campus, pictures included. They will give a rundown of how to get there, what to expect, and share some interesting stories.

    Climbing spots we will be covering are :

    Castle Rock
    The Grotto 
    Columbia Boulders 
    Ring Mountain 
    Pinnacles 
    Lover's Leap 
    Phantom Spires 
    Mount Diablo
    Mount St Helena
    Cosumnes River Gorge
    

    When: Monday October 8, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark S360
    October 1 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Dan Arnold - Early Days, and Salt to Summit
    Early Days
    Salt to Summit
    Calling mountain lovers everywhere: Come out to the Stanford Alpine Club kickoff shindig and FIRST SLIDESHOW OF 2012-2013! Â Meet new climbers, plan trips, hear tales from the summits, and have some snacks and beer.
    We will be joined by Dan Arnold, former SAC historian and author, for slides and tales from his adventures in California's mountains and deserts. Dan will talk about using nineteenth-century-style equipment to follow the earliest Sierra Nevada mountaineers (a generation of pre-rope soloists who climbed all of California's highest peaks). And he'll describe his epic Death Valley to Mount Whitney link-up, done off-trail and unsupported. Slot canyons? Big mountain solos in wool pants? Pine-tree-spooning, hypothermic, John Muir inspired bivies? Yes, yes, and yes.
    This will also be a great chance to sign up as a Stanford Alpine Club member, giving you discounted prices on gear rental, free campsites in Yosemite National Park, a sweet tee-shirt, and so much more.
    What? SAC OPENING SHINDIG and first Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow of the year.
    Why? To hear epic stories, meet other climbers, learn about upcoming SAC events and trips, and have some good food and beer.
    When: Monday October 1, 7:30pm
    Location: Y2E2 Red Atrium (aka the Social Entry)
    February 2012
    February 13 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Jonathan Crabtree - Four Gables Northwest Ridge - Winter Ascent Attempt
    dry winter in the Sierras

    Wondering what to do with our not so white winter while our Squaw/Alpine passes collect dust on the counter, Nick and I realized it was the perfect opportunity for a (not so) winter ascent. Hunting through guidebooks for something that would be just long enough to require a high bivy (because I like to sleep a lot) and just hard enough to require a rope (so the pictures would look more hardcore), I stumbled upon Four Gables northwest ridge, grade V class 5. After scouring the internet and other guide books and coming up empty handed, we struck out on our adventure with nothing but a map and our noses for direction.
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    February 6 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Matt Scott - Trekking in Langtang National Park, Nepal
    Langtang Valley

    Langtang National Park was the first of Nepal's parks (1970, and more officially 1976), but is less well-known than the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park for obvious reasons that have nothing to do with relative beauty; the Langtang is a wonderful place and still home to a few appropriately shy snow leopards. Langtang Valley, just south of the Tibetan border, is flanked by dramatic peaks including Langtang Lirung (7227m). From hills in the Langtang the view includes Shishipangma in Tibet, the 14th highest mountain in the world (8014m). The Langtang is not Sherpa country, though the Tamang and other people of the area, like the Sherpas, came from Tibet long ago.
    A group of five of us traveled to the Langtang in fall, 2009, for a month of trekking and some mountaineering. The trek began with a bumpy ride in a pink bus out of the craziness of Kathmandu, ending in Dhunche village in the Himalayan foothills. From there a descent through farm fields and forests took us past vibrant slopes of cannabis bushes and giant honeybee nests on cliffs. Emerging gradually to alpine areas, we went as far along the valley as one can go without climbing over the ridge into Tibet, which would have been politically doubtful as well as technically difficult. The central and upper valley dramatize global warming, unfortunately, since in places glaciers mapped as being hundreds of feet deep a few decades ago were nearly absent. Returning, we climbed Naya Kang (5844m) as we crossed the mountains to the south, then began walking a roller coaster of ridges to Kathmandu. This section of the trip brought us through beautiful forests, evergreen and rhododendron.
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    January 2012
    January 30 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Brad Lipovsky - Backcountry Skiing near Santiago, Chile

    The Andes are Earth's longest mountain range and afford some pretty good skiing, too. I'll talk about a few first-ski-descents and dozen or so places where I had enormous swaths of rugged, skiable wilderness to myself in the austral winter of 2008. From the traveler's point of view this region has an interesting combination of few crowds and relatively easy backcountry access. The Andes near Santiago have an incredible potential for new ski mountaineering exploration, so please bring any travel, logistics, gear, or other life questions to the slide show.
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    December 2011
    December 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Fred Beckey
    the eternal Fred Beckey
    Hightlights from Fred Beckey's 70+ years of climbing adventures and first ascents. Mt. McKinley, Mt. Hunter, Mt. Deborah, Mt. Waddington, the Canadian Rockies, The Bugaboos, Cascade Range, Sierra Nevada, Wind River Range, Desert Towers, Mexico and more...
    Rumor has it that Fred will accept donations for his travel fund?
    This is Fred's promotional book tour for Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs, but apparently the book has been delayed slightly and won't be ready until January.
    http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/fred-beckeys-100-favorite-north-american-climbs?p=BK570-0-000
    When: Monday December 5, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    November 2011
    November 28 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Dave Cameron and Clement Gires - The Big Playground
    sunset from Half Dome
    view down the Nose of El Cap, from end of Great Roof
    Dave and Clement will tell you all about the fun they had in Yosemite this year. They climbed cracks on the sentinel, corners on the Good Book, ran up and down Snake Dike, jumared hundreds of feet from the diving board of Half-Dome, swung at El Cap, analyzed movies frame by frame, strategized for hours at Curry Village's pizza deck. And eventually, one cold morning of september, they woke up at 2am, started the Nose on El Capitan and summited 20h later. Come dive into the Valley fun with them. They'll take your breath away, and give you all the monday evening vertigo you need in exchange.
    When: Monday November 28, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    November 14 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Jonathan Crabtree - Evolution Loop on skis
    Evolution ski traverse
    It is getting cold, it has been snowing (but not quite enough yet) and next week we are having a slideshow on skiing. Nick and Jonathan did a pretty cool trip last spring by traveling for 4 days along the Evolution loop in the Sierra. Come check it out and get stoke for the skiing season to come...

    A story of 1 broken shovel, 2 storms, 3 nights, 4 days, 5 aborted peaks, 6 dinners and 7 breakfasts. This photo show describes a ski of the highly scenic and terrain rich evolution loop in the high sierra and retells the adventures, close calls, highs, lows, gear, strategy and planning of when 2 ski mountaineers wore 2 light packs, skied 2 sierra peaks and crossed 2 sierra passes while seeing only 2 other sierra skiers.
    When: Monday November 14, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions

    November 7 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Mike Libecki - In Search of Virgin Vertical Earth
    adventures with Mike
    Come join Mike Libecki as he takes us on a ride to find mystery, flora, fauna, culture and unclimbed rock walls around the world, to places like Antarctica, Afghanistan, Baffin Island, China, Greenland, and Venezuela. Expect the unknown, laughter and inspiration to stop making excuses. The time is now...What are you waiting for? No excuses.Dream big...And climb those dreams. After all, it is not only life, but the quality of this life. Death and/or old age is coming...We must live sweet. Why ration passion? -Libecki
    Mike is also bringing a ton of goodies from Mountain Hardware for a raffle.
    http://mikelibecki.com/about.html
    When: Monday November 7, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    October 2011
    October 31 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Powerwhore - Breaking Trail (ski film)
    See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G52UjNmzmM
    When: Monday October 31, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    October 24 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Hari Mix - Mongolia, Kasakhstan and Khan Tegri
    The 10,000' north face of Khan Tegri from base camp on the North Inylcheck Glacier
    This summer, I was able to turn childhood dreams into reality. I had an unbelievable opportunity to travel: first to Mongolia for research, and then to join an expedition if I could just work up the courage to buy the ticket. After four weeks of travel in Asia, I arrived in Almaty, Kazakhstan to climb Khan Tengri (23,000') in the Kazakh/Kyrgyz central Tien Shan. The next three and a half weeks were filled with all the drama and adventure a big mountain expedition could offer. I spent much of the trip wide-eyed, just soaking in the richness of the experience. But by the end, I had adjusted to the realities of expedition life: from the close friendships and eccentric personalities around camp, to the spectacular climbing, the heavy pack, and an exhilarating sense of isolation in the high alpine.
    When: Monday October 24, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    October 17 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Stephen Hibbs - Bay Area Climbing
    Matt Norcia at the Grotto
    Hey Climbers, As usual, the Stanford Alpine Club will be holding a slideshow/meeting this Monday at 7:30pm in Clark Center S360. Please come on by to learn about local climbing, as well as to meet some fellow climbers.
    Having spent 4 years on campus without a car, I can show some of the best local climbing within a few hours of campus, pictures included. I'll give the rundown of how to get there, what to expect, and share some interesting stories. Climbing locales will include, but are not limited to, The Grotto, Columbia Boulders, Lover's Leap, Phantom Spires, Mount Diablo, Castle Rock, Consumnes River Gorge, Pinnacles, and maybe even some of my favorite Yosemite moderates. It's surprising how many places you can climb around here when you put them all down on a list. If you have questions on any other spots, let me know and I'll try to find someone who knows. I'l try to keep the slideshow to below 1 hour, and we can do a follow up if we don't get to everything.
    When: Monday October 17, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    October 10 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Alexis Lussier Desbiens - California Steep Skiing
    Split Mountain
    Welcome back to Stanford. The weekly slideshows are starting next Monday. Be prepared, this quarter should be full of interesting presentation: cool adventures from our members, field trips, local knowledge, Powderwhores, Fred Beckey, Mike Libecki and much more... stay tuned!
    Last winter, I was dreaming of skiing the Ford-Stettner couloir on the Grand Teton. But dreams are only dreams until you make a plan, so I made a list of ski descents of increasing difficulty that would get me ready! Although the Ford-Stettner never happened, the journey was pretty nice and got me to ski a bunch of long, steep and beautiful California classics. This slideshow will present my preparation for that project, along with pictures and stories from skiing Red Slate Couloir, Bloody Couloir, the Cross Couloir on Tallac, U-Notch and V-Notch in the Palissades, the steep South Face of Split, the St-Jean Couloir on Split, the Y-Couloir on Leavitt Peak, the North Couloir of Emerson, Kindergarden Chute, Dana Couloir, Third Pillar Couloir, Chute Out in Ellery Bowl and attempting a day of 10,000ft on Shasta! Lot of long approaches before facing sweet sustained lines at 40-55deg. The usual warning also prevails, it will include nudity and a strong Quebecois accent!
    When: Monday October 10, 7:30pm
    Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions
    May 2011
    May 21 (Saturday) Intro to Outdoor Climbing, at Turtle Rock
    Leaders: Steve, Zach, Orion, Blase See the classes page for more info.
    May 21-22 (Saturday-Sunday) Girls Can Crank
    Leaders: Alina, Sharon
    An informal trip, not a class.
    May 14 (Saturday) PCGI Self Rescue
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 2 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Natalie - Climbing in Europe
    Salbit
    La Luna Nascente
    I spent six weeks in Europe last summer after I finished my PhD. A good percentage of that time was spent rock climbing with my friend, Sophie Hartshorn. I'll present photos and stories from four different places where we climbed: Salbit in south-central Switzerland (alpine, pseudo-backcountry, granite trad), Val di Mello in northern Italy (multi-pitch granite, front-country, trad), Paklenica in Croatia (multipitch limestone sport/trad mix), and Locarno in Ticino, Switzerland (single and multipitch limestone sport). We climbed a variety of styles and learned a little about the difference between climbing in Europe vs our home turf Yosemite.
    Location: Clark Center Auditorium (NOT s360) Clark Auditorium and parking map
    April 2011
    April 30 (Saturday) Sport Climbing
    Leaders: Blase, Orion See the classes page for more info.
    April 18 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Ken Oslund - Canyoneering routes in California and Utah Have you ever rappelled down a 60ft tall waterfall? Or jumped off a 10ft tall one into a pool of clear mountain water bellow? For this week's slideshow I'll talk about a few canyoneering routes in California and Utah where you can do those things and much more. These places are essentially natural water parks where you can swim, jump, slide and rappel, but unlike Raging Waters, there's no admission fee and you're surrounded by incredible natural terrain rather than hundreds of other people!
    Location: Clark Center Auditorium (NOT s360) Clark Auditorium and parking map
    April 16 (Saturday) Intro to Outdoor Climbing, at Turtle Rock
    Leaders: Blase, et al See the classes page for more info.
    April 4 (Monday), 7:30pm Stanfod Alpine Club and the Chris Chan Memorial Fund present:
    Steve "Crusher" Bartlett - Desert Tower Slide Show!
    Showing highlights from 25 years of desert tower climbing adventures on the Colorado Plateau.
    Show is a fundraiser for American Safe Climbing Association: Admission is free, but donations to help ASCA are welcome!
    Book signing to follow. Help celebrate the recent release of Crusher’s new book, DESERT TOWERS. This book details the first ascents of John Otto, through David Brower, Mark Powell, Layton Kor, Harvey Carter, Bill Forrest, Charlie Fowler and many more; up to the recent free-climbing exploits of Rob Pizem, Greg Child and Stevie Haston.
    See deserttowersbook.com
    When: Monday April 4, 7:30pm
    Where: Clark Center S360   map and directions
    February 2011
    February 28 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Mary and John - Yosemite not-so-classics!
    Hotline
    bivvy below Mt. Watkins
    Mary & John sought out some Yosemite not-so-classics for their last serious summer of climbing before parenthood. Lots of retreating due to storms, some incredible hand cracks, no crowds, and the discovery that the hardest pitch of the summer was graded 5.6. (Hotline, Gold Wall, Chouinard-Herbert, Split Pinnacle, Mt Watkins, North Dome). Don't miss the video of Dave Johnson hanging off Clement's harness as they do the alcove swing together on one of our Sunday rest days!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    February 7 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Emilie - Rock Climbing in the Land of Banditos - El Potrero Chico
    El Potrero Chico
    El Potrero Chico is the "Little Yosemite" of Northern Mexico. Not dissuaded by expressions of concerns by loved ones, Emilie spent her Thanksgiving vacation in the heart of the drug violence. She took precautions while traveling, but had no problems and no regrets taking the opportunity to explore this gem. Almost more spectacular than the thousands of feet of former ocean bed limestone that are now jutting vertically into the sky, was the warmth and friendliness of the locals and the climbers hailing from all over the world.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    January 2011
    January 31 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Jonathan and Cuauh - Sierra Attack Week 2010!
    Fresh Air Traverse - Mt. Whitney East Face
    What do you get when one official SAC member, two SAC squatters and a guy from Reno who's just wondering why these guys are always talking about their sacs all team up for a week of climbing? We dont know, but we do know what happens when one team member has to leave on day 3, one on day 5, the other two have to fend for themselves till day 9 and no one has wilderness permits: Plans change CONSTANTLY, you drive A LOT, you learn how to make a "ranger backup plan", and somehow you pull off some sierra classics! In this slide show we'll be sharing our photos and telling tall tales about the ups and downs (*cough* literally *cough*) of SIERRA ATTACK WEEK 2010!

