(click on photos for larger versions)
Composition:
Star: S96 clear. amber, white with dichroic shards. 3 1/2 layers. Curved fiber paper between layers allows for stringing.
Egg: S96 clear; blue/green, red/orange dichroic. 3 layers.
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One of the bits of dichro wandered in the star as the cap glass melted over it. Maybe should have glued it down.
Composition: (3/4" circles & 1.5" ellipses)
S96 clear and blue/green and red/orange dichroic
bottom to top: clear, clear, dichroic, clear
Sawed down the middle of each bead of 2nd layer from bottom to make room for fiber paper for the bead holes.
I also found that LimeAway is perfect for removing stuck-on kiln wash. Dead easy. Got that from the Warm Glass bulletin board.
I read that Borax is a more controllable alternative to baking soda for inserting bubbles. I got a box of 20 Mule Team borax.
This is from test 1. It gives fine bubbles for a relatively dense application of borax. Nice! The other tests gave almost imperceptible bubbles.So, I expect baking soda is still needed for BIG bubbles.
Composition: (1" triangles & 1.5" rectangle)
S96 clear, red and blue/green and clear dichroic
bottom to top: clear, , red, clear - dichroic-side down,
Sawed down the middle of each 2nd layer from bottom to make room for fiber paper for the holes.
the center piece was a bit big, and the triangles did not lie properly. So I tried another center piece
This was done in an EvenHeat Hot Box (borrowed from Stained Glass Images).
Composition: (2")
Top layer was resting on red & frit, and on the fiber paper.
Fusing schedule was a rapid fuse on settings 4 & 5 up to 1550F. Then turned off.
Composition: (8 1/8")
Standard firing to 1500F. Note that clear dichroic on white is not too exciting. Standard slump.
Composition: (12")
Standard fuse to 1500F. Standard slump.
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I'm testing using fiber board to create my own moulds. I soaked a piece of fiber board in rigidizer and (eventually) fired it to 1300F. It came out rigid enough to easily sand and carve. I carved out slots with a chisel. Then kiln wash.
The fluted vase is two clear layers of S96 with circle segments in red, yellow and blue in between the clear. Then clear shards on top with a few yellow stringers.
I slumped the vase at 1400F. It flowed very quickly as it reached 1400! The channels are well-defined on the bottom of the rim, and are smoother on top. It looks floral. The mould seems to have survived perfectly!
Last modified: 02/29/04 18:44:48 -0800