February 2004 Fusing

(click on photos for larger versions)

Egg & Star Pendants

Composition:

Star: S96 clear. amber, white with dichroic shards. 3 1/2 layers.  Curved fiber paper between layers allows for stringing.
Egg: S96 clear; blue/green, red/orange dichroic. 3 layers.

One of the bits of dichro wandered in the star as the cap glass melted over it. Maybe should have glued it down.


Dichroic Necklace

Composition: (3/4" circles & 1.5" ellipses)

Sawed down the middle of each bead of 2nd layer from bottom to make room for fiber paper for the bead holes.

I also found that LimeAway is perfect for removing stuck-on kiln wash. Dead easy. Got that from the Warm Glass bulletin board.


Borax Bubbles Test

I read that Borax is a more controllable alternative to baking soda for inserting bubbles. I got a box of 20 Mule Team borax.

This is from test 1. It gives fine bubbles for a relatively dense application of borax. Nice! The other tests gave almost imperceptible bubbles.So, I expect baking soda is still needed for BIG bubbles.


Triangles Necklace

Composition: (1" triangles & 1.5" rectangle)

Sawed down the middle of each 2nd layer from bottom to make room for fiber paper for the holes.

 


Penta Pendant

This was done in an EvenHeat Hot Box (borrowed from Stained Glass Images).

Composition: (2")

Top layer was resting on red & frit, and on the fiber paper.

Fusing schedule was a rapid fuse on settings 4 & 5 up to 1550F. Then turned off.


Red & White Cereal Bowl

Composition: (8 1/8")

Standard firing to 1500F. Note that clear dichroic on white is not too exciting. Standard slump.


Circles Fluted Bowl

Composition: (12")

Standard fuse to 1500F. Standard slump.

 


Fluted Vase

I'm testing using fiber board to create my own moulds. I soaked a piece of fiber board in rigidizer and (eventually) fired it to 1300F. It came out rigid enough to easily sand and carve. I carved out slots with a chisel. Then kiln wash.

The fluted vase is two clear layers of S96 with circle segments in red, yellow and blue in between the clear. Then clear shards on top with a few yellow stringers.

I slumped the vase at 1400F. It flowed very quickly as it reached 1400! The channels are well-defined on the bottom of the rim, and are smoother on top. It looks floral. The mould seems to have survived perfectly!


Last modified: 02/29/04 18:44:48 -0800