    Guaranteed to be more entertaining than studying for midterms...really...
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    November 2010
    November 29 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Hari Mix - Nepal, Ski the Himalayas
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 15 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Passion for High Adventure: Epic Rock Climbs and BASE Jumps with SuperTopo's Chris McNamara
    Chris McNamara leading pitch 9 on the West Pillar of the Eye Tooth. photo: Joseph Puryear
    Named by Outside magazine as one of "the world's finest aid climbers", Chris McNamara has made an indelible mark on the sport of rock climbing at a young age. He's made the ascent of Yosemite's El Capitan more than 70 times; founded the nonprofit American Safe Climbing Association, which has replaced more than 5,000 dangerous anchor bolts to-date; and created SuperTopo, the definitive publisher of climbing guidebooks for the Sierra and beyond. Join Chris for a digital presentation of his extraordinary climbing and BASE jumping adventures. Chris will share highlights of his El Cap climbs, including his epic, 75-pitch, first Girdle Traverse; his wingsuit BASE jumps from Italy to Baffin Island; and his recent efforts to promote climber safety and education.
    supertopo.com
    safeclimbing.org
    The show is free, but PLEASE bring some money as Chris will be collecting donations for the American safe climbing association (ASCA)...
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 8 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Powderwhores - (ski film)
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 1 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Dave Cameron & Clement - Nose in a day
    Pancake Flake
    I always thought that doing the Nose in one day (NIAD) was one of those things that you only read about in climbing magazines. You know, next to that article about the skinny guy from Colorado on-sighting 5.14X in his approach shoes. Yet here we are - a couple of Stanford weekend warriors getting up the world's most famous grade 6 big-wall in under 24 hrs. Well - technically 30 hrs, but we plan to have that fixed in time for the slideshow ;) We'll be talking about our ascent/s, our climbing backgrounds and imparting what we learned about speed climbing. See you there,
    Dave and Clement
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 2010
    [POSTPONED - WAS:] October 25 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Natalie Dye - Squamish, E. Sierra, Europe
    Slideshow postponed to a later date.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 18 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Jeremy Shapiro - Kilimanjaro
    Kilimanjaro
    In terms of interesting bits, 4 of us traveled to Tanzania and climbed Kilimanjaro, the highest peak on the continent, at 5,895 m (19,341 ft) and one of the Seven Summits, the tallest peak on each of our 7 continents.
    We spent almost two weeks in country, and 7 days on the mountain, 6 of which were ascending.
    Less than 5% of parties spend the night in Crater Camp - at ~18,500ft as it's COLD - Â but we did so which allowed us to check out the glaciers IN the crater (we drank and cooked with this water) and visit the Ash Pit which is still smoking sulfur.
    We summited in time for sunrise over the continent and it was an incredible journey.
    I'll cover the route we took, the research/planning that went into the adventure, what we did to prepare, gear used, lessons learned, photos, and of course cover Q&A.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 11 (Monday), 7:30pm Chris Chan Memorial Slideshow Series - Kate Rutherford - Greenland
    Last month Kate Rutherford and Jasmin Caton climbed 1,500 meters in the Tasermiut Fiord in Greenland, and one was miserable.... Come hear funny climbing stories and see stellar photos from Kate's last few trips from free climbing the Freerider to the Venezuelan jungle, and Greenland.
    Where: Clark Center Auditorium (Basement) (not in S360)   Clark Auditorium and parking map
    katerutherford.com
    suspendedstonedesign.com
    October 4 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Emilie Cortes - Makalu Barun The Makalu Barun region is extremely remote and is the least trekked area in all of Nepal by far - typically seen only by those venturing to climb Makalu or Baruntse. In April/May 2010, Emilie Cortes and John Gray traveled to the region with a small team of two other climbers to attempt Makalu, the world's 5th highest mountain at a formidable 27,766ft. The team dealt with a hairy dirt airstrip landing, a Maoist strike, violent GI illnesses, unusually rough terrain, numerous animal encounters, a near emergency bivy on the way to ABC, difficult team dynamics, high sustained winds, unprotected crevasses, the effects of extreme altitude on the body and the mind, and Emilie's biggest nemesis of all...scree...
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 4 (Monday), 7:00pm first regular SAC meeting
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    September 2010
    September 27 (Monday), 7:00pm SAC Instructors meeting Planning for fall quarter instructional trips.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    July 2010
    July 10 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Saturday night.
    SAC members free; others contribute $5 to the site fund.
    Check with the SAC President for the site number.
    July 3 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Saturday night.
    SAC members free; others contribute $5 to the site fund.
    Check with the SAC President for the site number.
    June 2010
    June 26 (Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Saturday night.
    SAC members free; others contribute $5 to the site fund.
    Check with the SAC President for the site number.
    June 19 (Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Saturday night.
    SAC members free; others contribute $5 to the site fund.
    Check with the SAC President for the site number.
    May 2010
    May 29-31 SAC Instructors Weekend
    May 22 (Saturday) Sport Leading class at Pinnacles
    Leader: Blase
    coleader: Tammy
    instructor: Matt Y.
    email announcement coming soon
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 22-23 Trad Lead Workshop (part 2 of 2)
    See the classes page for more info.
    trip leader: Sharon LW
    instructors: Poli, Ian, Sarah Inwood (1 day)
    May 22 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site. Saturday night.
    SAC members free; others contribute $5 to the site fund.
    Check with the SAC President for the site number.
    May 17 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Carter Stritch - Ice climbing in the North East
    The North East offers some of the best ice climbing in the US. There is an abundance of hard and moderate climbs just minutes from the car. Not to mention ultra classics such as Chouinard's Gully in the 'Dacks and the Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. I spent five ice climbing seasons exploring and photographing the various venues across New York and New Hampshire. I will share stories and photos chronicling my search for ice from the flat lands of Western NY to the fiercest mountains in NH.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 15 Intro to Outdoor Climbing
    Leader: Blase
    coleaders: Sarah P, Natalie Johnson
    instructors: Dave C., Zach, Matt Y., Tammy
    See Blase's email.
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 14-16 Girls Can Crank weekend
    Leader: Sarah I
    (informal trip)
    See Sarah's email
    May 10 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Isabelle Peyrichoux - Climbing in the Mont Blanc Range: French, Swiss and Italian Alps
    This past summer, Isabelle set out to Chamonix (France) to take a 6-day mountaineering course and fulfill her longtime dream to climb Mont Blanc, highest peak in the Alps (4,810 m - 15,781ft). During these six days climbing several 3000m/4000m peaks, traveling on glacier, ice, snow and rock, hanging in a crevasse, and traveling from huts to huts across France, Switzerland and Italy, Isabelle fell in love again with the amazing beauty of the Mont Blanc range. Through inspiring pictures, Isabelle will share with you her journey going back to her native country to climb in one of the most beautiful mountain range in the world and the place where alpinism all began!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 8-9 Trad Lead Workshop (part 1 of 2)
    trip leader: Chris M.
    coleader: Tammy
    instructors: Dave C., Ian, Alina
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 3 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - David Johnson - Sierra Ski Descents
    Langley NE Couloir - photo by Warren Caldwell
    Over the past few years, my friends and I have explored (and skied!) a few small sections of the high Sierra. I'll show pictures and tell stories about ski descents of Mt. Langley, Mt. Williamson, Matterhorn Peak, Laurel Mountain, Mt. Tom, Basin Mt, Shastina, Black Bear Butte, and a few Tahoe favorites. Hope to see you there!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 1-2 Intro to Mountaineering class
    trip leader: Dave Johnson
    instructor: Paul C.
    instructor: Ian (maybe), Sean M. (maybe)
    See the classes page for more info.
    April 2010
    April 26 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Cuauh - Japanese route on Mt. Alberta
    Mt. Alberta
    Mt. Alberta is a majestic peak located in Jasper National Park, Canada. Among the fifty-four 11000ers in the Canadian Rockies, Mt. Alberta is the sixth highest of this group and technically the most difficult to climb: there is no easy way up the back. Mt. Alberta is usually in climbing condition for only a few weeks each year, and sometimes several years pass between successful ascents. The easiest way up is the Japanese Route which is considered to be one of the fifty classic climbs of North America. This 'classical' route has a long and strenuous approach to the base of the mountain followed by a nightmarish route finding on steep rock and snow to get to the base of the climb, many pitches of challenging near-vertical terrain on loose rock, a highly corniced ridge, and the return journey requires complete reversal of the route. Last summer my friend Mike Haponiuk and I successfully climbed Mt. Alberta via the Japanese Route, during my slide show I'd like to talk about our story. I hope to see you there!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    April 19 (Monday), 7:30pm SAC presents the film: Disciples of Gill, shown by Pat Ament
    Location: Clark Center Auditorium
    NOTE: ** NOT ** in our usual Clark Center S360, but close - in the basement of the other Clark Center building, next to Campus Drive.
    April 17 (Saturday) Anchors I class, at Castle Rock
    Leader: Dave Johnson
    Instructors: Sarah Pistone (co), Chris M., Tammy
    See Dave's email.
    See the classes page for more info.
    April 12 (Monday), 7:30-9pm Stanford Blood Center & SAC present an evening with Hans Florine
    Location: Stanford Blood Center - Hillview, 3373 Hillview Ave., Palo Alto, CA 94304, near the VA Hospital. bloodcenter.stanford.edu
    better map
    link to Google map
    NOTE: ** NOT ** in our usual Clark Center, and not on the main Stanford campus.
    April 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Alexis Lussier Desbiens - Deux cons au Japon (Dumb and Dumber in Japan)!!
    So after breaking my ACL two years ago in AK, skiing like a gimp during most of last winter and way too much work, I was hungry. Hungry for delicious light powder, hungry for huge white steep faces, hungry for adventure... and eager to discover, to be a kid again! So I packed up my stuff for 5 weeks of skiing, traveling and living in a car... and there I was, in a country where it is impossible to understand anything, where they only ski groomers, where you bath in hotspring after skiing and where snowball fight is a national sport that is taught in high-school! Unfortunately it rained "everywhere-and-at-all-elevations" just before I got there, then we got no snow for about 3 weeks and then it rained again... so the snow wasn't great, but we still had fun! I will talk about the various locations we visited (both resort and backcountry on Honshu and Hokkaido), how I learned about the characteristic Japanese terrain by skiing straight into a creek, what to do when it is not snowing and what to do when you are tired of drinking because it is not snowing! :-)
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    March 2010
    March 8 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Ron Kauk and Kenji Hakuta - Sacred Rock

    Ron and Kenji working on a climbing project?  That sounds like a ridiculous idea to anyone who knows their backgrounds.  Ron Kauk is known as a rock climber for whom it is a way of life.  Kenji Hakuta is known as a professor of education and policy wonk, but he can barely make it up a 5.10.  Working on a climbing project?  If that sounds strange, come find out!  In this presentation, Ron and Kenji will talk about their collaboration on their project - Sacred Rok sacredrok.org - to bring the experience of climbing and nature to youth.   Ron will show some slides that review some of his lifelong experiences and vision as a climber that brought him to the point where he collaborates on projects not to push the limits of technical climbing difficulty, but rather the limits of what climbing means to an individual.  They will describe their evolving collaboration, and show some fun slides of places they have been to work on the project - pictures of Yosemite, naturally, so how can you go wrong?  In their view, every climb is a mirror of the self, and this insight is the key to the development of all climbers young and old, beginners and advanced.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    March 1 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Sarah Kate Selling - Climbing in Northen Italy/Southern Switzerland
    Albigna
    Massive dolomite cliffs and towers, green mountain valleys filled with tall granite walls, pocketed limestone cliffs on the sea, playgrounds of alpine granite surrounded by glaciers, and tiny mountain villages with restaurants that don't need menus. During the four years that I lived in Milan, Italy, I had amazing access to an incredible variety and quality of climbing areas (and food!), all within weekend distance of the city. I'm excited to share pictures, stories, and beta for climbing (and eating) in northern Italy and southern Switzerland.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    February 2010
    February 22 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Ted Hesser - The Secrets of Shangri-la, Mount Kang Kuru & Everest
    Mustang Caves, Nepal
    I joined a National Geographic film crew for two expeditions to Mustang Nepal where we scaled cliff-sides to gain access to ancient cave dwellings. The team discovered ancient buddhist and pre-buddhist reliquaries, scripture and paintings. Our discoveries were filmed and now are aired on PBS under the movie title The Secrets of Shangri-la. Pete Athans and Renan Ozturk of the North Face were climbing for the film. The climbing was very sketchy and amounted to aid climbing in dried mud. I also completed a first ascent in Nepal of Mount Kang Kuru, 23,000 feet, in the Damodar himal range with Pete Athans.. Lastly, I joined an Everest expedition a few years back and have stories and pictures from the trip. So all told a fair amount of Nepal/Himalayan adventure consolidated into a slide show. youtube video
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    February 8 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Emily Cortes - A Tale of Two Trips - The Volcanoes of Ecuador
    Cotopaxi
    Emilie Cortes will compare and contrast two climbing expeditions to the high volcanoes of Ecuador. The first expedition in 2006 was guided by Alpine Ascents and the objectives were Cayambe (18.3k ft), Cotopaxi (19.3k ft), and Chimborazo (20.5k ft). After unsuccessful attempts on all three, Emilie returned in November 2008 with two friends to test a new acclimatization schedule and continue to explore Ecuador. Emilie will share spectacular photography of Ecuador's highest mountains and countryside as well as her lessons learned as she finally summitted Cotopaxi on the third try.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    February 1 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Cuauh - Backcountry skiing in the Rockies
    Mt. Athabasca
    The Icefields Parkway is a scenic highway in the Canadian Rockies linking Banff and Jasper National Parks. Along its 230 km extent, the Parkway offers access to some of the premier backcountry skiing destinations in the world. Indeed, throughout the Parkway one finds an extraordinary landscape composed of icefields, rouged peaks, frozen lakes, snow fields and boreal forest that provide an exquisite variety of ski terrain in a remote setting. Impressed by this landscape, I dedicated last spring to ski mountaineering on Wapta and Columbia Icefields as well as other peaks along the Parkway.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 2009
    November 30 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Liberty Crack
    Steph and I teamed up for this classic line - it follows a single crack for 1200', and is a lot easier to access than Lotus Flower Tower.... Roadside alpine granite; good fun in the summertime.
    For a sneak preview, see Steph Abegg's photo trip report
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 16 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jonathan Crabtree - Cordillera Blanca
    Alpamayo

    3rd Quote-of-the-trip: "Climbing at altitude in foreign countries...it's like climbing at home...while sick." The photos speak for themselves in this slide show recounting our successes, failures, logistical nightmares and preparation surrounding three weeks of traveling, alpine climbing and fighting germs in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes. The un-paralleled scenery and humorous tales are sure to entertain both the vertically inclined and horizontally content!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 14 or 15 Beginners' Trip
    Trip leader: Dave Cameron
    Instructors: Sam, Matt N, Orion, Matt J
    See the classes page for more info.
    November 9 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Powderwhore
    powderwhore.com
    Location: Patagonia Palo Alto store
    November 7-8 (Saturday-Sunday) Anchors II class, probably in Yosemite
    Trip leader: Chris M
    Instructors: Sharon, Martin, Clint
    See the classes page for more info.
    November 2 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Matt Segal - England's infamous Gritstone and first free ascent of Central Howser Tower in the Bugaboos
    Falling off of Parthian Shot, E9 - photo by Cory Richards
    The 2009 All Access Tour Presentation follows Matt Segal’s climbing career from a JCCA youth competitor to a well-accomplished traditional climber. Segal’s show includes images and video from all around the world including England’s infamous Gritstone and the first free ascent of the Central Howser Tower in The Bugaboos, British Columbia CA.
    The multi media show will be around an hour long and will include either a raffle or an auction filled with lots of swag from: The North Face, Black Diamond, La Sportiva and PMI Ropes.
    www.mattsegal.com
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 2009
    October 26 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Dan Arnold - Early Days in the Range of Light
    cover of Dan's new book!
    Come join former SAC historian Dan Arnold for stories from his new book, Early Days in the Range of Light. Dan's book tells the history of the first seventy years of mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada (1864-1931). This was the period before European techniques (ropes, pitons, hip belays) arrived in California, so all of the climbers were essentially free-soloists simply because they didn't know anything else. Still, most of the Sierra's peaks were climbed during this time, and the original climbers put up many hard, technical routes using nothing but their fingers and boots. Dan spent four years climbing the historical routes in historical style--no ropes, climbing shoes, or Gore-Tex (and, sometimes, no backpack or sleeping bag either). He'll provide us with a little bit of history, and a lot of ropeless adventure tales from both his own climbs and the climbs of the mountaineering ancestors, all accompanied by images of our beautiful Sierra Nevada.
    DanielArnoldinthemountains.blogspot.com
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 24-25 (Saturday-Sunday) Lead climbing class, probably in Yosemite
    Trip leader: Alex Nees
    Instructors: Chris M, Warren, Clint
    Second of two weekends.
    See the classes page for more info.
    October 24 (Saturday) Intro to Outdoor climbing, at Ring Mountain
    Trip leader: Blase
    Instructors: Steve, Caitlin, Matt J, Pat, Jason
    See the classes page for more info.
    October 19 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Alex Nees - Southwestern Climbing Areas

    The American Southwest is huge, beautiful, uncrowded, and blessed with an incredible diversity of climbing. Recently I spent 2 years living in western New Mexico, and while I was there I had the opportunity to travel and sample a lot of this climbing. This slideshow will not focus on one particular climb; there are too many stellar ones! It is a celebration of the Southwest as a whole, and the opportunities for adventure and solitude that can be found there. From Utah to New Mexico, Texas, and Nevada, from desert towers and crack climbs to first ascents and sport routes, I hope you'll see something that excites you and inspires you to hit the road to the desert.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 17 or 18 Anchors 1 class, probably at Castle Rock
    Trip leader: TBA
    Instructors: Jon, Linnea, Matt J
    See the classes page for more info.
    October 12 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Chris Chan - Big Wall Solos, Yosemite Valley
    On the Shield Headwall, El Cap - photo by Tom Evans
    The Black Tower is the 7th pitch of Zodiac, a route on the far right of El Cap. An A2/A3 pitch, it was the first requiring the iron rack. So with the added weight, I climbed up a 5.8 ramp of beautiful, hard, dark grey rock that leads to a pinnacle. I squirmed up, balanced on top with one boot, and stared at the impossibly thin seam in front of me.
    At that moment I wished I had more experience with beaks. I wished I had a partner. I wished that I hadn’t eaten so many donuts in the last month. “What’s life for if not to experiment,” I tried to cheer myself up. So I got the beaks off the rack. Placed one. Took it out. It came out like butter. I put it back. Instead of taking it out, I tested it. It held. I jiggled it a little with my weight. It still held. Nothing to do, but go up and place another beak. They kept on holding. I started to feel less worried.
    Higher up, where the thin seam merged into a small roof, I placed an offset nut. My weight was on it for about five seconds before I heard what every aid climber dreads ­ the grinding of metal shifting against rock, a split second before you’re flung into the air. I sailed downward, inverting along the way, my elbow scraping on a protrusion, the back of my helmet knocking the vertical face as the rope slowed my descent. I came to a stop, upside down, just above the 5.8 ramp.
    “My system works!” I screamed out, breathing hard.
    But from that moment on, I began to be terrified.
    At this slideshow:
  • Stories from soloing Washington Column (Prow, Skull Queen), El Cap (Zodiac, Shield via Muir)
  • Description of aid soloing systems if there are questions (aka, how anyone can haul themselves and 100+ pounds of stuff up a big piece of rock without being an extraordinary climber)
  • What I learned about surviving in the Valley without getting nailed by the rangers (or spooned by the employees)
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
  • October 10-11 (Saturday-Sunday) Lead climbing class, probably in Yosemite
    Trip leaders: Dave Cameron, Dave Johnson
    Instructors: Ian, Sam
    First of two weekends.
    See the classes page for more info.
    September 2009
    October 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Colin Haley - The Torres Traverse
    Colin Haley presents the first traverse of Patagonia's Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre, climbed with Rolando Garibotti after decades of attempts.
    colinhaley.blogspot.com
    www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/completetorretraverse
    big year for Colin Haley
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    September 28 (Monday), 7:00pm SAC Intro meeting The intro meeting for fall quarter, in Clark Center 360. map/directions
    September 21 (Monday), 7:30pm SAC Instructors meeting Meet to plan instructional trips for fall quarter, in Clark Center 360. map/directions
    September 14 (Monday), 6:30pm Slideshow & Book Signing Steve House - "Beyond the Mountain"

    That's right... legendary alpine hardman Steve House is coming to town.
    Just a few of his credentials:
  • Piolet d'Or Award for his ascent with Vince Anderson of the Rupal Face (4100m) on Nanga Parbat   http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/nangaParbat.html
  • 60 hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali with Mark Twight and Scott Backes
  • solo ascent of K7 via a new line, for the mountain's second ascent
  • new lines on Mt. Robson and Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies
    The Stanford Alpine Club is pleased to be helping the awesome folks at the local Patagonia shop put this event on, so come out to support the club and meet an awesome climber. House will be giving a slide show and reading from his new book, Beyond the Mountain, then signing copies.
    Check it out!
    Here is what Mark Twight has to say about the book and book tour: "Reinhold Messner, who is likely the greatest climber to have ever lived wrote the foreword and in it says, "[Steve] is at the top of mountaineering. He climbs the right routes on the right mountains in a time when everyone is climbing Everest. He is also a great storyteller: he tells about doing, not about morals or lessons." Messner's last sentence is critical to understanding the value of the book. Where I went off the deep end of righteousness a few times in Kiss or Kill, Steve saved himself from this misstep and tells frank, raw stories of what he has done and how it affected him. His spoken word shows, supported by quite stunning images, while too short, and fleeting, are powerful even to the non-climber. If you have a chance to catch him on the book tour do so."
    bio at patagonia.com
    Location: Palo Alto Patagonia store, 525 Alma Street   google map
  • September 12 SAC campsite in Yosemite Valley
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site.
    Contact Dave Cameron or Chris McGuiness for the site number / details.
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    September 5 SAC campsite in Tuolumne Meadows
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site.
    Contact Dave Cameron or Chris McGuiness for the site number / details.
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    August 2009
    August informal climbing trips
    Over the summer, people are doing various informal trips to Tuolumne Meadows and elsewhere. See the climbing email list.
    Latest from Yosemite is that Chris Chan soloed Zodiac on El Cap. photos
    June 2009
    June 5-6 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total). Friday night and Saturday night.
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    June 1 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jim Castelaz - Expedition to J2 Cave in Mexico

    The 45 person international 2009 J2 team aimed to connect J2 to nearby Cueva Cheve and more than double J2's previously-explored depth of 1209 m. The effort would require more underground camps than ever deployed in a cave, underground stays approaching 1 month, and advanced prototype closed-circuit diving equipment. In many ways, this expedition pushed the limits on the most extreme caving ever done. My talk will be one of the first public presentations of the expedition since its conclusion on 30 May.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 2009
    May 29-30 (Friday-Saturday) SAC trip leaders retreat in Yosemite
    Climbing together, in spite of the thunderstorms....
    May 29-30 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total). Friday night and Saturday night.
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    May 22-23 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total). Friday night and Saturday night.
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    May 18 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Josh Helling - Greenland big walls
    Josh jugging up to high point, Skjoldungen Fjord

    Icebergs, icebergs, icebergs! Come join Yosemite Mountaineering School climbing guide Josh Helling for an evening multi media presentation on 1st ascent big wall climbing in Greenland. During July/August 2008 Josh Helling & his climbing partner Mike Libecki hitched a ride on a small fishing boat & took a 500 mile journey along the East Coast of Greenland in search of remote, untouched big wall climbing. They followed the edge of the Greenlandic Ice Cap as it dumped wildly sculpted icebergs into the chilly sea. Along the way viewed abundant wildlife while bumping their way thru pack ice until navigating deep into the back of Skjoldungen fjord. There, the two man team found what they were looking for; hanging glaciers, alpine peaks, beautiful walls of granite & a welcoming windstorm that destroyed their base camp the day they set foot on land. A fun arm chair adventure awaits the viewer as they are taken up a 2,000 foot 1st ascent with finger cracks, offwidths squeeze chimneys, & some thin hammer & piton aid climbing. The colorful imagery & story telling will appeal to anyone who appreciates living on planet earth, so don't miss out on good times with good people.
    For a preview, see: http://blog.mountainhardwear.com/2009/01/mike.html
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 15-16 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total). Friday night and Saturday night.
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    May 16 (Saturday) Intro to Outdoor Climbing, at Ring Mountain (Marin County)
    Trip Leaders: Steve Hibbs, Jon Denby, Matt Jennings
    Logistics: Blase See the classes page for more info.
    May 16-17 Lead Climbing Class, in Yosemite or Lover's Leap
    Leader: Alex Nees
    Instructors: Chris M, Jim C, Chris C?
    Weekend 2 of 2. See the classes page for more info.
    May 11 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jonathan Crabtree - 10 day Epic in the Picket Range!
    Southern Pickets, 6 days in - photo by Jonathan Crabtree

    The Picket range has a reputation for being one of the most remote sub-ranges in the continental US. This story begins with lofty plans of what would truly be my ideal climbing trip: A week plus in a remote setting climbing technical routes on rock and ice. Top that off with the fact that we would complete a full traverse of the picket range from north to south and the fact that the journey would start out with a boat ride to the trail head and you have quite the adventure indeed! Unfortunately, things didn't go exactly according to plan. This slide show will attempt to show you the wild beauty contained in the north cascades and the camaraderie of two mountaineers trying make it over the "rain fence."
    For more preview shots, or if you can't make it: http://picasaweb.google.com/jrcrabtree/PicketsTraverse
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 8-9 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total). Friday night and Saturday night. (May be partly used by the Lead Climbing Class this weekend)
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    May 9-10 Girls' Climbing Weekend (informal trip)
    Informal trip to Yosemite.
    See Sharon's email for more details.
    May 9-10 Lead Climbing Class, in Yosemite
    rescheduled from May 2-3 due to rain
    Leader: Dave Johnson.
    Instructors: Dave, Paul, Sarah, Bjorn
    Weekend 1 of 2. See the classes page for more info.
    May 1-2 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total). Friday night and Saturday night.
    See Chris's email for details on using the sites.
    May 4 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Melissa Hodgkins - Injury and Climbing: Know the Basics
    Melissa Hodgins, MSPT, ATC, Physical Therapist & Athletic Trainer, Associate Director of Rehabilitation, Stanford Sports Medicine Center
    I would like to be able to provide people with some knowledge about their bodies and what is involved in the recovery process as well as give them some ideas of how to prevent injury with simple strategies. The primary content will include clarifying types of injury, tissue healing and phases of recovery, common injuries in climbing, and prevention.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    April 2009
    April 27 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - John Stanfield - El Capitan - Mescalito
    Mescalito

    Late October 2006, holy ____ that was a long time ago, that was the last El Cap route I have done!  Man I need to get back on the wall!!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    April 18-19 Backcountry Ski (informal trip)
    Shasta?
    April 13 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Sarah Inwood - Climbing in Europe
    Lofoten Islands with Rasmus, Chamonix, and other spots
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    April 6 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Chris Chan - Climbing in China

    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    March 2009
    March 30 (Monday), 7:00pm SAC planning meeting
    Meet to plan classes/trip for the Spring quarter.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    March 21-29 Indian Creek (informal trip)
    Polly on Mantle Illness
    Indian Creek (informal trip), in the Canyonlands, near Moab, UT.
    Contact Alex Nees to coordinate.
    March 7-8 Yosemite (informal trip)
    Informal trip to Yosemite.
    Clint, Norbert, Ezra and Alex went. We climbed at the Church Bowl and the base of El Cap.
    March 2 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Dave Johnson - California 14ers
    The adventure continues....
    Location: Stanford Climbing Wall
    NOT at Clark!!
    February 2009
    February 28 - March 1 SAC/OEP BCW - Mountaineering I
    Instructors: Chris C, Paul, Dave J, et al See the classes page for more info.
    February 28 (Saturday) Introduction to Climbing, at Castle Rock
    CANCELLED DUE TO RAIN (in previous 3 days - it makes the sandstone fragile)
    Instructors: Blase, Clint, Martin See the classes page for more info.
    February 23 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - John Stanfield - Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    February 21 Pinnacles - Informal Trip
    Originally planned for 2 days in Yosemite; changed to Pinnacles for Saturday due to rain Sunday.
    13 people climbed: Dave, Miriam, Rebecca, Sam, Clint, Alexander, Ezra, Clement, Norbert, Liz, Melissa, Avi-ad, Shau.
    Informal trip.
    mid-February or mid-March Avalanche Awareness AIARE Level 1 course
    Instructors: Mountain Adventure Seminars, Bear Valley See the classes page for more info.
    February 9 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Alex Nees - summer adventures in BC & WA
    Mt. Gimli - Southeast Ridge (5.9), Valhalla range, BC

    Tanya and I spent this past summer bouncing around the Washington Cascades and British Columbia on an exceedingly extended honeymoon. We climbed, skied, backpacked, surfed, and generally lived it up. We visited marquee destination spots like Squamish and the Bugaboos, but I'll be focusing on a few highlights from the lesser-known areas we visited during the trip. The Pacific Northwest is an amazing place, and there's a lot more to it than just Squamish and Rainier! There will be images of mountaineering on Mt. Baker, exploration of the north coast of Vancouver Island, and spectacular alpine rock climbing in the Valhalla range of the Selkirk mountains. Come check out a few of British Columbia's hidden gems, and get psyched for your own trip north!

    WHEN: Monday, February 9th, 7:30pm WHERE: Clark Center room S360 WHY: Cause British Columbia is a beautifull place!!!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    February 7-8 Introduction to Telemark Skiing
    Instructors: Alexis, Jesse See the classes page for more info.
    February 6 (Friday), 2-4pm Crevasse rescue class, outdoor practice session
    Instructors: Paul, Sam, Ian, Warren
    Location: TBA
    See the classes page for more info.
    February 5 (Thursday), 7:30-9pm Crevasse rescue class, classroom session
    Instructors: Paul, Sam, Ian, Warren
    Location: TBA
    See the classes page for more info.
    February 2 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Justin Brockman, Chris McGuiness - The Nose
    cartoon by Sheridan Anderson

    "When I first started climbing I remember asking Clint in amazement if he'd ever climbed Half Dome. "Well yea, a few times" he says. "What about El Cap?" "Sure", he says. At the time, which I'm sure we've all been through in our climbing history, this was an incredible thought, that a normal person could actually climb something so massive. (Not that Clint is a normal person by any means...) After a few years of experience, and a last minute change of plans, Justin and I decided to go for it. Things didn't go exactly according to plan, there were a few very fortunate and lucky occurrences that helped us get to the top, but we made it. Come hear about the adventure. Hopefully this will encourage anyone else out there who is contemplating an attempt! We'll also throw in a grab bag of other pictures from other climbs we've done, and maybe a funny story or two to go along." -- Chris McGuiness

    WHERE: Clark S360
    WHEN: Monday February 2nd, 7:30pm
    WHY: Cause everyone want to climb the Nose and it is gonna be AWESOME! :-)
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    January 2009
    January 26 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Ron Kauk
    Ron Kauk on Separate Reality, Yosemite - photo by Heinz Zak

    We are really lucky to start the new year with Ron Kauk. For the one who don't know him, here are a few words from patagonia website http://www.patagonia.com/usa/patagonia.go?assetid=1878
    "Ron has been pushing the limits of free climbing worldwide for three decades: from the first free ascents of Astroman and Midnight Lightning in the late '70s to the first 5.14 in the Valley in the '90s. Focused and passionate, he is a minimalist, well-grounded in all aspects of the rock. And when he's not climbing, Ron works to protect Yosemite from over-development and abuse."
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 2008
    November 22-29 (Thanksgiving week) SAC group campsite at Joshua Tree
    Informal trip. Coordinator: Matt Y
    Space for 30 people at campsite.
    November 22-29 (Thanksgiving week) informal trip to Indian Creek
    Who's going? So far: Chris C, Meredith, Natalie, Warren + locals Erika, Chuck, Darko
    November 19 (Wednesday), 7:30-10pm Self-medication and self-rescue class
    *How To Get Yourself and Your Climbing Partner Out of the Backcountry and to the Hospital Alive*
    See Chris' email for more info.
    November 17 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Dave Johnson - Skiing in South America

    In August, I couldn't take summer any longer, so I headed 10,000km south to find some snow. Kendra Kuhl and I checked out a few different resorts and skied some awesome backcountry in the Andes! We spent time near Santiago, Chillan, and Portillo. I'll give a trip report, tell you some crazy stories, and show some cool pictures. I'll also talk about how to go skiing in the Andes and what you should do on your trip.
    This is really a teaser for this season of skiing, so get stoked and pray for snow!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 15-16 (Saturday-Sunday) Aid climbing class, probably in Yosemite
    Trip Leader: Chris McGuiness
    Instructors: Cory, Clint, Justin B
    November 15 (Saturday) Beginner class, at Ring Mountain
    Instructors: Blase, Wong, Matt Y See the classes page for more info.
    November 10 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Justin Brockman and Wendy Ong - Climbing in Idaho and Wyoming
    Idaho - Sawtooths, on the way to Elephant's Perch
    Wyoming - Wind Rivers

    Come hear Wendy Ong and I (Justin Brockman) talk about a recent week-long trip we took to go climbing in Idaho and Wyoming. We'll share wild stories about 800 mph winds near the summit of the Grand Teton, crazy ferry boat captains who apparently don't need gas for their boats, and bloodthirsty Wyoming highway patrol officers who gave both of us speeding tickets. We also managed to do some nice climbing -- Two "50-Classic Climbs of North America" ascents in Wyoming, an attempt at a 3rd on the Grand Teton, and a somewhat obscure route in the Sawtooth Mountain Range of Idaho.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 8-9 (Saturday-Sunday) Lead climbing class, probably in Yosemite
    Trip Leader: Dave J
    Instructors: Ken, Paul, Ian, Clint, Warren, Dave J
    Second of two weekends.
    See the classes page for more info.
    November 6 (Thursday), 8pm The Pact - a telemark ski film

    Free show. Donations for Sierra Avalanche Center accepted.
    Location: Patagonia store, 525 Alma Street, Palo Alto
    Preview at http://www.powderwhore.com/ThePactTrailerMedWeb.mov
    November 3 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Off the beaten path in Yosemite
    Obscure and new routes - Edge of Absurdity, Cookie Sheet, Parkline Slab, secret crag, Middle Cathedral, Dream Easy.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 2 (Sunday) Sport climbing class, probably at Pinnacles
    Instructors: Blase, Linnea, Peter, Orion, Brian
    See the classes page for more info.
    November 1-2 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    NOTE: big rain and snowstorm forecast for this weekend.
    1 site Friday night, 2 sites Saturday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    October 2008
    October 29 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    This was the last trip of the season, since Daylight Savings Time ended on November 2.
    Sorry, I was 15 minutes late to meet at Tresidder and nobody was there.
    2 people climbed - Ben, Clint. We had 6 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at 7:00pm.
    October 27 (Monday), 7:30pm Micah Dash - Kashmir Alpine Style
    La Sportiva and Mountain Hardwear athlete Micah Dash will be with us on Monday October 27, talking about his ascent of the Shafat Fortress in India's Zanskar range from August 8-11 (Colorado Route, VI 5.11 M6 A1, 21 pitches, 1100m). The presentation also includes hard free-climbing in Indian Creek. Utah, and big wall free-climbing in Yosemite Valley. It should be incredible... For a preview, see: Coppworks Blog .   full article Climbing magazine, January 2008

    Where: Building 420, Room 040   campus map   road map
    When: October 27th, 7:30 pm
    Why: Oh come on, seriously, you need more?

    Gear auction with prizes from Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear, PMI ropes, La Sportiva, Julbo sunglasses.

    October 24-25 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    1 site Friday night, 2 sites Saturday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    October 22 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    6 people climbed - Alex, Marcos, Ben, Clint, Colin and Chris. We had 6 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at 7:30pm.
    October 20 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Paul Csonka - Fishhook Arête, Shasta and icy couloirs!
    A trip from each of the four summer months--June through September--and how sometimes we were skilled enough to exactly pick weekends with poor weather:) I'll speak about climbing Dana Couloir, North Peak Couloir, Whitney Glacier on Shasta, and Fishhook Arete on Russell, with awesome climbers Sam Chang, Ian Post, and Emily Rains. You'll be hearing about how massive storm fronts sometimes generously decided to meet us while climbing, and how other times whirring rocks sought to make our fleeting company...some of which lead to side-effects such as hangin' with Fred Beckey.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 18 or 19 (Saturday or Sunday) Beginner class, probably at Castle Rock
    Instructors: Blase, Linnea, Peter, James, Martin, Matt, Orion
    See the classes page for more info.
    October 18-19 (Saturday-Sunday) Lead climbing class, probably in Yosemite
    Instructors: Ian, Clint, Warren, Jim, Alex
    First of two weekends.
    See the classes page for more info.
    October 17-18 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    1 site Friday night, 2 sites Saturday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    October 15 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    6 people climbed - Ben, Liz, Patrick, Clint, Colin and Chris. We had 6 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford before 8:00pm.
    October 13 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Mike Kerzhner and Jared Brown - Summer Fun
    Bachar-Yerian, pitch 2
    Over the past six months, they have been climbing a lot. Maybe even too much. They tried everything from 5.11 death routes in Tuolumne Meadows, 5.13+ sport in Tahoe, and V10 boulder problems in Bishop. And they even managed to finish a few of these climbs. Come to this slideshow to hear about surviving hard and dangerous climbs, about the greatest rope swing on the planet, and about drinking the best wine you can buy for $2.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 12 (Sunday) Anchors 2a class, probably at Castle Rock
    Trip Leader: Paul
    See the classes page for more info.
    October 11 (Saturday) Anchors 1 class, probably at Castle Rock
    Instructors: Linnea, Matt Y, Irina, Alexis, Orion, Brian
    See the classes page for more info.
    October 10-11 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    1 site Friday night, 2 sites Saturday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    October 8 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    12 people climbed - Ben, Liz, Ken, Zach, Clint, Marcos, Patrick, plus several others. We had 7 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford before 8:00pm.
    October 6 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Tom Frost - Climbing in the 60s
    Dihedral Wall, El Capitan (first continuous ascent)
    Tom Frost is one of the most accomplished SAC alumni, with his pioneering climbs in Yosemite (first continuous ascent of El Capitan [Nose, 7 days], first ascents of the Salathe' Wall and North American Wall), Alps (Hidden Pillar of Freny, Mt. Blanc) and the Himalayas (first ascent of Annapurna's South Face). He designed exceptional gear at Chouinard Equipment (carabiners, pitons, nuts, ice tools). He joins us to share some of his celebrated photos from the Golden Age of Yosemite. www.frostworksclimbing.com
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 3-4 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    1 site Friday night, 2 sites Saturday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    October 1 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    8 people climbed - Ian, Ben, Emily, Liz, Georgia, Ken, Matt and Clint. We had 6 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at about 8:00pm.
    September 2008
    September 29 (Monday), 6:00pm SAC instructors meeting If you are interested in instructing with SAC, please come to this meeting! Anyone is invited to attend. Meet prior to the general meeting, to finalize class/trip calendar for the fall quarter, in Clark Center 360. map/directions
    September 29 (Monday), 7:00pm first SAC meeting The first meeting for fall quarter, in Clark Center 360. map/directions
    September 26-27 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    1 site Friday night, 2 sites Saturday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    September 19-20 (Friday-Saturday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    1 site Friday night, 2 sites Saturday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    September 13-14 (Saturday-Sunday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    2 sites Saturday night, 1 site Sunday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    September 6-7 (Saturday-Sunday) SAC campsites in Yosemite Valley
    1 site Saturday night, 1 site Sunday night
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site
    See Chris's new email and Warren's old email for details on using the sites.
    May 2008
    May 19 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Robert Summers - Leaning Tower + The Caucasus
    Leaning Tower - from lynnhillblogs.com
    Koshtan Tau - from summitpost.org
    Alpbaza Bezengi Kabardino Balkaria (The Russian Autonomous Region in the North Caucasus)

    First part: A Yosemite wall in the 60's. Dave Calfee and I climbed the Leaning Tower in June 1967. This is a short set of pictures, not enough for a stand alone program. At that time it kept two guys pretty busy just getting up the route in 2 days.
    Second part: climbing in the Bezengi Region of the Caucasus in 1975. This is the area where A. F. Mummery ( "Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus")went climbing in the 19th century. The main peak that we climbed was Koshtan Tau. We had a local group of four with overlapping affiliations SAC/RCS/AAC. It required a 6 months correspondence with the Russian Mountaineering Federation to make the arrangements. Once we arriver the Russian Climbers were wonderful hosts.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 17-18 Trad Lead Workshop (part 2 of 2)
    Leader: Bjorn
    Instructors: Jared, Nathan, Sam
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 12 (Monday), 7:00pm regular SAC meeting 7:00 meeting, 7:30 climbing + skiing DVDs. In Clark Center s360. map/directions
    May 10-11 Snow and Ice anchors for Mountaineering
    Leaders: Warren, Paul
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Dave Johnson - Climbing the California 14ers: The 1st Five
    Starting in October, I decided to climb all the California 14ers, and make ski descents where it looked fun. So far I've climbed (in no particular order) White Mountain, Mount Williamson, Mount Langley, Mount Whitney, and Mount Shasta (3 times) and made ski descents of Williamson and Shasta (both over 7000' of vertical in one shot!). All of these peaks are highly recommended treks for anyone interested in the high alpine. Come and check out photos from these amazing mountains!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    May 3-4 Trad Lead Workshop (part 1 of 2)
    Leader: Chris McGuiness
    Instructors: Paul, Clint, Ian, Dave Cameron
    See the classes page for more info.
    April 2008
    April 28 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Sam Larson - Mt. Everest and the Seven Summits
    Sam on top of Mt. Everest 6/07
    Last year, after graduating from high school and before starting here at Stanford, I took a gap year to climb Mt. Everest. During this year I also climbed Cho Oyu, an 8000-meter peak neighbor to Everest in the Himalayas, and Carstensz Pyramid in West Papua, Indonesia. Everest and Carstensz Pyramid were the last two of my longer-term goal of climbing the Seven Summits. Come see photos from these climbs (especially Everest). www.samanthalarson.com
    April 26 (Saturday) Bouldering
    Leaders: Blase, Will
    See the classes page for more info.
    April 22 (Tuesday) Self Rescue - prusiking / ascender practice
    Leader: Clint. At Handley Rock. Earth Day - learn skills so that you do not "plant yourself".
    photos
    April 21 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Warren Caldwell, Dave Johnson, Jared Brown, James Mack - High Sierra Backcountry Skiing
    gully near Matterhorn Peak

    SAC guys and a SAC girl go High Sierra Backcountry Skiing
    Warren Caldwell, Jesse Cunha, Dave Johnson, James Mack, Sarah Inwood, and Jared Brown
    This winter's snow conditions were a lot more agreeable than last year's, and Stanford Alpine Club members took full advantage, hitting a number of High Sierra peaks on two planks or one. Come hear about backcountry skiing on peaks from Shasta to Williamson - where we skied, how we got there, and what we found.
    A selection of our destinations: Carson pass - Round Top (south side) and Red Lake Peak (north side), Bishop Bowl (near Mt. Emerson), Shasta, Whitney, Langely, White, Tyndall, Williamson, Tom (Elderberry Canyon route), Basin Peak, McGee, Matterhorn, Laurel
    Come hear about our adventures!
    April 19-20 Intro to Mountaineering
    Leaders: Warren, Paul
    See Warren's email for details.
    See the classes page for more info.
    April 19 (Saturday) Learning to Sport Lead, at Pinnacles
    Leaders: Blase, Linnea
    See Linnea's email for details.
    See the classes page for more info.
    Photos on Linnea's facebook page.
    April 14 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Charles Schafer - Ski Patrol for Bear Valley Charles Schafer, head of Bear Valley Ski patrol, photographer, and climber, will be speaking with us tonight about what it's like to be on ski patrol, how to get on ski patrol at Bear Valley, and the adventures he's had on patrol. If you're interested in being on ski patrol, it sounds like a good deal - free training, backcountry skiing, and helping people out.
    See his website at www.colorsoflight.org for his photography and full bio. Check out the National Ski Patrol, www.nsp.org.
    April 7 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Alexis Lussier Desbiens - UT + BC + YK + AK... Snow chasing all over North America
    Alexis out in the fresh air
    I spent last winter "chasing the snow" and telemarking all over North America with a few friends. After driving more than 25 000 km, skiing 66 days and eating about 52kg of spaghetti I am back at Stanford. I will talk about the trip in general, comment on the few resorts that we skied and get a little bit more specific about some of the best backcountry skiing locations that we found: Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT), Whitewater (BC), Kootenay Pass (BC), Bonnington Range (BC), Roger's Pass (BC), Ningunsaw Pass (BC), White Pass (YK) and Thompson Pass (AK)...
    Check out Alexis's web site with lots of photos http://snowchasers.blogspot.com/
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    April 5 or 6 (Saturday/Sunday) Anchors I class, probably at Castle Rock
    Leader: Nathan Bronson
    See Nathan's email
    See the classes page for more info.
    March 2008
    March 22-31 spring break
    Some people went to Bishop, CA.
    Others went to Smith Rock, (near Bend, OR). See Smith Rock page with Matt Farrell's beta.
    March 10 (Monday), 7:00pm SAC instructors meeting
    Meet at 7:00pm to plan classes/trips for Spring quarter.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    March 3 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Saul Jimenez - Fitness and conditioning for outdoor activities
    Proper conditioning can allow you to climb harder, ski longer, prevent injuries and be safer in the outdoors. We all know it, but we often don't know how to navigate the bewildering, contradictory and unreliable selection of fitness literature in books, magazines and on the web. There is hope! At the upcoming Alpine Club slide show, Saul Jimenez, owner of local gym and a certified coach in several disciplines, will share with us some elements of his training philosophy. He will discuss what it means to be "fit," what the major modes of training are (strength, power, intervals, cardio, etc.), how to integrate them into a coherent training plan, and where to find reliable training information. He will also demonstrate how to safely do some key exercises.
    outline of talk, including four-week training program

    About the speaker: Saul Jimenez is a NSCA Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), a USA Weightlifting club-level coach and CrossFit level 1 coach. He has also worked as an Outward Bound instructor, a ski coach and instructor and river guide.

    Some food for thought: What is fitness? http://www.crossfit.com/cf-download/CFJ-trial.pdf
    The lunatic fringe: http://www.gymjones.com/schedule.php Where alpinists Steve House and Mark Twight (and the cast of '300') train.
    Track your running mileage: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/
    Saul's gym: http://www.peninsulacrossfit.com/
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    February 2008
    February 25 (Monday), 7:00pm SAC meeting / slideshow [cancelled]
    Eva with the walls of Tsaranoro in the background

    Our usual meeting/slideshow has been cancelled. But you can check out Eva's photos from climbing the Nose and Madagascar at: http://www.mountainspirit.info/galleries.asp .
    February 24-March 1 Informal rock climbing trip - Joshua Tree
    organized by: Ben
    see Ben's email
    see J Tree beta page
    informal trip
    February 16-18 (President's Day weekend) Informal rock climbing trip - Bishop
    trip leader: Sarah
    details in Sarah's email
    informal trip
    February 11 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Slesse Northeast Buttress, with Steph Abegg
    Steph leading pitch 18, 5.8

    After many years of wanting to do this climb, Steph and I found a window of opportunity this past September and did not hesitate (even though I live 15 hours further from the climb than Steph does!). It's an old Fred Beckey classic, but finding safe conditions for getting onto the route can be quite tricky. Once on the route, the line is spectacular and the climbing is mostly moderate and fun. It was one of those long, great days in the mountains that we are all hoping to find.
    You can also check out Steph's photo trip report: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/slesse
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    February 4 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Matt Covington - Caving! Sistema Huautla 2007: Rio Iglesia
    Yuri Schwartz ascending a marbley drop above the old Canadian base camp chamber.

    "I consider this to be the most exiting caving expedition I've been on". -- Matt

    In the heart of Oaxaca lie the two deepest known caves in the Americas - Sistema Cheve and Sistema Huautla. These caves are the site of 40 years of exploration and discovery and countless tales of success and defeat. Huautla was the subject of a recent book, "Beyond the Deep" which recounts some of these stories. Huautla is arguably the most complex deep cave in the world. For several years now I have joined annual expeditions to Sistema Cheve, but this last spring we embarked on an expedition to attempt to uncover one of the key missing pieces of Sistema Huautla - Rio Iglesia. Rio Iglesia is a large cave, which once held the depth record for the Americas. The cave was known to be hydrologically connected to Huautla, but had never been physically connected. It was thought that Rio Iglesia might bypass some of the long sumps (sections of underwater passage) that make exploration so arduous in the bottom section of Huautla. The goal of our expedition was to try to make this connection. Luck...was on our side.
    http://cavedeep.com/mdcovin/play/huautla.html
    Location: Clark Center Room s361 (next to s360) (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    February 2-3 Instructional Trip - Snow Camping workshop - Yosemite
    trip leaders: Ann + Erik
    see Ann's email
    January 2008
    January 28 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Eu-Jin Goh - Ecuador - the Galapagos and Cotopaxi
    Galapagos Land Tortoise

    The Galapagos Islands has been on my list of places to visit since I started travelling to South America three years ago. Having spent 8 days sailing around the Galapagos in December 2007, it is easy to see why wildlife lovers flock to the Galapagos. My travel companions and I were constantly thrilled by all the stunningly colored wildlife that are unafraid of us humans getting really close. For the slideshow, I'll give an overview of my (fairly typical) trip to the Galapagos, and try to convince you that it's worth the money.

    After returning from the Galapagos to the mainland, we had 4 days left in Quito during which we did some high altitude hiking up Rucu Pinchincha (4698m / 15,413ft), Guagua Pinchincha (4794m / 15,728 ft), and finally Cotopaxi (5897 m / 19,347 ft). Having climbed in a few countries in South and Central America, I think Ecuador is the most convenient country from the US for gaining some high altitude experience. For the slideshow, I'll explain why I think so and describe our acclimitization schedule and organization.

    A sneak preview of the slides can be found at http://eujingoh.com/pics/ecuador-2007/index.html The slideshow will contain about thrice as many images and gives a better overview of the trip.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    January 27 (Sunday) unclean aid climbing workshop (at Clint's driveway)
    organized by: Chris Chan
    instructor: Clint
    for folks who have already done some clean aid climbing, and want to see why hammering is to be avoided. Pitons, copperheads, and drilling. Practice session in the nearest junk granite we can find. (at Clint's driveway, due to the cold/wet weather).
    diagrams and text on pitons and copperheads
    January 26 Instructional Trip - Anchors I - Castle Rock (cancelled due to rain)
    trip leader: Chris McGuiness
    see Chris's email
    see classes page for more info
    January 24 (Thursday Classroom Session for Anchors I class
    trip leader: Chris McGuiness
    see Chris's email
    in Clark Center ?, 7-8:30pm map / directions
    January 24 (Thursday Classroom Session for Snow Camping workshop
    trip leaders: Ann + Erik
    see Ann's email
    in Clark Center S361, 7-10pm map / directions
    January 19 (Saturday) Informal rock climbing trip - Pinnacles
    this trip was started when Eva sent an email to the climbing list, looking for a 4th person for Pinnacles. She got so many emails that we ended up with several cars full of climbers!
    who went: Eva, Rasmus, Justin, Clint, Wei, Linnea, Jeff, Ian, Brian, Wong, Bjorn, Wendy, and Sam. We climbed at Discovery Wall and the Monolith; back in Palo Alto by 8pm.
    informal trip.
    January 14 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Warren Caldwell - Geophysics and solo trekking on the Tibetan Plateau

    In June and July I spent six weeks in Tibet. For the first three weeks I worked on an experiment conducted by Stanford's Crustal Geophysics Research Group, part of the Geophysics Department at Stanford. We worked in Qinghai Province in a remote part of the northern Tibetan Plateau, where snowstorms, car wrecks, problematic equipment and military bureaucratic restrictions plagued us every day. I'll share a bit of what we worked on and why we are interested in Tibet, and maybe a little on the origin and evolution of the Himalayas and Tibetan Plateau. After the experiment I spent a week in Lhasa and a week trekking solo across the Nyanchan Thangala mountain range. Come hear a grab-bag presentation on these various aspects of my summer and current Tibetan/Himalayan tectonic research!
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    January 13 (Sunday) Informal rock climbing trip - Pinnacles
    trip leader: Clint
    who went: Ben, Andrew, and Anna. We climbed at the Monolith and were back at Stanford at 6pm. I goofed a bit and forgot my second rope, so we had to do a bit more waiting that climbing, but it was still good fun. photos
    informal trip.
    November 2007
    Nov. 29 (Thursday), 7:30/8pm Telemark movie - Powderwhore '07 World Tour

    Powderwhore '07 Tour - http://www.powderwhore.com/

    Date: November 29, Thursday.
    Time: Doors open at 7:30, film starts at 8pm
    Location: Patagonia store, 525 Alma Street, Palo Alto
    Cost: FREE!
    We will be holding a raffle for lift tickets to Kirkwood and Sugar Bowl, training package from Mad Dawg Fitness (PeninsulaCrossFit.com) and some Patagonia goodies... all proceeds will go to the Sierra Avalanche Center!

    Ready for the winter? Thanks to the Stanford Alpine Club and Patagonia, the Powderwhore '07 world tour will stop less than 5 minutes away from Stanford Campus! For those who don't know, this is one of the greatest telemark movies ever: sick lines, Alaska footage, Baffin Island couloirs, ripping TeleChica, freeskier Nick De Vore, but mostly... a huge amount of POWDER!! See for yourself a preview of the movie at: http://www.telemarktips.com/RevPW07.html

    November 18-23 SAC group campsite in Joshua Tree
    Room for 30 people.
    See Matt's emails on the informal trip to Joshua Tree.
    November 12 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Henry Liu - Cho Oyu + Ama Dablam
    Ama Dablam (6812m)

    I spent the last two months in the Himalayas having the adventure of a lifetime climbing two big mountains. First was Cho Oyu from Tibet; at 8201m (26,906ft) it is the 6th highest mountain in the world. Second was Ama Dablam (6812m, 22,349ft), a famous technical mountain involving mixed rock, snow and vertical ice climbing with lots of exposure. I will present some great pictures from the climbs along with some beautiful scenery filled with waterfalls and rapids from the approach in Tibet and Nepal. In addition, I'd like to organize a team to climb Mt Everest (8848m) in April, 2008 and present some information to interested parties.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 10-11 (Saturday-Sunday) Anchors II class in Yosemite
    Trip Leader: Chris McGuiness See the classes page for more info.
    October 2007
    November 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Travels with Steph (3) - the Bugaboos
    sunrise over Snowpatch Spire - photo by Steph Abegg

    After Bugaboos trips in each decade since 1974, I felt it was high time to check out the Beckey-Chouinard! Steph had just been there the previous summer, and was also eager to do it, plus something on Snowpatch Spire. Long granite climbs, glacial setting, variable weather - much drama is possible, so it's a good place to have a solid climbing partner like Steph.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 29 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jared Brown - Cordillera Blanca, Peru
    some clown on top of Pisco, Artesonraju in the back

    I went down to Peru to climb some peaks for 3 weeks after graduation this summer. The first week, I climbed with Chuck in the Llanganuco Valley. We attempted Yanapaccha, but turned around about 300 feet from the top in a whiteout, and summited Pisco, with our first really good views of the trip. The second week, I climbed Ishinca and Tocllaraju with Eu-Jin, as covered in his slideshow while Chuck climbed Huascaran (highest peak in Peru) with Darren, a guy we met on Pisco. The last week, I rejoined Chuck and Darren for Chopicalqui, which is right next to Huascaran, so had the best views of the trip, and was the hardest and highest peak I did on the trip.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 26-27 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total).
    See Warren's email for details on using the sites.
    October 22 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Leor Pantilat - Mountain Running
    Picture Peak from Sailor Lake
    Mt. Olympus
    McMillan Spires - Southern Picket Range

    Mountain running is a combination of two of my passions - running and climbing mountains. The feeling of covering lots of ground in a wilderness setting is thrilling and mountain running allows me to access places that would otherwise require days of backpacking and mountaineering to reach. This show will feature mountain scenery photography from a collection of these speedy ascents in California's High Sierra and Washington State. Some of this summer's notable speed records include Mount Olympus, Eldorado Peak, Black Kaweah, and Maude-Fernow-Seven Finger Jack, among others. I will also provide insights into what mountain running actually entails. For a preview of this year's highlights, visit: http://www.stanford.edu/~pantilat/highlights2007.htm.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 20 (Saturday) Anchors I class at Castle Rock
    Trip Leader: Warren See the classes page for more info.
    October 19-20 (Friday-Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total).
    See Warren's email for details on using the sites.
    October 18-29 Indian Creek (informal trip)
    Erika on Scarface, 4/03, photo by Alexander Cooper
    Informal trip to Indian Creek, in the Canyonlands, near Moab, UT.
    Who's going? Erika, Clint. Other folks are going the previous week, and some are planning to drop in for a long weekend.
    Alexander's logistics email of 10/6
    If you want to go, contact Erika or Clint to coordinate.
    October 17 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock CANCELLED
    Well, it did not actually rain in Palo Alto on Tuesday night, but I seem to be without my car again, plus it rained in SF, SFO, and Moffet Field, and rainfall data for Redwood City is missing. So I'm cancelling the trip.
    This was the last planned Wednesday evening trip for the year, given reduced daylight and the change to standard time soon.
    NOAA/NWS weather forecast
    October 15 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Kenny Gillingham - Climbing, Tramping, and Exploring New Zealand
    looking out over Tongariro Park from Mt. Ruapehu

    I just got back from a seven months in one of the world's most scenic places: New Zealand. I have abundant stories about numerous trips, including a few climbing trips, and more than a few tramping (read: kiwi for "hiking") trips into some gorgeous landscapes. I may have to throw in a few of my favorite scenic photos from some of my other explorations around the country for good measure.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 13 (Sunday) Intro class at Pinnacles
    Trip Leader: Linnea See the classes page for more info.
    October 13 (Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total).
    See Warren's email for details on using the sites.
    October 10 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Cancelled
    Cancelled because Clint is busy with his 20th wedding anniversary....
    October 8 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Chris Chan - Tour of Yosemite's Big Walls - El Capitan, Half Dome, Washington Column, Leaning Tower
    Starting day 4 on the first ascent of Photomultiplier

    There's nothing like waking up to a sunrise on a big wall! Or dangling your legs over 1000 feet of exposure while eating canned peaches. There's also nothing like being caught in a lightning storm on a wall... or having a pee epic on a wall... or running out of water on a wall... or getting injured on a wall... or hiking up #$@#$&* scree to get to the base of a wall...
    I, hopefully with some of my awesome climbing partners for these climbs, will be sharing the more eventful stories from our ascents.
    El Capitan - Salathe (with Clint Cummins)
    Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face (with Paul Csonka)
    Washington Column - Southern Man (with Sharon Houck)
    Leaning Tower - West Face (with Chuck Booten)
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 7 (Sunday) Intro trip to Castle Rock
    Trip Leader: Eu-Jin See the classes page for more info.
    October 6 (Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total).
    See Warren's email for details on using the sites.
    October 3 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    2 people climbed - Clement, Clint.
    Conditions: breezy. Back at Stanford at about 8:30pm.
    October 1 (Monday), 7:45pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Eu-Jin Goh - Informal SAC trip to Peru - Cordillera Huayhuash and Blanca
    Our camp in Cuyoc pampa (4500 m).

    Following the SAC Intro Meeting for Fall Quarter 2007.
    In June 2007, I travelled to Peru to hike in the Cordillera Huayhuash and climb in the Cordillera Blanca.

    The Cordillera Huayhuash contains a stunning 12 day hiking circuit; I feel that the Huayhuash circuit is the best alpine hiking I've done so far --- better than the similar hikes in Patagonia. Also, Siula Grande, the scene of "Touching the Void", is located in the Cordillera Huayhuash, and we spent some time at Siula's base camp.

    After the Huayhuash circuit, I met up with former SAC presidents Chuck and Jared for a week of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. Our trip was quite successful --- With Jared, I acclimitized on Ishinca (5530 m) and then climbed Tocllaraju (6032 m), which was moderately technical. Chuck and Jared had earlier climbed Pisco (5750 m) and would later climb Chopicalqui (6354 m) as well. In addition, Chuck climbed Huascaran Sur (6768 m) instead of climbing Ishinca and Tocllaraju with us.

    A sneak preview of the slides can be found at
    http://eujingoh.com/pics/peru-2007
    The slideshow will contain about twice as many images and gives a better overview of the trip.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    October 1 (Monday), 7:00pm SAC Introductory meeting The first meeting for fall quarter, in Clark Center s360. map/directions
    September 2007
    September 29 (Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Room for 2 cars and 6 people in each site (so 4 cars and 12 people total).
    See Warren's email for details on using the sites.
    September 26 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    5 people climbed - Metha, Nik, Ian, Augustin, Clint.
    Conditions: perfect! Back at Stanford at about 8:30pm.
    September 22 (Saturday) 2 SAC campsites in Yosemite
    September 19 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    5 people climbed - Metha, Nik, Ian, Grit, Clint.
    Conditions: windy, cloudy, and fairly cold - brrrr! Back at Stanford at about 8:30pm.
    September 12 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock (cancelled)
    Sorry, this week's trip was cancelled - Clint was away doing one last big climb for the summer....
    September 4-10 informal trip to Smith Rock
    Informal trip, organised by Sharon.
    Some cars driving and at least one plane! See Sharon's email
    Who's went? Sharon, Dave, Chris Chan, Ian, Rasmus
    photos
    September 5 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    4 people climbed - Warren, Clint, Kester, Grit.
    Conditions: very nice. Back at Stanford at about 8:30pm.
    August 2007
    August 29 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    It did not happen [I think], as Clint didn't get his car back until 5pm, and realized he wouldn't be able to reach Tresidder until 5:20pm, at which point probably most folks waiting since 5pm would have left.... Sorry about that.
    August 26-28 (Sunday-Tuesday) informal trip to the Needles (Sequoia National Forest) Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    Who went? Clint, Claire, Koichi, Lin.
    August 22 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    4 people climbed - Rasmus, Clint, Idania, Wong.
    Conditions: very nice. Back at Stanford at about 8:45pm.
    August 5-10 informal trip to Bugaboos
    Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    Climb some granite classics in a really nice location. The weather varies, but can be fairly nice this time of year.
    2007 trip report with photos: by Steph
    2006 trip reports with photos: Steph   Cory
    route list  
    Who went? Clint, Steph. Dan Rampe + Hamid travelled separately; we met them up there and camped next to them.
    weather forecast for just south of the border in Montana which is near the Bugaboos and should have similar weather
    July 2007
    July 25 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    5 people climbed - Rasmus, Gerald, Clint, Alex, Irina.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at about 9:00pm.
    July 18 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock cancelled
    Cancelled due to a brief rain.
    July 11 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    It did not happen [I think], as Clint was delayed getting car parts in south San Jose and did not make it to Tresidder until 5:40pm.... Sorry about that.
    June 2007
    June 27 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    5 people climbed - Alex, Ian, Gerald, Chase, Clint.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at about 9:30pm.
    June 20 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    It did not happen [I think], as Clint was still busy climbing El Cap with Chris Chan.
    June 13 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    6? people climbed - Justin D, Patrick D, Alex, Brian, Mary, Clint.
    Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at about 9pm.
    June 6 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    7 people climbed - Cara, Devin, Alex, Irina, Justin, Clint, Gerald.
    Conditions: breezy and somewhat cold. Back at Stanford at about 9pm.
    June 4 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Yosemite Classics and Obscurities
    Darko on Hot Line
    The Cobra, Rixon's West, DNB, Cookie, Hot Line, Free Blast - are they classics or obscurities? Both? Check out the slides and decide for yourself!
    Location: Clark Center 360
    May 2007
    May 30 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    6 people climbed - Nathan, Austin, Clint, Aaron, Matt, Natalie.
    Conditions: nice (weather/temps). Not so nice with the honeybee that stung Natalie halfway up a climb! (She finished the climb anyway!) Back at Stanford at about 9pm.
    May 24-28+ informal trip to Smith Rock
    informal trip.
    Leader: Matt Farrell
    See Matt's email
    May 23 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 3 people attended - Justin D, Gerald, Clint
    We had 6 ropes set up. Justin worked on the cave traverse boulder problem. Conditions: about perfect - 70s and fairly calm Back at Stanford at about 9pm.
    May 21 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Matt Covington - High and Low Places in Lechuguilla Cave
    Over the past three years, I've gotten the privilege of joining three week-long expeditions into Lechuguilla Cave. Lechuguilla was discovered in 1986 in Carlsbad National Park. The cave is the 6th longest in the world with just over 120 miles of surveyed passage. It is also the deepest cave in the continental US. Many people consider it to be the most beautiful cave in the world. Only a few permits to access the cave are issued each year, typically for the purposes of research and exploration.

    I'll show photos from all three of my trips, and share some anecdotes about the various discoveries that we've made. Last year our trip was particularly successful as we surveyed over 6000 feet of new passage and pushed the cave over the 120 mile mark. The trip members have included some of the best cave photographers in the world. They have provided many of their photos for this presentation, so I promise not to disappoint. There will be fantastic photos of incredibly beautiful and bizzare places!
    Location: Tresidder, Sequoia Room

    May 19-20 Girls Can Crank weekend - Lover's Leap
    ready to crank

    Leaders: Erika Monahan, Sharon Houck, Chris Chan
    See Chris' email for more info.
    May 19-20 intermediate mountaineering outing - Bear Creek Spire, Dade/Abbott Peak
    Leader: Leor Pantilat
    See Leor's email
    May 19 (Saturday night) (2) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Contact Jared for more info. Last sites for the quarter.
    May 16 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 4 people attended - Justin D, Gerald, Clint, Jim Z
    We had 6 ropes set up. Conditions: windy and fairly cold. Back at Stanford at about 9pm.
    March 14 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Warren Caldwell - Pico de Orizaba
    Orizaba
    Over spring break, a five-person team headed south to sunny Mexico to attempt the volcanic Pico de Orizaba (18,480'), the tallest mountain in Mexico and the third highest in North America. We witnessed gun-toting rabbits, high-altitude graffiti artists, a sidewalk to nowhere at 14,000', Arabian tacos, the largest pyramid outside of Egypt, and irrefutable proof of time travel in the form of a thousand-year-old carving of Stan Marsh.

    Eu-Jin Goh, Paul Csonka, Serene Koh, Ray Woo and I made up the team. The climb itself was half rock (up to low 5th class, thanks to our botched route-finding) and half glacier. Come hear about our climb and our travels.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    May 12-13 informal trip to Yosemite
    Informal trip.
    organized by Clint
    We climbed at the Church Bowl on Saturday and at the Apron near Harry Daley on Sunday. Some people did multipitch independently but climbed a bit with the group on Saturday.
    Who went?
    Sharon, Paul M, Jim Z, Ann, Erik, Clint, Cory, Laura, Berry, Eliza, Morgan, Idania, Alez, Matt, Christian, David, Wong, Kent, Kent's friend
    See Clint's first email and second email
    May 12-13 Basic mountaineering climb - Matterhorn Peak
    Leader: Leor Pantilat
    A climb with a steep snow slope, so people can learn or refresh basic skills such as self-arrest, snow anchors and belays.
    See Leor's email
    May 12 (Saturday night) (2) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    They were well utilized!
    May 9 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 10 people attended - Justin D, Matt S, Aaron, Clint, Jim Z, Gerald, Devin, Alex, Dave, John.
    We had 6 ropes set up. Conditions: warm, then cooled off gradually. Back at Stanford at about 9pm.
    May 5-6 Lead Climbing class, at Lover's Leap (weekend 2 of 2)
    Leader: Chris Chan. See the classes page for more info.
    May 5 (Saturday night) (3) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    May 3 (Thursday) 6-7pm Lead Climbing lecture (2 of 2)
    Leader: Chris Chan
    Location: Clark Center Room s360, near Peet's Coffee map / directions
    May 2 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    CANCELLED due to the rain on Wednesday morning.
    April 2007
    April 30 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Matt Farrell - Indian Creek & Desert Towers
    Standing Rock
    Over spring break of this year, Jared Brown, Mike Kerzhner, Clint Cummins and I (aka. the four stooges) all piled into Jared's two door jeep (aka. the clown car), and make the 17 hour trek out to Moab to climb. We spent the first part of the week climbing at Indian Creek, sending amazing splitter cracks, and then headed over to Canyonlands to climb some towers, including the thing above!

    Come check out the photos and hear stories from our epic trip to Utah.
    Location: Tresidder Union, Sequoia Room, NOT Clark Center

    April 27-28 Informal climbing trip, in Yosemite
    Leader: Clint Cummins
    See Clint's email   trip report
    Who went?:
    Clint, Moritz, Martin, Aaron, Patience, Jared C, Ekin, Francisco, Koichi, Ian, Lindsay
    partnered: Eu-Jin & Justin D, Erika & Wyatt, Bjorn & Ben, Dan U & Bo, Cory & George
    partnered, driving from SF: Nathan B, Paola, 2 friends
    hiking: Ann, Erik, Kitty
    April 28 (Saturday night) (3) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    All sites were used on this nice weekend!
    April 24 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 11 people attended - Justin D, Vincent, Jared C, Matt S, Paul M, Aaron, Clint, John M-B, Emily D, Blaise and Keith.
    We had 6 ropes set up. Conditions: cool and breezy. Back at Stanford at about 9pm.
    April 25 (Wednesday), 6:30pm Arlene Blum reading/signing, at Stanford Bookstore Alcove

    Arlene Blum, chemist, author, mountaineer and mother, is best known for her groundbreaking role in opening the sport of mountaineering to women. She led the first American, all-women's team to the ascent of Annapurna I, considered one of the world's most dangerous and difficult mountains. In her new memoir, Breaking Trail: A Climbing Life, Blum recounts her journey from an overprotected childhood in Chicago to some of the highest peaks on earth and to a life lived on her terms. Breaking Trail is a testament to the power of taking risks and pursuing dreams.

    Arlene Blum is the founder of the annual Berkeley Himalayan Fair and the Burma Village Assistance Project. She helped found and serves on the board of the Society for the Preservation of Afghan Archeology. She is also on the board of ISET, an organization dedicated to solving climate, water and disaster problems in South Asia, and Read Nepal, which builds libraries and promotes development in Nepal. Blum also led the first women's team up Mt. McKinley; was the first American woman to attempt Mt. Everest; made the first traverse of the Great Himalaya Range of Bhutan, Nepal and India; and hiked the length of the European Alps with her baby daughter on her back. She has a doctorate in biophysical chemistry, and has taught at Stanford University, Wellesley College, and U. C. Berkeley. She lives in Berkeley, CA.

    April 23 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Matthew Scott - Kyajo Ri (Nepal)
    Kyajo Ri
    Five of us traveled last fall on a guided trip to Nepal, just after the overthrow of the King and as peace was being made with the Maoists. Our goal was Kyajo Ri, a 6000m trekking peak in the Khumbu region west of Everest. Our group included Jean-Claude Latombe, Prof. of Computer Science. We found the trip to be a delightful mix of trekking, encounters with the Sherpa people, and playing in the snow. We also rode elephants. The mountain was first opened to climbers relatively recently, and is pristine. We hope it will remain so. There seems to be new hope for stability and peace in Nepal, and it was interesting to witness early stages of that process.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    April 21-22 Lead Climbing class, in Yosemite (weekend 1 of 2)
    Leader: Jared Brown. See the classes page for more info.
    April 21 (Saturday night) (3) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Some sites will be used for the Lead Climbing Class; others are available. Contact Jared for details.
    April 19 (Thursday) 7-9pm Lead Climbing lecture (1 of 2)
    Leader: Jared Brown.
    Location: Clark Center Room s362 (NOT s360, near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    April 16 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Robert Chang - Everest Extreme - A Journey of Climbing in the High Himalaya
    Robert, blasted by high winds
    Join professional guide, climber and speaker Robert Chang for an exciting multi-media presentation on ascents on some of the Himalaya's most crowned jewels - Mount Everest and Ama Dablam. Standing at 29,035 feet, Mount Everest is one of the most difficult human endeavors ever. Hear stories about extreme conditions, tales of personal survival and the "journey" of how high altitude climbing takes Robert to special places. Learn more about his effort to climb high mountains throughout the world for cancer awareness (www.climbingforacure.org).

    Other topics will include colorful adventure trekking in the Mount Everest region and how you can find you own Everest in life. A hands-on display of extreme climbing gear will be on-site including shelter, ice and climbing tools, clothing and Everest oxygen systems.

    This talk will be dedicated to the passing of one of the mountaineering community's unique athletes, Christine Boskoff who was lost to climbing in late 2006. She was one of Rob's friends and one of the sports most accomplished female climbers with ascents on numerous 8000 meter peaks including 2 ascents of Mount Everest. There will be an opportunity to obtain Everest memorabilia including rare recovered oxygen bottles as well as Tibetan prayer flags.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    April 14 (Saturday night) (3) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    May be used for an Instructional Trip. Contact Jared for details.
    April 7 informal climb of Lost Arrow Spire
    (rescheduled from March 3-4)
    Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    The plan is to hike up the Yosemite Falls Trail with about 9 ropes, climb the outside face of Lost Arrow Spire, and set up the tyrolean traverse between the spire and rim. Any number of people can go across the tyrolean traverse, or up fixed ropes on the outside face. Probably only a few people can do the free or aid climb of the outside face. If you want to go, contact Clint.
    Logistics: drive up Friday night, sleep outside the park, climb Lost Arrow on Saturday, stay at SAC campsites, regroup for free climbing on Sunday.
    We'll have an ascender practice session on Wednesday April 4 - see above.
    Who went?
    Jared, Justin Brockman, Chris McGuiness, Sharon, Eric, Ian, Lena, Clint, Lance, Rich & Eu-Jin, Koichi, Colin, Steven Sheets & Ben Long
    diagram of climb and tyrolean:   PDF   GIF
    April 7 (Saturday night) (3) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Used for the Lost Arrow trip, but with plenty of space to spare.
    April 4 (Wednesday, 5pm) ascender/aid practice at Handley Rock
    Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    Practice with ascenders at Handley Rock, for the Lost Arrow Spire climb. Bring ascenders + aiders if you have them. I have a couple of pairs to lend, also. You can use prusiks, too. We'll set up a couple of fixed ropes to ascend, and a simulated tyrolean traverse.
    As usual with Handley trips, meet at 5pm at the bus stop in the Tresidder parking lot. map
    March 2007
    March 17 (Saturday night) (2) SAC campsites in Yosemite
    Contact Jared for details.
    In general, each site has space for 6 people and 2 cars, and are available to paid SAC members.
    Who was there? Jared, Clint, Lena, Sharon, Cory, Ian, Alex, Jeff + friend.
    March 15 (Thursday), 7pm special Slideshow/event - Jill Fredston

    Author of Snowstruck, Snow Sense, and Rowing to Latitude.
    an interview.
    Location: Building 420, room 040.
    March 10-11 Intro to telemarking
    Plus the classroom session on February 15
    Leaders: Ann + Erik See the classes page for more info.
    March 3-4 Intro to mountaineering class
    Leaders: Warren Caldwell, Eu-Jin Goh, Paul Csonka See the classes page for more info.
    (may be postponed due to avalanche danger)
    March 3-4 Snow Camping Clinic @ Kirkwood
    The clinic is run by Kirkwood guides, and carpools are organized by Ann. See Ann's email for more info.
    March 1 (Thursday), 7:30-9pm 2nd classroom session for Mountaineering class
    Location: Clark Center 360 [may possibly be moved to Wednesday February 28]
    Leader: Warren Caldwell See the classes page for more info.
    February 2007
    February 24-25 Intro to telemarking
    First of two weekend sessions.
    Leaders: Ann + Erik See the classes page for more info.
    February 22 (Thursday), 7:30-9pm 1st classroom session for Mountaineering class
    Location: Clark Center 360
    Leader: Warren Caldwell See the classes page for more info.
    February 15 (Thursday), 7-9pm classroom session for telemarking class
    Location: TBA, probably Clark Center S360
    Leader: Ann, Erik See the classes page for more info.
    February 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Eu-Jin Goh - Peru, Bolivia, Cascades and Sierras
    Soccer with two oranges at 13,000 ft on Isla del Sol, Bolivia.
    My slideshow will have 2 parts and will last approximately 45 mins.
    1) Peru and Bolivia
    In December 2006, I went to Peru and Bolivia. The plan was to climb one peak in the Cordillera Volcanica in Peru for acclimitization, and then travel to the Cordillera Real in Bolivia for more technical climbing. Unfortunately, bad weather moved in after my first acclimitization climb, cancelling all further climbing plans. For this part of the slideshow, I'll describe how not to acclimitize on a 19,000 foot volcano and also show slides of my travels in Peru and Bolivia.
    A sneak preview of some of the preliminary photos is at
    http://eujingoh.com/pics/peru-bolivia-2006/
    2) Mt Rainier, Mt Shasta, Matthes Crest, Cathedral Peak
    These 4 trips are among the better climbs that I've done in the last year and I'll show slides of these trips. A sneak preview of some of the slides for this part of the trip is at
    http://eujingoh.com/pics/climbing/highlights/index.html
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    February 3 (Saturday) Intro rock climbing class, at Castle Rock
    Trip Leader: Linnea
    Instructors: Björn, Clint, Kent
    Participants: Chase, Cara, Mindi, Christine, Nick, Greg, Adela, Dana, Keith
    photos   trip report
    See the classes page for more info.
    Rescheduled from January 27, due to rain.
    January 2007
    January 29 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Alpine Rock Climbs on the Early Winter Spires
    Steph on the crux of South Early Winter Spire, Direct East Buttress
    In the second half of our summer climbing trip, Steph Abegg and I travelled to Mazama, WA and enjoyed some nice long rock climbs on the South and North Early Winter Spires, next to Liberty Bell. Roadside alpine granite - pretty much irresistable!
    January 27 (Saturday), 2-5pm outdoor session for Crevasse Rescue class
    Location: at a field on campus, TBA
    Leader: Warren Caldwell See the classes page for more info.
    January 27 (Saturday) Intro rock climbing class, at Castle Rock
    Trip Leader: Linnea Williams
    Instructors: Björn Flatt, Clint Cummins
    Cancelled due to rain on Friday. Rescheduled for Feb. 3.
    January 25 (Thursday), 7-9pm classroom session for Crevasse Rescue class
    Location: TBA
    Leader: Warren Caldwell See the classes page for more info.
    January 22 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jared Brown - Adventures from the summer and winter break
    Mike and Jared, Romantic Warrior, pitch 5, photo by Alexander Cooper
    I'll be starting off the quarter showing pictures from climbing peaks back home in Colorado over the summer, as well as my attempt on Romantic Warrior in the Needles with Mike, with excellent rap-in photos from Alex Cooper. I'll also show pictures from a few peaks I climbed or attempted at home over winter break in an effort to get the snow gods to finally make the trip to the Sierras.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    January 22 (Monday), 7:00pm regular SAC meeting The first meeting for winter quarter, in Clark Center 360. map/directions
    January 14 (Sunday), 7:30am-dark informal trip to Pinnacles (East Side)
    Informal trip, organised by Darko.
    January 13-14 Intro to cross-country skiing class Classroom session on January 9.
    Leaders: Ann + Erik See the classes page for more info.
    January 9 (Tuesday), 7-9pm classroom session for Intro to cross-country skiing class
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    Leaders: Ann + Erik See the classes page for more info.
    December 2006
    December 4 (Monday), 7pm SAC meeting + slideshow In Cypress Room North, on the second floor of Tresidder Union.
    The trip schedule for Winter Quarter will be decided at this meeting.
    There is no slideshow scheduled at present, due to the proximity of exams. map
    December 3 (Sunday) informal trip to Yosemite
    Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    Leave from Tresidder parking lot at 6:00am Sunday morning, return at about 10:30pm. See Clint's email.
    Who went?
    Sat + Sun: Justin B, Chris M, Ken, Daniel, Colin, Heather
    Sun only: Darko, Clint, Moritz, Ian, Greg (to Church Bowl). Also Kent, Jennifer, et al to another spot.
    November 2006
    November 27 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Marshall Burke - Utah Cliffs and Canyons
    Clint on Scarface, Indian Creek
    light in Buckskin Gulch
    Come see photos of recent climbing and backpacking trips to southern Utah, a fantasy-land of sandstone towers and canyons, featuring many of your favorite SAC members past and present.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 27 (Monday), 7pm SAC meeting
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 26 (Sunday), 7:30am-dark informal trip to Pinnacles (West Side)
    Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    Leave from Tresidder parking lot at 7:30am Sunday morning, return at about 9pm. See Clint's email.   Shake and Bake, Balconies
    Who went? Ken, Jason K., Justin H., Martin, Maria, Charles, Ian, Clint   photos
    November 25 (Saturday), 7:30am-dark informal trip to Pinnacles (West Side)
    Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    Leave from Tresidder parking lot at 7:30am Saturday morning, return at about 9pm.
    Just announced on Friday, this is going to the same place as Sunday's trip. The forecast is 40% chance of rain for Sunday afternoon, so this may be a drier option.
    See Clint's email.   Shake and Bake, Balconies
    Who went? Justin B., Emily, Cory, Moritz, Greg, Ada, Clint   photos
    November 18-26 (Thanksgiving week) Informal trip to Joshua Tree
    Joshua Tree Bliss
    Informal trip, organised by Jared Brown.
    logistics and climbing info (about 18 people going, so far)
    November 15 (Wednesday), 3pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Cancelled due to the rain on Monday.
    Given the quick onset of shade and sunset on the previous trip, the Wednesday trips to Handley are probably tabled until sometime in February or so.
    November 13 (Monday), 7pm SAC meeting
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    November 13 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Matt Covington - Cueva J2: Recent Exploration in Sistema Cheve
    Bart Hogan, at 1300m (4300') depth
    Currently, the search is on to find the deepest cave in the world. The tallest mountains have been climbed, but many of the deepest caves in the world still await discovery. The Sierra de Juarez range in Oaxaca, Mexico contains the worlds deepest known cave hydrological system (Sistema Cheve). If Cueva Cheve were connected with the known resurgence of the system then it would become the world's deepest cave at more than 2500 meters deep (total vertical extent). The end of exploration in Cueva Cheve is now incredibly remote and difficult to reach. Consequently, in the last few years we have searched for an intermediate entrance which would provide closer access to the yet-unexplored mid Cheve system. In this search we discovered a new deep cave, Cueva J2, which was hoped to be a backdoor into the Cheve system. While J2 has not yet been linked with Cheve, it has been pushed to a depth of -1209 meters, making it the 6th deepest cave in the Western Hemisphere. The end of exploration is now approximately 9 km from the entrance, and three underground camps have been established.

    I first joined the Cheve project during 2004 when J2 was discovered. I'll recount a brief history of the Cheve project and tell the story of the exploration of J2. The 2004 expedition was supported by National Geographic, and you can find some online content at: magma.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/caverace
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    November 12 (Sunday), 7:30am-dark informal trip to Pinnacles (High Peaks)
    Informal trip, organised by Clint.
    Left from Tresidder parking lot at 7:30am Sunday morning, returned at about 9pm. See Clint's email.   Photographer's Delight, 5.2
    Who went?
    High Peaks: Clint, Eu-Jin, Jim Z., Sharon, Linnea, Aaron, Koichi, Francisco, Emily, Elissa, Colin, Justin, Lindsay, Alexis, Kenny, Ben, Liz. The main group climbed at Long's Folly, South Finger, North Finger, Condor Crags, plus Burgundy Dome, Piglet and The Unmentionable.
    Monolith: Dan, Mike, Simon
    November 8 (Wednesday) 3pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 3pm. 4 people attended - Simon, Justin D., Clint, and Linnea.
    We had 7 ropes set up. Conditions: cool, windy and shady. Back at Stanford before 6pm.
    November 6 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Alpine Granite Classics in Washington
    goat below Prusik Peak - photo by Steph Abegg
    In July, I teamed up with Steph Abegg (recent SAC alum living near Vancouver BC) for some of the best long alpine rock climbs to be found in Washington. Over ten days, we managed to do the complete North Ridge of Mt. Stuart (better than the version in 50 Classic Climbs), the South Face of Prusik Peak, and then took on some harder routes near Liberty Bell. Taking advantage of the best summer weather in 40 years, we found some nice climbs and no crowds except possibly a herd of goats. :-) If you can't make it, or want a preview, check out Steph's trip reports.
    Location: Cypress South, Tresidder map
    November 4 (Saturday) Intro trip, to Castle Rock
    Cancelled due to recent rains, which make the sandstone vulnerable to damage. It will be rescheduled, but a new date has not been chosen yet.
    Instructors: Björn Flatt, Paul Csonka. See the classes page for more info.
    November 1 (Wednesday), 3pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Cancelled due to some light rain on Wednesday morning.
    October 2006
    October 30 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Bryan Palmintier - Mountaineering, Canoeing and Canoe Mountaineering in Alaska
    Tresidder, Cypress North (NOT Clark Center)
    canoe mountaineering on the Stikine

    Fun slides from Alaska where I spent one month last summer instructing a NOLS Mountaineering course in the Chugach Mountains (Nelchina & Science Glaciers). 30 days of glacier travel, technical skills practice and beautiful scenery. Plus pictures and stories from later in the summer when I took a beautiful person canoe trip down the Stikine River from Telegraph Creek, BC to Wrangell, AK with Michele, Becca K, Eric W, Martha and my mom! And yep, this is where the canoe mountaineering happened...
    Location: Cypress North, Tresidder map

    October 28 (Saturday) Anchors I class, at Castle Rock Instructors: Darko Sarenac, Sam Chang, Irena Zaks. See the classes page for more info.
    October 23 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Leor Pantilat - North Cascades Mountain Photography 2006
    Mount Goode, NE Buttress
    This show features mountain scenery photography from a collection of trips in the Cascade Mountains last summer, primarily in North Cascades National Park. Climbs include the Northeast Buttress of Mount Goode, Forbidden Peak, Dorado Needle, North Face of Mount Shuksan, among others. I will provide insights into techniques for fast and light mountain climbing and also discuss the effects of climate change on North Cascades glaciers. For a preview of the highlights, visit: http://www.stanford.edu/~pantilat/highlights2006.htm.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 23 (Monday), 7:00pm regular SAC meeting
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 23 (Monday), 6:00-7:15pm Conradin von Gugelberg Memorial Lecture - Yvon Chouinard - Let My People Go Surfing
    Yvon Chouinard
    Each year, Stanford^Òs Public Management Program hosts the Conradin von Gugelberg Memorial Lecture on the Environment to explore the intersection of business and environmental sustainability. We would like to extend an invitation to you to attend this year^Òs event with Yvon Chouinard, founder of Patagonia. GSB Professor Erica Plambeck will host a fireside chat with the environmental enthusiast on the evening of Monday, October 23rd, beginning at 6:00PM. The event, titled ^ÓLet My People Go Surfing^Ô from Mr. Chouinard^Òs recent book, is open and free to the public on a first come first served basis. To register go to http://www.gsb.stanford.edu/pmp/events/cvg_yvon06.html Seats are running out quickly. The von Gugelberg Memorial Fund was established by members of the Stanford MBA Class of 1987 to honor the memory of their classmate, Conradin von Gugelberg, who died shortly after graduation.  Inspired by Conradin's love for the outdoors and commitment to environmental protection, particularly conservation and recycling, the von Gugelberg Fund aims to promote an environmental ethic among Stanford GSB students and alumni. "Let My People Go Surfing" Patagonia founder, Yvon Chouinard October 23, 2006 Bishop Auditorium Stanford Graduate School of Business 6:00PM - 7:15 PM, followed by a reception
    Location: Bishop Auditorium, Stanford Graduate School of Business
    October 21-22 (Saturday-Sunday) Anchors II class, in Yosemite Valley Leader: Darko Sarenac, with Jared Brown and Matt Farrell. See the classes page for more info.
    October 19 (Thursday) 7:30pm Classroom session for Anchors II class, Meyer Library 144 Leader: Darko Sarenac, with Jared Brown and Matt Farrell. See the classes page for more info.
    October 16 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jared Brown - Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome
    Jared Brown leading the Robbins Traverse
    In June, after various partners falling through due to injury, graduation, and being "too weak," Sam, Erica, and I made a successful attempt at our first big wall. We weren't the most prepared party, as a couple weeks before the only actual aid leading any of us had done was a short bolt ladder I'd done a few years earlier that started off the roof of my car, and even Clint seemed somewhat sketched out that we were going. Another not so positive factor was that Erica pinched a nerve right before we left, and didn't have full use of her right arm. Despite all of this, we managed to get up in three days, learning along the way how to climb with a pack, jumar somewhat efficiently, climb in the dark, and set up camp and actually try to sleep in a harness. As it turned out, the climbing itself wasn't all that difficult, which was good, as dealing with the logistics of a big wall was enough for us to deal with.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    October 14 (Saturday) Intro trip to Castle Rock Trip Leader: Sharon Houck See the classes page for more info.
    photos from the trip
    October 14 (Saturday), 12 noon SAC reunion in Atherton. Contact Irene Beardsley for more info, if you are a SAC alumni and did not get the email on August 20 with all the details. Or check with Chris Chan if you are a current SAC member and would like to attend.
    October 13 (Friday) 6:30pm Belay skills session for Intro class At the Stanford Climbing Wall. See the classes page for more info.
    October 9 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Darko Sarenac - Some Classic Multipitch Climbs in Squamish
    The Sword pitch on the Grand Wall, on Darko's agenda for next year
    The Stawamus Chief (often referred to as simply The Chief) is a colossal dome of granitic rock located adjacent to the town of Squamish, British Columbia. At 2300 feet above sea level, it towers over the waters of nearby Howe Sound. Although it is not, as is often claimed, the "second largest granite monolith in the world", the Chief still is truly an awe-inspiring sight.

    In late July and early August and then again in September, with a variety of partners (Patrick Girard, Cathy Lee, Steph Abegg, Bo Earle, and some of my local Squamish friends) I have climbed some of the better known multipitch climbs on The Chief. The climbs ranged from 5.8 - 5.11- in difficulty, from crack and slab, to even some bolted face in variety, and from meager 2 to all of 23 pitches in length.

    My goal in the presentation is to provide not only some of the details of the climbs but also some general info about climbing in Squamish.

    October 4 (Wednesday) informal trip to Handley Rock
    was cancelled by rain.
    October 2 (Wednesday), 7:30pm SAC intro meeting
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    If you couldn't make it, but want to participate in SAC, see the membership page to join the climbing email list, fill out a survey, and check the calendar page for the trip schedule.
    September 2006
    September 27 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. Approx. 7 people attended - Justin D., Sam, Moritz, Justin __, Clint, Chris, Adam.
    Justin D. made it up the main overhang (5.11d)! (He's the third person in our group to climb it this year, besides Nicolas and Clint). We had 7 ropes set up. Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at 8:30pm.
    September 20 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 7 people attended - Justin D., Sam, Darko, Moritz, Jason, Clint, David. We had 7 ropes set up. Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at 8:30pm.
    September 13 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 6 people attended - Clint, Eu-Jin, Adam, Justin D., Adam, Chris. We had 7 ropes set up. Conditions: nice. Back at Stanford at 8:30pm.
    September 6 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 8 people attended - Clint, Claudia, Nate, Michael, Moritz, and Eu-Jin. We had 7 ropes set up. Conditions: slightly warm for awhile, but nice at sunset. Back at Stanford at 8:30pm. Moritz's photos
    August 2006
    August 30 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 8 people attended - Helmut, Clint, Eu-Jin, Adam, Mary, and Timo. We had 7 ropes set up. Conditions: slightly warm but nice temps. Back at Stanford at 8:30pm.
    August 26-27-28 informal trip to the Needles Organized by Clint. description of trip
    Needles climbing info
    Who went?
    26-28: Clint, Darko, Jared, Jennifer, Nicolas
    26-27: Aaron, Mike, Sam Chang, Justin D.
    26: Alexander - check out his awesome photos of Mike and Jared on Romantic Warrior
    August 23 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 8 people attended - Eu-Jin, Adam, Mary, Clint, David, Chris, Andy, and Alice. We had 7 ropes set up. Conditions: very nice temps. Back at Stanford at 9pm.
    August 16 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 4 people attended - Sam Payne, Clint, Eu-Jin, and Darko. We had 5 ropes set up. Conditions: very nice temps. Back at Stanford at 8:45pm.
    July 2006
    July 29-30-31 informal trip to the Needles Organized by Clint. description of trip
    Needles climbing info
    Who went?
    Sam, Nicolas, Fortune, Mike, Clint
    July 26 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 6 people attended - Michael, Johanna, Eu-Jin, Clint, Justin and Lindsay. We had 5 ropes set up. Conditions: pretty hot, although not quite as scorching as June 21. No mosquitoes. Back at Stanford before dark.
    July 24 (Monday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Contact Jared for details.
    July 19 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 6 people attended - Menesha, Eu-Jin, Chris, Clint, Yoni and Hilla. We had 5 ropes set up. Conditions: hot, although not quite as scorching as June 21. No mosquitoes. Back at Stanford before dark.
    June 2006
    June 28 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 7 people attended - Matt, Aaron, Justin, Mike, Clint, David and John. We had 5 ropes set up. Conditions: hot, although not quite as scorching as June 21. Back at Stanford at various times.
    June 24-25 informal trip to the Needles
    Who went?
    Clint, Brian Cox (from Bay Area)
    Alexander, Hristo (from LA)
    June 21 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 6 people attended - Jared, Clint, Ben, Jared, Sam, Aaron. We had 5 ropes set up. Conditions: pretty darn hot! Back at Stanford at 8:40pm.
    June 17-18 informal trip to the Needles
    Who went?:
    Clint, Anne-Soisig (from Bay Area)
    Alexander (from LA)
    June 17 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Contact Jared for details.
    June 14 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 6 people attended - Nicolas, Clint, Ying, David, John, Natalie. We had 5 ropes set up. Conditions: cloudy, breezy and cool - we eventually hid down at the lower rock to get out of the breeze. Only a few mosquitoes. Back at Stanford at 9:20pm.
    June 7 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm. 2 people attended - Aaron, Clint. Although we just had a "skeleton crew" (due to impending finals?), we got a lot of good climbing in. We had 6 ropes set up. Conditions: nice. Didn't see any mosquitoes. Back at Stanford at 8:30pm.
    June 5 (Monday), 6pm-9pm SAC Potluck Location: Blackwelder, at the picnic tables outside.
    Nice gathering! Besides all the recent SAC presidents and active members, several SAC alumni attended, such as Irene Beardsley, Brian Cox, and Mike Warburton.
    May 2006
    May 31 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    4 people attended - Nicolas, Natalie, Matt, Clint.
    Another nice session - everyone got up some new routes, including the overhang direct/dyno, and we worked on the traverse from the crack to the overhang.
    We had 5 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice. Didn't see any mosquitoes. Back at Stanford at 9:30pm.
    May 24 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    9 people attended - Sam, Nicolas, Chris, Natalie, Justin, Jim, Clint.
    Nice session - Nicholas did the main overhang, and the right side overhang twice. Sam nearly did the main overhang.
    We had 7 ropes set up.
    Conditions: fairly cool and a little breezy. Not many mosquitoes at sunset. Back at Stanford at 9:30pm.
    May 22 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jean-Claude Latombe - Experiences of an Amateur Climber on High Peaks
    Lobutche East - Amadablam in the background
    I will talk about some of the climbs I did (or attempted) on high-elevation peaks, in particular Amadablam (1997), Mustagh Ata (2000), Makalu (2001) and Cho Oyu (2001 and 2002). Climbing high peaks is expensive and requires determination, as well as some luck. I will talk on how one may try to maximize his/her chances of success, as well as on the fact that (in my opinion) climbing high peaks is not the most enjoyable type of mountaineering activity.
    Location: Tresidder, Cypress South
    May 21 (Sunday) Intro trip, probably at Castle Rock Leader: Björn Flatt. Details to follow. See the classes page for more info.
    May 20 (Saturday) Anchors I class, probably at Castle Rock Leader: Niloy Mitra. Details to follow. See the classes page for more info.
    May 17 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    9 people attended - Aaron, Sam, Nicolas, Clint, Paul, Eu-Jin, Darko, Cathy and Chloe.
    We had 7 ropes set up.
    Conditions: warm at first, then it cooled off nicely. A few mosquitoes at sunset. Back at Stanford at 9:10pm.
    May 15 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Grzegorz Malewicz - Cycling and Hiking in Kyrgyzstan
    real mountain biking
    Kyrgyzstan is like Switzerland, only much higher. It is the home to Pik Pobieda 7439m, Pik Lenin 7134m, a spectacular pyramid-like Chan Tengri 6995m, plenty unclimbed mountains, windy dirt roads leading to 3000m and over passes, and many half-nomads living in yurts and grazing horses on high altitude pastures. My friends and I spent one month in this Central Asian country, cycling to the top of Chon Ashu 3822m and Kugart 3100m passes, and hiking along the Lenin Glacier beyond Camp 1 for Pik Lenin 7134m ( map). Come and see our journey at the slideshow ( preview).
    Location: Tresidder, Cypress South
    May 13-14 (Saturday-Sunday) Lead Climbing class Leader: Chris Chan. Instructors: Jared, et al. Second of 2 weekends for class; first is April 29-30. Held at Tollhouse. See the classes page for more info.
    May 10 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    9 people attended - Aaron, Matt, Menesha, Clint, Claudia and Nat, plus Sam, Darko, and Johnny were there from 3:30-5.
    We had 5 ropes set up.
    Conditions: warm, with mosquitoes at sunset. :-( Back at Stanford at 9pm.
    April 2006
    April 29-30 (Saturday-Sunday) Lead Climbing class, in Yosemite Leader: Matt Farrell. Instructors: Jared, Niloy, Marshall, et al. First of 2 weekends for class; second is May 13-14. Campsite in Yosemite for this class. Details to follow. See the classes page for more info.
    April 27 - May 4 Indian Creek (informal trip #2)
    Erika on Scarface, 4/03, photo by Alexander Cooper
    Indian Creek (informal trip), in the Canyonlands, near Moab, UT.
    Who's going? Erika, Clint, Seth, Amy, et al. Erik Neumann (Clint's friend) should be there also, at the end of his 4 week visit. Contact Erika to coordinate.
    April 26 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Darko.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    10 people attended.
    April 24 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jared Brown - The Maze - The Real Canyonlands
    The Land of the Standing Rocks from www.utahtrails.com
    Over spring break I went on a 5 day backpacking trip with my parents to the Maze, the most remote part of the Canyonlands. There's a good reason why few people visit, since it's 50 miles of off-road driving to get there, and when you hit the sign saying "high clearance four wheel drive," they aren't joking; this isn't a 4x4 road you'll ever take a rental Malibu down. The maze itself is the sweetest place I've been in the desert, since as the name implies, there's probably hundreds of side canyons, and virtually no people. This isn't a spot to make a short trip to, but if you want to make an extended trip to a true wilderness area in a national park, it can't be beat.
    Location: VPSA Conference Room (next to the computer LAIR on the 2nd floor of Tresidder)
    April 17 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - The Nose, El Capitan
    The Nose, El Capitan

    There are certain formations in Yosemite which you notice and want to climb them immediately! The Nose is one of these (as are Half Dome and Sentinel Rock, to name just a few). I had done it a few times in the past, but I wanted more! Heck, it had been over 10 years since my last time, right? So Johan Hvenmark and I teamed up for an early June ascent. Come by and see what happened to us on one of the Valley classics. Johan on the pitch above the King Swing
    Location: Tresidder, Cypress South map
    April 13 (Thursday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Contact Matt for details.
    April 8 or 9 (Saturday or Sunday) Intro trip, probably at Castle Rock
    Rained out :-(
    Leader: Chris Chan.
    Details and updates on Chris' page.
    See the classes page for more info.
    April 8-9 (Sat.-Sun.) Wilderness First Aid (WFA) 2-day class
    Cost: $80-100. $50 for SAC instructors. See Sarah's email for details.
    April 5 (Wednesday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Contact Matt for details. Sorry about the strange day. Matt asked for Saturdays using the mail order reservation system, but sometimes got other days instead.
    March 2006
    March 25-April 3 (Spring break) Wilderness First Responder (WFR) 10-day class
    $375; financial aid available. Deadline to apply for financial aid is January 15. See Redwood WFR page or Stanford Outdoors Newsletter Albert's 12/8/05 email or Stanford Outdoors Newsletter 10/6/05 edition for details.
    March 16 (Thursday), 7-8pm meeting of SAC Instructors To plan trip schedule for Spring quarter, nominate new officers, etc.
    At the Geo Corner lounge.
    March 13 (Monday), 7:30pm SAC slideshow - Justen Sjong - Big Wall Adventures
    Justen Sjong on the Free Muir (p23), El Capitan zoom in
    Justen Sjong presents an exciting multi-media Presentation on big wall free climbing. First ascents in the southern Arrigetch in the Alaskan, Brooks Range are described as well as El Capitan's new Free Muir. Justen will share strategy and insights for free climbing big walls.
    Location: Building 320 (Geology corner), room 105. road map   campus map
    full size poster 8MB
    March 11 (Saturday) informal anchors session The main workshop has been cancelled due to continuing wet/snowy weather. However, a few people who had been planning on the class will be getting together to review a few anchor skills. Weather permitting and location to be determined. Contact Chris Chan for details.
    This is not a SAC instructional trip. It is an informal trip, so you are responsible for your own safety. Hopefully some anchors practice can be accomplished if the weather is not too unfriendly.
    Jared's original email announcement
    March 10 (Friday), 7-10pm self-rescue Workshop
    Belay escape and prusiking practice. We learned a few new tricks, like the Mule knot and the Mariner's knot (for load release; works with a sling), and practiced belay escapes and some prusiking. Presented by Bryan and Polly.
    See Bryan's email
    knots and self-rescue technique on E.C. Joe's page
    March 6 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Ofir Cohen - Backpacking and Hiking on the Silk Road
    scenes from the Silk Road
    Ofir has been backpacking and hiking extensively in remote areas in Central Asia and in the Caucasus along the ancient Silk Road both in 2000 and recently in 2004.

    Central Asia encompasses a few of the highest mountain ranges in the world such as the Pamir and the Tian Shan and offers superb hiking and climbing opportunities together with a unique cultural experience and very few tourists.

    Ofir will unfold the beauty of this area with photos and maps and will share his own experiences with you.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions

    February 2006
    February 25-26 Telemark Backcountry Workshop Led by Marshall.
    Marshall's email announcement
    photo from the trip
    February 23 (Thursday), 7-9pm classroom session for Telemark Workshop Location TBA.
    February 18-20 informal rock climbing trip, to Joshua Tree No official "logistics coordinator". Unfortunately the weather report was for snow....
    Marshall's trip report
    Joshua Tree climbing info & past logistics
    February 13 (Monday), 7:30pm SAC slideshow - Louis Reichardt - Nanda Devi - Triumph and Tragedy
    Nanda Devi, 7816m - NW Buttress on the left skyline, photo by Arun Bhat
    climber rappelling on Nanda Devi NW Buttress, 1976 photo by John Roskelly

    Louis Reichardt was one of three Americans to climb Nanda Devi via a difficult new route (NW Face to N Buttress) in 1976. Nanda Devi, first climbed in 1936 by a joint British-American expedtion, was the highest mountain climbed until 1950. The expedition was co-led by Ad Carter (who was on the 1936 climb) and Willi Unsoeld, who climbed the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 and whose daugher, Nanda Devi Unsoeld was named after the peak and was a climber on this expedition. Come and see the story and pictures of the 1976 climb which was not short on difficulty or tragedy.

    Prior to Nanda Devi, Louis Reichardt had climbed Dhaulagiri in 1973, and in 1978 he went on to make the third ascent of K2. And in 1983, he climbed a new (and unrepeated) route on the East (Kangshung) Face of Mt. Everest. He is also a past president of the American Alpine Club. Rumor has it that Lou could also be spotted in the early 70s (when he was a grad student at Stanford), training for the big mountains by hiking with a heavy backpack up Page Mill Road!

    February 6 (Monday), 7:30pm SAC slideshow - Eu-Jin Goh - Scrambling, Hiking, and Travelling in Chile's Atacama Desert, Bolivia's Altiplano, and Patagonia.
    Three hikers at the bottom of the North ridge of Cerro Toco
    Eu-Jin will be showing photos from his trip over winter break to South America. The first part will be about scrambling up a 18400 foot Chilean volcano with a stunning backdrop, the second part will be about a trip into the Bolivian Altiplano with some unearthly scenery, and the third part will be about backpacking the Paine Circuit in Torres del Paine and Fitzroy and Cerro Torre in Los Glacieres National Park.
    Here's a preview of some slideshow photos
    February 4-5 informal rock climbing trip, to Yosemite Organized by Clint.
    Who went? Clint, Jennifer, Kali, Tim, Sam, Natalie, Darko, & Frank. We climbed at Manure Pile Buttress on Saturday and at Five Open Books on Sunday.
  • Clint's email announcement
  • February 4-5, 8am-5pm Wilderness First Responder class
    SIGN UP FOR WILDERNESS FIRST AID (Feb 4-5) and CPR (Feb 8)

    SPOT will be hosting a wilderness first aid (WFA) class on campus the weekend of February 4-5. The class will run from 8AM - 5PM both Saturday and Sunday. There will also be a separate CPR class offered on Wednesday, February 8 from 6:30-10:30 PM.

    The classes are both taught by Bobbie Foster (www.fostercalm.com), and come highly recommended by those who have taken them. Anyone who spends any time in the backcountry should seriously consider this training - plus it's lots of fun! The cost for WFA is $100 ($80 for Stanford Outdoors instructors and SOOP leaders in training), and the cost for CPR is $30 ($25 for Stanford Outdoors instructors and SOOP leaders in training).

    if you think you might be interested, send an e-mail to spot-coordinators AT lists.stanford.edu and we will contact you with more information on how to sign up. If you believe you qualify for the reduced price, let us know that too (and which group you represent).

    January 2006
    January 28 (Saturday) Avalanche Backcountry Workshop Led by Michele and Bryan. At Carson Pass.
    email announcement
    January 28 & 29 informal rock climbing trips, to Pinnacles Organized by Clint. (This weekend was planned for Tollhouse, but the weather forecast went downhill, unfortunately.)
  • Clint's email announcement
  • trip report photos
  • January 26 (Thursday), 7-10pm classroom session for Avalanche Workshop
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 or s361 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    If you couldn't make it to the classroom session, an alternative way to learn much of this material is to read the book Snow Sense.
    January 23 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Bryan Palmintier - Mountaineering in Alaska, Summer 2005
    Glacier Camping, photo by K. Bay
    Bryan will be showing slides (the good old fashon 35mm kind) from 6 weeks of mountaineering in Alaska's Chugach Mountains this past summer. Huge glaciers, funky weather, technical glacier travel and bush plane logistics with the beauty of Alaska as a backdrop. The first part will be pictures from instructing a NOLS Mountaineering Course and the second part are pictures from a personal trip with Michele. After the show, Bryan will stick around to answer questions about mountaineering in AK and about NOLS in general.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    January 23 (Monday), 7pm first SAC meeting of Winter quarter, announcement of trip schedule
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map / directions
    January 17 (Tuesday), 7pm meeting of SAC Instructors, Clark S360 To set up the schedule of winter quarter trips.
    December 2005
    December 5 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Dr. Cagan Sekercioglu - Fascinating Sulawesi: A Unique Island in Indonesia
    nesting terns, Great Barrier Reef
    Sulawesi is one of the main islands of Indonesia. It is shaped like an amoeba and is situated in Wallacea, the transition zone between Asian and Australian biomes. Sulawesi has a unique fauna, with thousands of species not found anywhere else, including tiny primates that look like gremlins.

    Cagan Sekercioglu, a nature photographer and a Stanford postdoc specializing in the conservation and ecology of tropical birds, spent ten days on the island to study and photograph its fantastic bird community, roughly 90 species of which are found only on Sulawesi and the surrounding islands. Since Sulawesi also has some of the best diving in the world, Cagan also spent some time underwater. He will talk about the unique biodiversity, culture and landscape of this breathtaking island that is now threatened with religous warfare and rapid habitat destruction.

    You can see some of Cagan's photos on www.naturalphotos.com and his articles on www.stanford.edu/~cagan/main.html

    November 2005
    November 28 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Dan Arnold and John Montgomery-Brown - An FA in the Yosemite Backcountry
    Whorl Mountain
    In August 2005 Dan Arnold and John Montgomery-Brown climbed the North Ridge of Whorl Mountain. The peak was beautiful, massive, and complex, and the route had never been climbed before. John will provide the pictures, and Dan will provide the blathering.
    Location: Clark Center s361 (note room change from s360). map/directions
    November 19-27 (Thanksgiving break) informal trip to Joshua Tree
    Joshua Tree Bliss
    Organised by Chris Chan
    logistics and climbing info
    November 19-27 (Thanksgiving break) informal trip - alpinists - early season winter mountaineering in the Sierras Organised by David Fogg
    Possible objectives: Mt. Whitney - Mountaineer's Route, Middle Palisade - NE Face, Mt. Humphries - East Ridge.
    See David's email for the details.
    November 14 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Leor Pantilat - Rock and Ice: The Fabled Picket Range
    Southern Picket Range
    This show features mountain scenery photography from climbing adventures in North Cascades National Park, Washington State. The feature outing is a five-day trip traversing the Northern Picket Range in late July last summer. These peaks, a sub-range within the greater Cascade Range, are aptly named for their resemblance to a picket fence. Located in the most remote and rugged region in the contiguous 48 states, a physical (and perhaps mental) price must be paid to enter this wild and unfettered land. With a storied history and summit names like Challenger, Fury, Terror, Crooked Thumb, and Phantom, the Pickets have become mythical in the climbing community. The setting of towering rock faces, glaciers, and alpland meadows makes for stunning photography opportunities. In addition, the slideshow will present photos from the Eldorado Ice Cap, a separate trip in a different section of North Cascades National Park.

    If you are not sure whether to come, or you don't mind ruining the suspense, you can view some of the highlights at http://www.stanford.edu/~pantilat/highlights2005.htm.
    Location: 7:30p, Clark Center s360 (near Peet's Coffee) map/directions

    November 12-13 Anchors 2 class in Yosemite Lead instructor: Clint Cummins
    Instructors: John, Sam, Darko
    Saturday: build belay anchors with gear, practice multipitch belay protocols.
    Sunday: moderate multipitch climbs, led by instructors.
    See Clint's email
    November 10 (Thursday), 7-9pm Anchors 2 classroom session Open to all who want to learn about building gear anchors, multipitch climbing, and multiple rappels. detailed outline of talk at classroom session detailed curriculum of class+trip
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee)
    November 7 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jared Brown - Spring Break, Sandstone, and Snow
    Jared - Battle of the Bulge
    For last spring break, Clint, Johan, and I made a trip out to Indian Creek in hopes of climbing lots of perfect cracks under sunny skies. There was a decent amount of that, but we also were around for all the precipitation the Moab area got for 2 months. Marshall and Polly also met us out there, and seemed to have a 6th sense about the weather, since they showed up just before the longest stretch of good weather, and decided to leave just before it started raining again. Johan had to fly back half way through the week, and Clint and I managed to make an ascent of Castleton tower, although we were once again shut down by the weather on Moses. Next time, I think the ski rack will have to come along too.
    Location: Clark Center Room s360 (near Peet's Coffee)
    October 2005
    October 29 (Saturday) Intro / beginner class at Castle Rock Lead instructor: Arthur Rallu
    The class of 12 is full and there are 6 people on the waiting list.
    October 30 (Sunday) End of Daylight Savings Time No more midweek 5pm Handley trips until the spring....
    October 24 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Return to the Needles
    Alexander - Love Potion #9
    Tucked away in an obscure corner of the southern Sierras is a unique climbing area with amazingly featured granite and striking faces of green, brown and yellow lichen. Most people have seen it in the magazines, but few have climbed there, and it had been 15 years since my last visit when Alexander moved to LA and it became a natural place to meet. We hit it on opening weekend and 3 more times with SAC partners old and new. Come and see some of what we found in this beautiful climber's paradise.
    Location: Tresidder courtyard, outside the CoHo.
    October 23 (Saturday) Intro / beginner class at Castle Rock Lead instructor: John Montgomery-Brown
    October 22 (Saturday) Anchors 1 class at Castle Rock Lead instructor: Niloy Mitra
    October 22-23 informal trip to Yosemite Organised by Clint
    Multipitch rather than toproping this time. We all people drove up on Friday night. See Clint's email for more details.
    Who went:
  • Clint, Chris Chan, Christopher Bourez, Steph Abegg, Frank, Ron Geller, Darko, Analisa, Arnold, Blair
  • Saturday Clint, Steph, Christopher, Frank, Chris, and Ron climbed Braille Book, including the last pitch in the dark.
    Darko and Analisa climbed Grack Center and Harry Daley
  • Sunday Darko, Analisa, Chris and Christopher climbed Goodrich Pinnacle Right Side (except final 2 pitches). Ron and Steph climbed Chouinard Crack/Harry Daley and Grack Center. Clint and Frank climbed Chouinard Crack and Harry Daley.
  • October 19 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    3 people attended - Barbara, Clint, and Lukasz. Just down to a "skeleton crew" this late in the season!
    We had 4 ropes set up.
    Conditions: cool, and dark by 7pm, so barely enough time to climb.
    October 17 (Monday) 7-10pm competition at the new Whiting Family Climbing Wall At the (newly opened) Arrillaga Family Recreation Center. photos, results and credits
    October 15 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite
    Polly, Marshall, Steph G., Jacob, Clint, and Chris Chan stopped by Upper Pines to hang out.
    October 15-16 informal trip to Mt. Russell
    See Marc Hesse's email for details.
    It snowed! photo by Christopher Boulez
    October 12 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    4 people attended - Justin, Björn, Clint, and Lukasz.
    We had 6 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice, but getting dark before 7:30.
    October 10 (Monday) 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Chuck Booten - Denali - The High One (20,320'/6,192m)
    Chuck at the summit
    Denali is the highest mountain in North America and the most northern of any big mountain in the world (63 deg North). This mountain is HUGE and COLD! From base to summit its the largest mountain in the world, even larger than Everest. The high latitude creates some of the worst weather anywhere, temperatures routinely drop to -40 deg F (or C) in spring! This May I and a friend, Ryan Maupin, climbed the West Buttress on Denali. This is the standard route but its not easy: 2 people unfortunately died this year and we saw 3 people fall ~50' into a crevasse. when you add 150+lbs (70 kg+) of gear and 3 weeks on the mountain it gets really serious, really fast. We still had a great time though and have some really great pics and beta for anyone else who's thinking about Denali.

    Location - outside in the Tresidder courtyard near the Treehouse.
    It's going to be a great start to this years slideshow series: please show up to witness the exploits of our former SAC president.
    October 9 (Sunday) informal trip to Yosemite Organised by Clint + Jared.
    We drove up on Saturday night. On Sunday we climbed in the nice October weather:
  • Lower Cathedral Spire - South by Southwest - Jared + Darko photos
  • Lower Cathedral Spire - Regular Route - Sam + James
  • Middle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress - Clint + Anne-Soisig, Christopher + Niloy (we had an epic 7.5 hour descent from this in the dark with a single headlamp...)
  • October 5 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    10 people attended - Ben, Steph A., Aaron, Matt, Clint, Sam, Lukasz, Patrick, James, and a climber to be named later.
    We had 6 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice; getting dark by 7:30.
    October 3 (Monday) 8pm Intro meeting for fall quarter Tresidder 2nd floor (Cypress North) map
    A general presentation for everyone who wants to know what SAC does and what is happening this quarter. Matt's email
    October 3 (Monday) 7pm SAC Officers + Instructors meeting Tresidder 2nd floor (Cypress?)
    We will discuss the trip schedule for fall quarter, trip safety, a discount WFR course, and possible prodeals for instructors. Matt's email
    October 1-2 informal trip to Yosemite Valley Organised by Clint.
    photos from the trip
    15 people participated: Clint, Andrea, Charles-Henri, Björn, Darko, Sam, Etienne, Steph Abegg, Justin, Lindsay, Barbara, Natalie, Jennifer, Doug, and Alyssa.
    Saturday: we did some crack climbing training on Positively 4th Street and Nutty Buddy, as well as toproping attempts on Absolutely Sweet Marie, and half a pitch of My Left Foot. Darko and Etienne climbed 1-2 pitches above Positively 4th Street, but this is not recommended for the future as there are a lot of loose rocks up there and some were knocked down by mistake (fortunately to the side of us, but still scary).
    Sunday: we climbed at the Church Bowl, with topropes on Black is Brown, Uncle Fanny, Church Bowl Lieback, Pole Position, and Revival. Sam and Justin led Bishop's Terrace, and Darko led Pole Position and Tammy Fae.
    September 2005
    September 28 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    8 people attended - Justin, Lindsay, James, Clint, Sam, Lukasz, and Patrick.
    We had 7 ropes set up.
    Conditions: very nice; getting dark sooner.
    September 17-18 (or 17-20) informal trip to the Needles (Sequoia N.F.)
    Alexander, Marshall, Polly, and Andrea went for the weekend, while Clint, Chris Gurr, Steph Greene and Etienne went for all four days.
    Alexander's photos
    Needles climbing info
    September 14 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    8 people attended - Ben, Naja, Chris, Clint, Paul, Aaron, Alice, and Andy.
    We had 7 ropes set up.
    Conditions: rather cool; getting dark sooner.
    September 7 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    7 people attended - Björn, Clint, Etienne, Sam, Lukasz, Patrick, and Alice.
    We had 7 ropes set up.
    Conditions: perfect temps - nice to have it cooler again.
    September 3-4 (Saturday-Sunday) SAC campsite in Tuolumne Organise by Matt. (Space for 6 people).
    August 2005
    August 31 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    16 people attended - Björn, Katya, Dan, Clint, Paul, Sam, Jesse, Lukasz, Ben, Naja, Lene, Tom, Alice, Andy, and 2 climbers to be named later.
    We had 9 ropes set up.
    Conditions: fairly hot again
    August 24 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    26 people attended - Natalie, Dan, David, Paul, Clint, Niloy, Mark, Ren, Jesse, Jamie, Lukasz, Alfred, Larry, Karen, Christiana, John, Emily, Michael, Chris, Ben, Naja, Heather, Totte, Matt, Thijs, and Melanie.
    We had 9 ropes set up.
    Conditions: nice and cool, finally!
    August 20 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Tuolumne Contact Matt to reserve a spot. (Space for 6 people).
    August 3 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    19 people attended -
  • [SAC] - Michael, Alfred, Clint, Sam, Lukasz, Patrick, Jesse, Karen, John, Emily, Andy
  • [neighbors!] - Alice, Joan, Catherine, Linda, Anne, Jim, Kara (age 6?), Connor (age 1+?)
    We had 9 ropes set up.
    Conditions: the fairly hot temps continue, but there was a breeze.
  • July 2005
    July 27 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    13 people attended - Tom, Björn, Clint, Alfred, Sam, Koushik, Lukasz, Patrick, Alice, Karen, Paula, Andy and Chris. We had 8 ropes set up; many sandstone moves were made.
    Conditions: a little hot; perhaps slightly cooler than last time.
    July 20 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    12 people attended - Barbara, Clint, Sam, Natalie, Jamen, Ekin, Alfred, Ryan, Niloy, Ben, Naja, and Alice. We had 8 ropes set up, and all got a good workout.
    Conditions: somewhat hot, but at least cooler than last time.
    photos by Alfred
    July l3 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    10 people attended - Aaron, Sam, Clint, Alfred, Ekin, Rex, Minnie, Karen, Alice and Andy. We had 7 ropes set up, and many routes were cranked.
    Conditions: pretty hot and nearly still - hoping for cooler temps next time.
    photos by Alfred
    June 2005
    June 29 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Clint.
    Carpooled from Tresidder at 5pm.
    18 people and 1 dog attended - Rex, Annie, Björn, AJ, Clint, Arthur, Jesse, Jamen, Sebastian, Ben, Naja, Tom, Erika, Michele, Natalie, Bryan, Claire, one climber to be named later, and the red setter Erika is dogsitting. We had 9 ropes set up, and many routes were cranked.
    Conditions: hot and still, even a few mosquitoes after sunset.
    photo enlarged/cropped photo by Ms. Di Pilla
    June 27 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Johan Hvenmark - Climbing in Scandinavia
    My idea is to demonstrate parts of the absolute remarkable and sometimes majestic climbing opportunities that can be found in Scandinavia, which I figure, is a white spot on the map for most SAC members. The slideshow does not contain a coherent story of some single climbing event, but a whole bunch of impressions, memories and experiences that I have accumulated roaming around large parts of what both Sweden and Norway has to offer in terms in climbing during the last 18 something years. So, what can be expected on Monday? Well, first of all a close encounter with some spectacular climbing environments, but, also with the nice, friendly, and, in some senses, different atmosphere that surrounds the climbing scene in this part of the world. And, the underlying message that I would like to send is that Scandinavia should in fact be included in everyone's list on places to visit whenever climbing is involved.
    Location: Clark Center room S360 (3rd floor), entrance through Peet's Coffee, or door to E of Peet's. Parking in lot to W.
    June 24 (Friday) 9am-4pm informal trip to Castle or Summit Rock Organised by Darko.
    June 22 (Wednesday) 5pm-dark informal trip to Handley Rock Organised by Karen and Clint.
    Carpool from Tresidder at 5pm, or from the Park 'N Ride lot at 280 x Edgewood (east side of 280) at 5:30.
    Handley Rock is a 35' sandstone rock in NW Redwood City, with several toprope routes in the 5.10 range, plus a few 5.6-5.9 and some 5.11s.
    On June 22, 12 people (Karen, Paula, Aura, Clint, Sam, Sebastian, Ben, Marian, Cathy, John, Phil) attended, and we had 7 ropes set up, so everybody got lots of climbs in.
    Conditions: breezy and cool
    June 21 (Tuesday) 9am-4pm informal trip to Indian Rock Organised by Darko.
    Indian Rock is just across the road from Castle Rock.
    June 18-20 informal trip to the Needles Alexander, Erika, Clint, et al. Trip Photos - Alexander
    June 11 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite Contact Matt to reserve a spot. (Still space for 4 people, as of Matt's last email).
    June 1 Chuck summited on Denali!
    Chuck on top of Denali
    Go Chuck!!
    Chuck and his partner Ryan left on May 13, bagged the summit and were flying out by June 3! Should be a cool slideshow this fall.
    photos
    May 2005
    May 29 (Sunday) - Memorial Day Weekend SAC campsite in Yosemite Contact Matt to reserve a spot. (Still space for 4 people, as of Matt's last email).
    May 25 (Wednesday), 7:00pm Mike Gauthier slideshow / book tour at REI Saratoga
    A long descent - by Mike Gauthier
    Mike Gauthier, head climbing ranger at Mt. Rainier, is doing a tour to promote the second edition of his climbing guidebook to Mt. Rainier. LA Times article
    May 23 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Bryan Palmintier - Tramping and such on the South Island of New Zealand
    Mitre Peak, Milford Sound, Fiordland NP

    After getting "off the ice" (back from Antarctica) in January, I spent 2 months traveling around the South Island of New Zealand. For the first 5 weeks, I reunited with Michele for some stellar tramping (Kiwi for backpacking) in Arthur's Pass, Mt. Aspiring, and Fiordland National Parks. Along the way we got in a bit of mountaineering, biking, sea kayaking and more. Then my mom came down for 2 weeks including sea kayaking the Marlborough Sounds and more tramping in the Northern Parts of the South Island.
    Come enjoy pictures of the scenery and fun of the Southern Alps, the lush rainforests, and the spectacular costal waters.
    May 22 (Sunday) Intro class, at Castle/Goat Rock Leader: Matt Farrell.
    Instructors: Erika, Arthur.
    map See the classes page for more info.
    May 21-22 Lead Climbing class (2nd weekend) Leader: Dave Weaver.
    Instructors: Dave, Polly, Marshall, Jared, Clint.
    Location: Lover's Leap.
    photos from the trip
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 19 Lead Climbing, 2nd classroom session Leader: Dave Weaver. See the classes page for more info.
    May 16 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Three Stooges Expedition on the Salathe' Wall
    Bryan Palmintier on the Salathe' headwall, El Capitan - photo by cpbl [not the 3 Stooges trip]
    Our team - Moe [Clint], Curly [Dennis], and Larry [John]
    In mid-May a "few" years back, I reunited with a couple of my old climbing partners ( John and Dennis), taking advantage of my recent move to California. We just had to check out "the greatest rock-climbing route in the world." It was also to be John's bachelor party. The scene was set for a classic. Along the way we discovered the essence of the 3-man climbing team: "two people climb, and the third plays with gear!" Come and see what else we found along the way.
    May 14 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite Contact Matt to reserve a spot.
    May 9 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Matt Farrell - Two Months in Patagonia "This past winter quarter I had the awesome opportunity to spend two months in Patagonia while taking some time off from classes. Since I am a poor undergrad, I couldn't afford lavish accommodations and luxury travel, so instead of riding busses and staying in hotels, I spent the two months hitchhiking and sleeping in campgrounds and fields.

    It took me a month and a half to cover the 3500km of Patagonia, from the town of Ushuaia, (the southernmost city in the world at the southern tip of Tierra Del Fuego), to the city of Puerto Montt (at the northern limit of the fjords). I then spent two weeks in Puerto Montt before hitching the remaining 1500km to Santiago, Chile All told I got about 110 rides during the two months and covered 5000km without taking a single bus. Some of the highlights I will be showing pictures of are penguins and the island of Tierra Del Fuego, Glaciers in Argentina and Fitz Roy, and fjords and temperate rainforests in Chile. And of course I will tell stories about some of the crazy people I met and the adventures I had.

    May 7-8 Lead Climbing class (1st weekend) Leader: Chuck (organized by Clint).
    Instructors: Jared, Chuck, Clint, Ian.
    Location: Tollhouse Rock.
    photos from the trip
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 5 Lead Climbing, 1st classroom session, 7-9pm Leader: Dave Weaver.
    Building 320 (Geo Corner), Room 109
    The last part of the time period will be an organizational meeting for the May 7-8 trip.
    See the classes page for more info.
    May 2 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Bryan Palmintier - Antarctica: Living, working, and adventuring
    Adele penguin

    From Aug 2004 - Jan 2005, Bryan worked with a fish research group at McMurdo Station, Antarctica. As a result he spent most of his time fishing, drilling holes through the ice (up to 80ft thick!), and running scientific instruments. However, he made a point to have some outdoor fun, too, including ski trips, camping, hikes, a bit of mountaineering, and even biking.
    Come share a glimpse of antarctic life: the fantastic scenery, fun adventures, crazy things people will do for science, and learn a bit about why fish don't freeze in the -2C waters.
    Oh, and yes, there will be penguins! (and helicopters, and snow, and crazy tracked vehicles, and other people scuba diving, and....)
    April 2005
    April 30 (Saturday) SAC campsite in Yosemite Contact Chuck to reserve a spot. (Space for 6 people + 2 cars).
    April 28 (Thursday), 8:00pm David H. Liu Memorial Lecture Series - Amelia Rudolph - Project Bandaloop
    Amelia Rudolph
    Amelia Rudolph is an artist/athlete/climber, who founded Project Bandaloop in 1991. For more information and map/directions, see http://www.stanford.edu/group/liu_lectures/
    April 25 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Igor Landau - Sierra Nevada on skis
    After X-Mass 2004 a friend and I have crossed Sierra Nevada on skis traveling from Mono Lake to Yosemite Valley. Circumstances and conditions have turned this into a 5 day trip but the views were well worth it. Come see for yourself.
    A bonus feature: over the past weekend, a few friends and I have traveled on skis into Lassen Volcanic National Park to explore its thermal feature in the winter and indulge in its natural hot springs.
    Location: Cypress North, Tresidder map
    April 22-24 Mountaineering class at Mt. Shasta Leader: Chuck Booten. See the classes page for more info.
    maps + links
    Alfred's photos from the trip: Shasta Handley Rock
    April 20 (Wednesday), 4-5pm Mountaineering class - prusiking practice at Climbing Wall [pick either the Monday or Wednesday session]
    Leader: Chuck Booten. See the classes page for more info.
    April 18 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Chuck Booten - Cascade Volcanoes
    Mt. Rainier
    Over the last couple years I've climbed several of the Cascade volcanoes. I'll be showing pictures from my trips up Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. Shasta and Mt. Rainier. The routes I took weren't always very technical, but these mountains are big, fairly accessible and lots of fun!
    Location: Cypress North, Tresidder 2nd floor
    April 17 (Sunday) Intro class, at Castle/Goat Rock Leader: Niloy Mitra.
    map
    Goat Rock topo/route guide
    photos from the trip
    See the classes page for more info.
    April 16-17 (Saturday) Anchors I class, at Castle Rock Leader: Joe Cackler. See the classes page for more info.
    April 16 (Saturday) Informal trip to Yosemite (Knob Hill, Church Bowl) Partly a make-up trip for the second day of the October Yosemite trip that was rained out. But everyone is invited. who went
    photos from the trip
    April 9-10 Mountaineering class at Carson Pass Leader: Chuck Booten. Self-arrest, glacier travel, etc. See the classes page for more info.
    Alfred's photos from the trip
    April 4 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Teddi Boston - Pacific Crest Trail - First Woman's Solo (N to S) I was the first woman to solo the trail and walk from Canada to Mexico - most hikers start in Mexico and go north to Canada. (They don't know they are going uphill)  Three reasons for starting in the north - 1. If you go from the top of the map to the bottom you are going downhill - actually I wanted to take the far north the unknown while I was still fresh. 2. Every step I took was a step closer to home.  3.  I would rather meet weak spring blizzards than fierce fall ones."
    March 2005
    March 19-28 Spring Break - Indian Creek (informal trip)
    Polly on Mantle Illness

    Indian Creek (informal trip).
    Who's going? Jared Brown, Clint Cummins, Johan Hvenmark, Marshall, Polly, et al. Alexander Cooper can't make it this time. Contact Jared to coordinate.
    March 11 (Friday), 3:15pm Seminar - Tim Bretl - Rock Climbing Robots
    Lemur
    Tim Bretl, a graduate student in Computer Science will be presenting a talk (and maybe a demo) of LEMUR - a robot that can "climb." It should be pretty cool.

    Location: Thornton 102 (near the Terman pond) Time : 3:15pm

    LEMUR IIb: A Free-Climbing Robot

    My work has been motivated by an interesting physical challenge: to enable a large multi-limbed robot to free-climb vertical rock. Free-climbers rely on natural features and friction (like holes or protrusions) in the terrain, rather than special fixtures or tools. This is not easy -- it requires a lot of coordination and a good sense of balance. Consequently, my own research has focused on the problem of motion planning. Validation with real hardware has been done with a new, four-limbed, free-climbing robot called LEMUR IIb (developed by the Mechanical and Robotic Technologies Group at NASA-JPL). These experiments have raised a number of issues (e.g., sensing, control, hardware design) to be addressed in future work.

    March 9 (Wednesday), 8:00pm Hans Florine Slideshow
    Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama
    Hans Florine, noted speed climber will present a slideshow. He'll cover recent and past speed records on the Nose of El Capitan!
    $5 suggested donation at the door.
    road map campus map
    At the slideshow, there will be giveaways from our sponsors:
    March 5-6 Telemark skiiing - backcountry workshop, at Kirkwood and nearby See the classes page for more info.
    March 3 (Thursday), 7-9pm Telemark skiiing classroom session Avalance safety class. Open to all, and free. Details on class. See the classes page for more info. Location TBA
    February 2005
    February 28 (Monday), 7:30pm Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Judd Bruzgul - Traversing the White Clouds of Idaho
    White Cloud Mountains
    In summer 2003 and again in 2004, a crazy Idaho local and I attempted to traverse the 11 peaks over 11,000ft in the White Cloud Range of central Idaho in a relatively fast push. I'll be showing slides of the incredible, remote terrain and spectacularly bad rock. I'll also talk about some of the challenges we faced (weather, rock, route finding, gut infections, the fact that there aren't 11 high peaks, etc). Come hear and see a fun show about a little known range right here in the lower 48.
    February 23 (Wednesday), 7-10pm Climbing Comp with Santa Clara Univ. at the Stanford Climbing Wall.
    February 14 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Brian Gabele - Trekking in the Himalayas I will show the differences between trekking in the Solu Kumbu region (where mount Everest is) and the remote western part of the country (where there is not a tourist to be found). There will be some great pictures of the Himalayas, and a decent share of cultural information.
    February 7 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Hal Tompkins - Technical Canyoneering in Utah's San Rafael Swell
    Canyoneering in the slot canyons of the Colorado Plateau is much like rock climbing except that you usually go down rather than up. Face climbing ability and good chimney technique are paramount. Anchor-building skills often involve sand. Escaping "keeper potholes" also requires sand.

    Fortunately there is no shortage in Utah. And then there's always some very cold water. Come see how it's done.

    January 2005
    January 31 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Remus Koos - South America Highlights Slideshow: Chile, Argentina and Bolivia Horseback ride in the Atacama Desert, drive through the biggest salt flat in the world and cruise through the Chilean fjords. Go all the way to the end of the South American Continent, visit Perito Moreno, one of the few active glaciers in the world and the beautiful Argentinean lakes area around San Carlos de Bariloche. Head towards Buenos Aires, experience a tango show and then visit the magnificent Iguasu Falls.
    January 24 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Ryan Ernst - Thailand Limestone + the Tsunami
    Ton Sai and Railay beaches, photo by Amy Jordan
    A buddy from Jackson and I spent a month in Thailand climbing - a week or so up north in Chiang Mai, then a couple weeks down in Railay, which is in southern Thailand. Railay is a world class climbing destination, with tons of overhanging limestone sport climbs right on the beach. We were standing on this beach and watched the tsunami come in and mess up the place - so I'll probably talk a little about that, but I'd rather focus on the climbing aspect. We got some pretty good shots (we hired a photographer in Chiang Mai and we spent all day shooting) and some interesting stuff from the tsunami.
    January 10 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Emily Desmarais - Mt. Erebus Volcano Observatory (MEVO)
    Mt. Erebus
    As part of the Mount Erebus Volcano Observatory (for MEVO project information, see http://www.ees.nmt.edu/Geop/mevo/mevo.html) 2001-2002 field party, I spent six weeks in Antarctica camping near the summit of Mt. Erebus Volcano. While there, we collected geological, geophysical, and geochemical data to study the dynamics, hazards and history of Mt. Erebus. During the trip we encountered the excitement of glaciers, high altitudes, and inclement weather.
    November 2004
    November 22 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Claudio Seebach - Cordillera Blanca del Peru -- The Peruvian Alps
    Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca del Peru
    Did you ever wonder where those amazing mountains of Joe Simpson's "Touching the void" are and how to get there (and safely back) ?

    Come and see the slides of our three week trip to the "Cordillera Blanca" in Peru, where we climbed four beautiful ice covered summits, alpine style, and with almost perfect weather. We summited Ishinca, Artesonraju, Tocllaraju and the well known Alpamayo, all around 6,000m (+ 18,000 ft). This amazing mountain range is only 10 degrees south of the equator, but still enjoys some of the most amazing glaciers and steep ice and granite walls, only similar to those in the Himalayas or Patagonia. A few hours flight from Los Angeles (or Santiago, in our case) to Lima and a longer bus ride to Huaraz, the Kathmandu of Latin America, and you are right beneath the mountains.

    November 10 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Steve Schneider - "Driven Crazy" - A Solo Traverse of the Towers del Paine (Room 200-002)
    Torres del Paine, Patagonia
    The first traverse of the Torres del Paine, done solo. Plus - free ascents of El Nino and Golden Gate on El Capitan, and Project Bandaloop performing in New York!
    Steve is a long time Yosemite climber, with the first one-day solo ascent of the Nose, 3 El Cap routes in a day, and the second ascents of the Bachar-Yerian and Body and Soul to his credit. He has also free climbed (or nearly freed) several routes on El Capitan, including Lurking Fear, West Buttress, Excalibur, Golden Gate, and El Nino, plus the Direct NW Face of Half Dome.
    $5 suggested donation at the door.
    road map campus map
    Our sponsors:
    • Blonde Ambition Guiding Steve Schneider
    • Planet Granite
      The first 75 peeps to show are going to get a free belay lesson / gear rental pass for Planet Granite that you can either use or use to get that 'special someone' of yours into climbing ($29 value).
    • Touchstone San Jose
      We'll give away 30 free day passes to San Jose Bouldering (~$10 value) and month long passes.
    • Twisters Gym
      We'll raffle 7 month long training sessions with 'Crazy Super Strong Phil' at Twisters, and 3 3-month memberships. If you haven't checked out their big rebuilt bouldering cave on the second floor, you should - it makes Jailhouse look like a slab!
    • Rock & Ice magazine
      We'll raffle off 1 subscription to Rock and Ice. Also, give away some copies of the recent Rock and Ice, discount coupons.
    • Climbing magazine
      120 issues of this month's Climbing; 3 mini-day by day calendars.
    • SuperTopo
      Guidebooks, naturally.
    November 8 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Kenny Gillingham - Climbing in the Cathedral Lakes area of the Cascades
    Cathedral Peak, Pasayten Wilderness
    The peaks of the Cathedral Lakes area cross over seamlessly from Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park and the Pasayten Wilderness and the border region is probably one of the most remote climbing areas in the lower 50. Don't expect any 5 minute walks from the road. This is true backcountry alpine climbing, with the requisite 20 mile or so approach.
    My friend Tim and I spent a good 8 days this September exploring this pristine wilderness and partaking in the excellent clean rock. We found an abundance of amazing alpine ridge traverses and some great multi-pitch climbs. The trip culminated with a climb of Cathedral Peak, which towers over the area. And we had the joy of crossing the border several times (just don't tell the border control). Come and see what this remote place is all about.
    November 1 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jared Brown - Summer Adventures around Durango
    Lizard's Head, 13,113'
    Alpine climbs of Hallet's Peak in Rocky Mountain NP and Lizard Head. Also backpacking and peak bagging in the Durango Area.
    There are numerous possibilities for backcountry trips in the Durango area, from short day climbs and hikes up peaks to long backpacking trips and long backpacking trips with peak climbing. The climbing also can range from class five on super clean rock to scrambling through loose rock to class five on loose rock. I was able to experience all of this last summer, with thunderstorms, snow, rock fall, and stowaway marmots mixed in. Come to see pictures and hear stories of great climbs mixed with a bit of the abnormal culture of my friends and I back home.
    October 2004
    October 25 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Clint Cummins - Elephant's Perch - Sawtooths, Idaho
    Elephant's Perch, Sawtooths, Idaho - photo by Brad Brandewie
    Check out the classic climbs at Elephant's Perch, in the Sawtooths of Idaho. 10 pitches each, on beautiful golden granite! My partner, Hal Tompkins, said that the climbing there was "the finest backcountry rock climbing in his experience"! And I'd have to agree.
    October 18 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Chuck Booten - Antarctica Three years ago I had the good fortune of landing a research job in Antarctica. I was there for about 6 weeks in the middle of the Antarctic winter. I was on a research vessel so I got to see more a lot more of the continent than most people who go there. I didn't have the chance to do any climbing, but I did get to see one of the most isolated, harsh and beautiful places in the world. It was truly a once in a lifetime experience and is really unlike anywhere else in the world. So stop by, I'd love to tell you all about it!
    October 11 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Jacquie Pratt - Aconcagua, FitzRoy, and Torres del Paine
    First view of Aconcagua
    Jacquie Pratt will show photos from her 2 week summit expedition up Aconcagua in Argentina. At 22,841 ft, it is the highest mountain in the Americas and the second highest of the Seven Summits. Come hear about her Touching-the-Void experience and what 7000m altitude will do to people's minds.

    There will also be a few photos of backpacking in the Fitz Roy range, Torres del Paine, and the Iguazu Falls, which are pretty darn stunning.

    August 2004
    "August" is [still, really!] Meadows season...
    Grabbing the "Condor's Head" on El Condor
    May 2004
    May 24 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Claudio Seebach - Summer and Winter in Patagonia: Climbing Mount San Lorenzo and Cerro Castillo and Trekking in winter in Torres del Paine N.P. This slide show will be about a three week two man expedition to climb the second highest peak of Patagonia, Cerro San Lorenzo (3.750m ^Ö 12,300 feet). This mountain, halfway between the Northern and Southern patagonian icefields, has only seen a dozen ascents since first being climbed in 1945 by the italian priest and explorer Alberto de Agostini. On the same trip, we also climbed Cerro Castillo, a fascinating peak, which actually looks very much like a castle.

    A few months later, we intented to do a backcountry skiing tour around Torres del Paine National Park in mid-winter. We only encountered good weather, little snow, frozen lakes, permafrost, and wonderful scenery without any other tourists.

    May 10 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Bryan Palmintier and Dave Kroodsma - Skiing the Sierra High Route - Spring Break '04 All the slides will be from our trip with Rob Becker and Kevin Hand this spring break skiing/ski mountaineering the "Sierra High Route" trans-sierra traverse from Shepard's Pass on the East (next trail North of Whitney) to Lodgepole on the West (by the Giant Forest), basically following the Northern Boundary of Sequoia NP. The views, terrain, camaraderie, and of course skiing were fantastic!
    April 2004
    April 26 Sierra Nevada Slideshow Series - Bryan Palmintier - Summer travels in Alaska Come see Bryan's slides from a summer in Alaska. Backpacking in Denali NP, the Chugash, and the Brooks range, plus glacier travel in the Wrangells, and a bit of road trip stories, sights along the way, and more.